To remove the peened bits I just used a sharp chisel, one smack on each and it cuts clean through the soft aluminium.
Fair do's. Cats and skins!
I have to admit that the problem has not been completely cured despite working the brushes and blowing out the brush holders/commutator etc. so I may have to strip it out again. All was fine with the start up test, warning triangle, flashing brake failure light then all warning lights out after a short distance as normal. However after a couple of miles I did a riding test of the ABS which pulsed as normal but then the steady brake failure light came on and has been steady up till I tapped it with a dead fall soft hammer which sent the light off! My thoughts are that when the motor runs the brushed get kicked off the commutator and you get open circuit through the motor which causes the failure light to come on.
On a more positive note, bleeding the brakes on this model is straight forward and easy given a length of flexible transparent tube and plenty of fluid. Allow fresh fluid to run through the pipe work by opening the valve block connections till the bubbles stop or at least reduce which saves pumping it through. Once you've got a bit of lever on the fronts after bleeding them through normally, pump the lever rapidly and look for small bubbles rising in the reservoir. If there are any, open the small bleed nipple on the reservoir exit and allow the remaining air to escape until clear fluid is seen or the bubbles cease. In my case this got the the lever perfect.
Fluff.



