Gearchange getting stiff (not easily returning to mid position). On old 1150, it was easy - whipped the lever and linkages off, took everything apart, greased, back together, 15 mins max, all happy.
2004 1200GS starting to do the same. Methinks it'll be just as easy, but:
1 - I couldn't work out how to get the shaft out completely (far end was hitting the exhaust and I didn't want to push it too far in case it was a pain to get back in)
2 - the ball joint linkages didn't seem to have the circlips that pull out to let you separate the joints. But it was bloody hard to see under there. They are showing in the diagram in the CD workshop manual I got off someone on here, but having done the job on the 1150, I knew what to look for and I can't see or feel them and I can't get the whole assembly out to have a proper look
3 - luckily I already had the torx spanner from having done the gear change potentiometer a while back. Otherwise, that would have been....annoying
I was able to grease the shaft so when it was back in place through the frame, it was turning freely enough for things to be back to normal. So the issue seems to have been the shaft drying out where it passes through the frame, not the ball joints going dry as on the 1150, but is it possible to jiggle it around enough to get the shaft out without removing the exhaust and do the ball joints definitely have the clips in, if I could see well enough and had extra long fingers?
Actually, I do have extra long fingers, but they didn't help. Maybe you need to be double-jointed as well?
Cheers all!
Neil
2004 1200GS starting to do the same. Methinks it'll be just as easy, but:
1 - I couldn't work out how to get the shaft out completely (far end was hitting the exhaust and I didn't want to push it too far in case it was a pain to get back in)
2 - the ball joint linkages didn't seem to have the circlips that pull out to let you separate the joints. But it was bloody hard to see under there. They are showing in the diagram in the CD workshop manual I got off someone on here, but having done the job on the 1150, I knew what to look for and I can't see or feel them and I can't get the whole assembly out to have a proper look
3 - luckily I already had the torx spanner from having done the gear change potentiometer a while back. Otherwise, that would have been....annoying
I was able to grease the shaft so when it was back in place through the frame, it was turning freely enough for things to be back to normal. So the issue seems to have been the shaft drying out where it passes through the frame, not the ball joints going dry as on the 1150, but is it possible to jiggle it around enough to get the shaft out without removing the exhaust and do the ball joints definitely have the clips in, if I could see well enough and had extra long fingers?
Actually, I do have extra long fingers, but they didn't help. Maybe you need to be double-jointed as well?
Cheers all!
Neil