1st Airhead Questions...

[Wrigsby1]

After quite a bit of BM experience and quite a few posts on the 1100 section I sold my GS last year... Missing having a boxer I bought a 95 R80RT via a couple of guys on here and it's a good bike for tinkering fixing bits...

Being a bit of an anarchist i am going to keep it standard

I have given the carbs a good look over/clean and reset valve clearances etc balanced everything and will need to change the clutch at some point... I may change some bits in the carbs but they are solid enough for now...

When the bike warms up the revs start hanging at 2k ish and only drop down if I turn the headlight on... When cold thing seem fine... As it changes with the headlight on it is likely electrical but i have no experience of Airhead electrics so would like some pointers from you guys with all the thousands of years of collective experience

Also the forks are slooowww to return and I suspect the springs are "tired" Aren't we all... But I changed a seal and put in 10w which might be too heavy and 5w might be better...

PS My other bike's a 1000 V-Strom which is probably one of the great underrated Adv Tourers...

Then I will fxxk it up and streetfighter/cafe racer/bobber/clobber it etc

 

[Kenny]

Keeping it standard



Re the tickover....nothing to do with the electrics btw.........you must ensure the cable inners are free and have 2 - 3 mm of free play at the carb adjuster, that should sort it

 

[Wrigsby1]

Keeping it standard



Re the tickover....nothing to do with the electrics btw.........you must ensure the cable inners are free and have 2 - 3 mm of free play at the carb adjuster, that should sort it

Arf... Bit of a laugh but everyone is cutting/chopping RT's so I might save one for posterity... Luckily I can't weld

Thought i had some free play but will deffo check as i expect it can change with heat... Also why does it drop with the headlights on... I have had a good check for air leaks but was going to get some seals etc for the carbs at some point...

 

[Kenny]

Is your battery ( achiles heel on airheads ) in good and I mean, good, condition?

 

[desmo2]

kenny , please ellaborate . I posted on the forum a few days ago re. batteries and potential starting problems. I had a few replies , none of them indicating any starting difficulties , which is what I was interested in . Maybe I didn't make myself clear enough ? So , what starting problems do BM's have ? Thanks in advance , Mike

 

[Rob Farmer]

The majority if starting problems are down to the starter motors themselves, starter relays and general wiring issues. If these are all good you shouldn't really have a problem. If the starter motors isn't too good then the already high starting currents will get even higher reducing the already quite short cranking capacities of the batteries.

I've never measured it but I've seen starting currents of 130 amps quoted for the starting currents of Bosch starter motors. I have measured the current if the starter solonoid, these draw around 30amps in their own so the 130 figure is believable.

If your battery isn't a1 you're not going to be able to run high current draws for long.

 

[Wrigsby1]

Is your battery ( achiles heel on airheads ) in good and I mean, good, condition?

Will give it a close check... It's not done much lately but gets an Optimate charge now and again... Seems to hold it's charge pretty well for longer periods but as with most battery things, you only find out with regular use... Which might be the story with the whole bike...

Cheers

 

[desmo2]

Rob , what rating is the std. starter rely ? I'll be doing a new loom shortly . Thanks , Mike

 

[SJRoome]

Hi

Tickover too high when warm is usually the advance/retard mechanism sticking.

If you put the headlight on you are drawing much more electrical current putting more load on the alternator which is consequently harder to turn - slowing the engine.

Steve

 

[Kenny]

Hi

If you put the headlight on you are drawing much more electrical current putting more load on the alternator which is consequently harder to turn - slowing the engine.

Steve

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