20,000 miles on a GS

Nordkapper

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Hi All, I’ve been a reader of this site for about 2 years and have just got my arse in gear to subscribe, specifically because I’d like to put something back in……..
Have owned an R1200GS since early 2005 and have been through the same trials / tribulations /sheer riding fun along with all the other contributors.

Major issues:

Front wheel finish bubbling – wheel replaced (approx 100 miles)
Slave clutch cylinder oil leak – cylinder replaced (within first 5,000 miles)
Bevel box oil leak – bevel box replaced (within first 8,000 miles)
Oil leak between engine / gearbox – new gearbox seals and clutch (18,000 miles)
Nearside pannier not closing properly – replaced (14,000 miles)
Gear change potentiometer (was giving intermittent trouble in 6th gear showing combinations of blank, neutral , first and sixth) – replaced (18,000 miles).

Rear brakes trashed at only 3,000 miles on recent tour!! Fitted by dealer just before I left and started to score disc in middle of Norway, major balls-ache and had to park up / camp to wait for replacements in Norweigan post, plus pads alone cost 90 quid!! Most annoying was my mate who followed me mile after mile on his Honda Varadero had 3,000 miles before the trip and his original disks are still going strong now. BMW rear pads aren’t sintered like the front pads, but still this problem didn’t happen with first set of rear pads. ***Has anyone else experienced this? *** Duff pads? (I’ve read the adv forum on keeping the pins clean, harder to keep up with on a 3 week tour.) BMW assistance were very helpful, although front pads were ordered in error, thankfully I found out in time to correct.

Minor issues (but still replaced under warranty):

Plastic front screen mounts – threads chewed and pin holes going to powder.
Grey plastic windscreen supports on sides, finish is being chewed by plastic locking mechanisms.
Nearside rocker cover being marked by rubber backing on black cylinder guard.
Paint falling off centre stand
Engine mounting bolts are going rusty.
W clips on tank overflow pipes fall apart.

Other issues:

LCD display looks slightly darker in places in certain daylight lighting conditions (bright sun), not sure if this is going to get worse – ***anyone experience this?***
Rear indicators had moved back (have two positions like on a trial bike) and were marking the panniers.
Alloy tank side panels scratch easily.
Plastic oil cap is hard to undo with tool as contact points slip, needed to use tent-peg mallet with tool to drift open.

Had H7 headlight bulb blow, after replacing it, the display kept on showing original fault message, swapped with other H7 bulb and swore a lot. Fault message only cleared after restarting engine.

So my two questions:
Has anyone trashed the rear pads at only 3,000 miles?
Does anyone see a faint brown darkening of the LCD display over about ¾ of its area in certain daylight lighting conditions?

Must emphasise how great the bike is to ride, slightly nervous though about after the warranty expiry date.
 
My pads would go regularly between 3 - 4k. The rear tyre would last longer. Obviously depends on the riding you're doing. The positive is that the front don't seem to wear. Just keep your eye on the disc. I blagged a new rear disk at 18k as it was at minimum thickness.

I think there area some heat / sunlight issues with the LCD - some of the guys from Oz seem to know more about it. Try a search.
 
Some of your "minor issues" I wouldn't even bother troubling the dealer with

Paint falling off centre stand

Buy some hammerite


Engine mounting bolts are going rusty.
See above


Cleaning helps to stop finish deteriorating, you know :nenau

On a serious note, there are obvious recurring "themes" - mine was gearboxes and topboxes.

You've had similar issues, I see....


Given you obvious attention to detail, feel free to let us keep us up to date with where we can expect ours to fall to bits too
 
LCD panel going dark in bright sun is not a fault - its a characteristic of all LCD panels. Some are better than others and do it at a higher temp. And they always revert when cooler.

Rear brake deffo shouldnt go in 3000 miles. Suggests it wasnt releasing properly, maybe down to dirt in the caliper pivots or even a new larger pair of boots meaning you were riding the brake. Given that both the disk and pad are mass manufactured and there will be thousands like them, its unlikely that you got just one rogue component. More likely that the back brake which is subject to crud on any bike has partly seized on
 


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