2004 R1200GS Acceleration Issue

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celticbeemer

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Hello, I have never owned a BMW Bike before (Have had plentry of their Cars), and I have just bought a 2004 R1200GS with 40,000 Miles, with a full service history. the bike was last serviced at 35,000 approx.

Issue 1: When I accelerate the bike after starting it rocks from left to right with more movement toward the right side. Is this normal?

Issue 2: When bringing the bike home from buying it I over took into some roadmarking/hatching approx 30/40mph, and the bike went into a serious speed woble, and I was inch's from falling off. I would have thought a off road capable bike would have performed better than that. Any suggestions.

Issue 3: The engine seems rough when ideling, but is smooth upto 4/5k RPM, and has difficulty/strains to accelerate beyond and into 5-7k RPM. Any ideas as to what is going on.

Issue 4: it is very hard on petrol, I have had several big bikes Hayabusa, R1, none of these were as hard on juice (and I rode them hard).

I am hoping there is some common issue between issues 1, 3 and 4.

Thanks for any help /advice given

CelticBeemer.
 
Hi CB,

1.. When you say accelerate the bike are you actually moving or just revving the bike at a standstill? If it`s the latter thats normal, you should try the 1150 as thats far worse!

2... Have your tyres got a few miles on them & have squared off? If so that`ll be your problem I think

Hope that helps a bit!

Lee
 
1 Yes, entirely normal. In fact, the 1200s do it less than the earlier bikes.

2 Tyre condition and pressure would be the first suspects but at 40K miles you might want to establish the condition of the front and rear shocks and the steering head bearings.

3 It should rev cleanly up to the rev limiter. Since it's nearly due a service, that would be the first port of call.

4 I get 45 mpg ridden hard. See the "service" comments about above.
 
Check your air filter celtic,its very small for 1200cc of displacement.
And your tyres.
I dont think youll find a problem with your steering head bearings as all the forces acting on these on a conventional front end are absent on telelever.
Worth checking the ball joint for play though.Mine failed at 4k.
 
Difficulty in achieving max rpm could be down to the secondary spark plugs not working (two per pot). When were the plugs changed last ??

Like said, all boxer bikes will twitch to one side when the throttle is blipped due to the torque reaction of the engine.

Handling worries are probably due to worn shocks, mine was getting twitchy at 25k with worn shocks, now cured with a set of upgraded Wilbers shocks. Best money I ever spent on a bike. Also check the obvious like tyre pressures, tread etc.

Boxers also run best if valve clearances set accurately and throttle bodies balanced for smoother top end. Ride your bike after a service when valves and throttles are reset and its like a totally different bike, especially towards the higher revs. The rough idling you mention is due to the two large pistons opposing one another accelerating and decelerating between TDC/BDC, a smooth japanese four it definitely ain't. Inherent 'character' which you get used to (as is the engine torque reaction and the gearshift).

Also, are you sure you have held the throttle twist grip all the way round to the stop ?? Seriously, the boxers have a large flat spot at about 5k prm then get a 'second wind' after a slight delay in the power delivery, its possible you have rolled off again before the engine has worked itself up past this power step and towards the redline.
 
Issue 1: When I accelerate the bike after starting it rocks from left to right with more movement toward the right side. Is this normal?

Yes - effect of having the crankshaft longitudinal. With an HD you get a fore and aft rocking because the crank runs across the frame.

Issue 2: When bringing the bike home from buying it I over took into some roadmarking/hatching approx 30/40mph, and the bike went into a serious speed woble, and I was inch's from falling off. I would have thought a off road capable bike would have performed better than that. Any suggestions.

Assuming you were riding sensibly and the hatching was typical - no that isnt normal. The GS isnt particularly off road capable (too heavy by far) but it shouldnt react to road surfaces any worse than any other bike.

Issue 3: The engine seems rough when ideling, but is smooth upto 4/5k RPM, and has difficulty/strains to accelerate beyond and into 5-7k RPM. Any ideas as to what is going on.

Too subjective to comment, except that if you are coming to the GS from sports bikes, the engine style is different. Its not meant to rev the nuts off like a jap in line 4. Its a chugger.

Issue 4: it is very hard on petrol, I have had several big bikes Hayabusa, R1, none of these were as hard on juice (and I rode them hard).

There probably is a common issue - you riding it like you used to do your hedgeabuser. It should do 45 / 50 mpg (dont judge by bthe notoriously flakey fuel guage but go from fill up to fill up) but if you thrash it sports bike style it will drink fuel and will simply not be a very good bike.

In short its not a sports bike. Nor is it a real off roader. Its a very good naked road bike with an off road style. So relax, you have changed style of bike, now change riding style to suit. :rob
 
Issue 1: When I accelerate the bike after starting it rocks from left to right with more movement toward the right side. Is this normal?

Normal. All BM twins have done this and presumably always will. As said its due to the motor design. Note, coming from big Jap fours, you may occasionally have a tendency to spare your front wheel some wear :augie . If you practice this habit on a BM twin, be aware that this effect is exaggerated with only one wheel on the ground and you have associated directional issues.

Issue 2: When bringing the bike home from buying it I over took into some roadmarking/hatching approx 30/40mph, and the bike went into a serious speed woble, and I was inch's from falling off. I would have thought a off road capable bike would have performed better than that. Any suggestions.

This can be caused by incorrect tyre pressures and also by tyre wear. The more worn the tyres become, the greater a tendency they have to "fall" off white lines etc. On a safety note, riding on paint, metal grids, overbanding etc is never a good idea as it will usually cause stability problems, especially in the wet. Also keep in mind that cross-hatching is usually associated with junctions and overtaking on the approach to junctions is a recipe for disaster. Stay safe. You are on a motorcycle with a far superior power to weight ratio to just about anything you are likely to be following on the road. Wait until you pass the junction and then make the overtake when it is safe to do so. Here endeth the lesson :rob .

Issue 3: The engine seems rough when ideling, but is smooth upto 4/5k RPM, and has difficulty/strains to accelerate beyond and into 5-7k RPM. Any ideas as to what is going on.

Boxer twins have a lot of weight rocking from side to side on tickover. A slightly higher tickover usually helps, but most owners like the character of it. I know of some Airhead owners who deliberately lower the tickover until the bike is almost cutting out to increase the 'rock'. I wouldn't encourage this myself as I think it is probably hard on bearings etc. Difficulty revving cleanly sounds like it needs a service.

Issue 4: it is very hard on petrol, I have had several big bikes Hayabusa, R1, none of these were as hard on juice (and I rode them hard).

Service.

Enjoy Boxer twin ownership and learn to live with the 'character'
 
sounds like the throttles need balancing (1,3,4 ) and your tyres need 36/42 psi - and wind the rear shock damping up a bit (2)
 
Try a 'proper' service

You may find that all will change after a decent service and computer update etc; Tyres will be checked carefully too. ALL your problems will be solved! And the 'rocking' will not be noticed after a few weeks (you will probably realise that blipping the throttle is a useless exercise anyway!)
 


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