2003 1150GS - Need help on removing Servos and ABS

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RidingTheGlobe

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Hello,
So before everyone tells me that this has been posted 100 times and then following up with their opinions on how shite this system is, I will say yes and yes I agree with you.

So my bike is 2003 1150 GS and I would like to remove the whole servo unit / ABS unit and just put in some steel braided brake lines directly from the master cylinder to the calipers. Is it that simple???

What about the brake lights, one post said I have to worry about 23 wires. Could someone elaborate, maybe if someone made a wiring diagram that would be really helpful.

Well I really appreciate any help you guys could offer.
If you want to email me directly please do!!!!

josh at ridingtheglobe dot com

Thanks Again,
Josh
 
Get the "non abs distribution piece" from your local supplier.

Get some non abs microswitches for front / rear.

All detailed here:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47270

delpel said:
I did it and it's a piece of piss.

Firstly - take all the servo crap of the bike and sell it on ebay.

Secondly - purchase a distribution piece bmw part number 34327650965 and connect the line coming from the master cylinder to the line going to the front brake calipers. Leave the flexible lines in place just connect them together.

Thirdly - connect the rear brake line to the rear master cylinder. It fits straight on.

Thats the the brake hydraulics sorted now for the brake light electrics. Believe it or not this is the complicated bit.

On the Servo/ABS model the brake light switches are arse about face. They are normally closed and the switch contacts open when you pull/press the lever. The servo senses this and does it's stuff.

You need to replace both switches with Non-Servo/ABS ones. These switch contacts are normally open. You pull/press the lever and they close and apply 12volts to the brakes.

So you need to hack into the wiring and find the 12v wire coming from Fuse 1, route this to the switches and on to the brake light bulb.

I have posted on this topic before on the US adventure and here on this site.

Drop me a line if you need any help or more info.
Click to expand...

From here http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106754
 
Those instructions above aren't quite what they seem :augie i wouldn't just point anyone in their direction assuming their of any nuse . I wonder if the guy actually did it this himself or had it done for him, or is just assuming that the brake lights would work as he's posted. I mean, it's just simple brake lights, isn't it. :D
 
jonnie comet said:
I believe that Motorworks or Motobins, do a kit, with everything that you need, to remove the ABS from your 'bike......HTH....:)
Click to expand...


Not just the ABS - It's the servo/abs system. I read of the kits costing £200 :nenau Seems a lot for two brake switches and a front U piece adaptor :augie

And if it's just the ABS model of bike, you just need a front U piece.
 
Yes there are 23 wires - i've sat for half a day and traced and checked the function of each and every one of them.
And now for your benefit i'll let you have all the knowledge that you need to do the job for no cost and no effort to your good self. And bear in mind that anything you read on your USA websites, is for some reason always made much more complicated than is necessary.

Rear light wiring - open the fuse box, and add a link between the grey/white (from the rear light) with the grey/black output wire from fuse number 2 .

To wire the brake lights - On the servo plug ( now redundant) from the loom, cut back the sheathing and link the green( iginition live), white/blue, yellow/green all together - and the grey/yellow, yellow/black, white/yellow together. ignore all the other wires.
So you now have two seperate circuits, one for the rear brake light and one for the front brake light .
 
Excellent input guys, surprised no one has chimed in and said how this system sucks????????

A couple questions
1) I apologize my electrical skills are limited, so is there a specific type of switch, does BMW sell it for the non-servo units (hopefully at their standard 300% mark-up). Where did you mount the new switches at?

2)You say ignore the other wires? Where do the wires come from, the servo unit??? Do you just cut these wires out or do they come out when the servo unit comes out.

3) also how much does the whole servo unit weigh, it looks pretty fricken bulky, is there a weight savings by getting rid of this thing, will my little lady lose some weight??

4) I think stainless braided lines would be the way to go if you are going through all this trouble. I know on my sport bikes they make a huge improvement in feeling and response.

Well thanks again for all your input and look forward to hearing more info.
Regards,
Josh
 
1) the switches replace the old switches - they fit in the same places.
2) Dunno, I'll await steptoe
3) I've heard someone say its around 10kgs of weight saving though I've not weighted one myself
 
Steptoe said:
Those instructions above aren't quite what they seem :augie i wouldn't just point anyone in their direction assuming their of any nuse . I wonder if the guy actually did it this himself or had it done for him, or is just assuming that the brake lights would work as he's posted. I mean, it's just simple brake lights, isn't it. :D
Click to expand...

Yep that was me and yep I did do it all by myself. Nothing to complicated just rip out all the ABS/SERVO pipe work etc and plumb for as a standard bike. Used the BMW distribution piece as found on MAX bmw website and have since changed to braided lines as kindly recommended to HEL by your good self.

The brake lights just need a chopping about as you rightly describe because they work arse about face (Normally Closed switch on the ABS/SERVO system)

Bike has now had 3 MOT's at 3 different garages and each time the tester said there was very little difference when compared to a SERVO assisted bike.

Enjoy
 
delpel said:
Bike has now had 3 MOT's at 3 different garages and each time the tester said there was very little difference when compared to a SERVO assisted bike.

Enjoy
Click to expand...

Every time I've had my servo assisted bike MOTd it has always been without the servo operating because it's not travelled the necessary distance, never failed yet.
 
Confused....

DaveGSCymro said:
Every time I've had my servo assisted bike MOTd it has always been without the servo operating because it's not travelled the necessary distance, never failed yet.
Click to expand...

could you explain your statement....:confused: On my past 1150GS the servo assisted barkes are functional as soon as you turn the ignition on, you can hear the servo working when you apply the brakes.
 
Mick_rw said:
could you explain your statement....:confused: On my past 1150GS the servo assisted barkes are functional as soon as you turn the ignition on, you can hear the servo working when you apply the brakes.
Click to expand...


You can hear the sound of the servo as soon as you turn the ignition on but the servo ABS brakes have a self test, when the bike has been ridden a short distance the warning lights on the dash go out, only now are the servo brakes fully operational. Up until the lights go out there is only residual braking.

If you want to try it out park facing down hill and turn the ignition off, now start it up and move a metre and see how effective the brakes are, be carful though.
 
Ok...

DaveGSCymro said:
You can hear the sound of the servo as soon as you turn the ignition on but the servo ABS brakes have a self test, when the bike has been ridden a short distance the warning lights on the dash go out, only now are the servo brakes fully operational. Up until the lights go out there is only residual braking.

If you want to try it out park facing down hill and turn the ignition off, now start it up and move a metre and see how effective the brakes are, be carful though.
Click to expand...

Yes I understand that, but your barkes should be up and running after the wheel has moved thru a short distance which completes the self test, so I assume if yours are not fully functional after riding to the MOT you must live in the MOT centre....:D:D PS when I say a short distance about half a rotation of the wheel.
 
Mick_rw said:
Yes I understand that, but your barkes should be up and running after the wheel has moved thru a short distance which completes the self test, so I assume if yours are not fully functional after riding to the MOT you must live in the MOT centre....:D:D PS when I say a short distance about half a rotation of the wheel.
Click to expand...

The servo resets every time the ignition is turned off, so when the MOT tester turns it on the servo isn't operating and the wheels need to turn more than half a turn:D
 
DaveGSCymro said:
The servo resets every time the ignition is turned off, so when the MOT tester turns it on the servo isn't operating and the wheels need to turn more than half a turn:D
Click to expand...

err... no!

The wheels do not need to turn before the servo starts working... that is the ABS ride-off self test, and is nothing to do with the servo assist, just the ABS.
 
DaveGSCymro said:
They do RTFM;)
Click to expand...

the self diagnosis (for the servos) is different to pull away test (ABS) and happens as soon as you turn on the ignition and completes without the wheels needing to be rotated....

RTFM :augie
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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