2007 non servo ABS fail removal

[Andygbsmith]

So I had the two faults on the ABS. Power to motor and pump. I pulled the motor off and found one of the brushes was stuck so freed it off and used the GS91 to test everything. All good pump runs fine now.
First ride as soon as I touched the front brake I got the fault back.
Interesting if you just use the rear brake it’s fine.
Back home I got the same two faults. Cleared and on the next ride the same issue so I’m guessing that there is another issue somewhere.
I’m not bothered about having the ABS SO.
Is it possible to remove the ABS system completely and if so could someone point me at some information.
I found lots about deleting the servo brakes but nothing about the later version.

 

[Santa-2512]

If your talking about the later unit which is just abs, then a Ford fiesta unit can be swapped in, not sure if you can servoectmise the later units

 

[Andygbsmith]

It’s a non servo unit. The motor works fine .

 

[DrFarkoff]

So I had the two faults on the ABS. Power to motor and pump. I pulled the motor off and found one of the brushes was stuck so freed it off and used the GS91 to test everything. All good pump runs fine now.
First ride as soon as I touched the front brake I got the fault back.
Interesting if you just use the rear brake it’s fine.
Back home I got the same two faults. Cleared and on the next ride the same issue so I’m guessing that there is another issue somewhere.
I’m not bothered about having the ABS SO.
Is it possible to remove the ABS system completely and if so could someone point me at some information.
I found lots about deleting the servo brakes but nothing about the later version.

So what does the GS911 Say the fault is ?? That would be a great Clue to work with ??

Later version is a different kettle of Fish

99.9 times it's motor:- load/conductivity/brush contact rather than main ABS block valve failing

P.S> Disregard the Balloon Below Diagnose your own Unit with assistance from us and take it from there

We need to know how and when it fails? Are you riding when it does it?

Does it do it right from the get go ?

Did you run the GS 911 Bleed facility on the ABS block valve ?

 

[botus]

So I had faults on the ABS.
Back home I got the same two faults. Cleared and on the next ride the same issue so I’m guessing that there is another issue somewhere.

Please Note: none of the info below relates in anyway to the early strange crap BMW ABS Servo madness

Early failure modes on normal Pre-ESP pump ABS modules was all about circuit board fun - often where links between the multiplug and the circuit board "accidentally fell off" - my Vaxhuall Omega did it and the brakes would randomly lock up any wheel and it was unsafe to use - in April 2015 after BMW had done the fuel pump recall, they handed back my June 2007 built R1200GS saying "Oh your ABS died whilst in the shop, we tried to reset it but I'm not sure if it worked, take it home and see how you get on !!!"

This fauilure was on the later 2007 ABS II unit - I'm not sure what the fault actually was - but again just like the Omega the brakes went super mental locking the front multiple times under little to no provocation on the 3 mile ride back from the dealer - it was so unsafe I stripped it down that night and sent off for repair

it came back working with a guarantee for life from ECU testing - you could see they'd badly cut the black cover open on the electronics side and obviously molested something inside... the weird thing was the pump motor looked as if it was still crimped on as per factory (Note: it was definitely my unit I got back....)

it then died again in Aug 2017 with
5DF0-Hydraulic unit pump motor
5DF1-Hydraulic unit pump motor connector faulty

I rang ECU testing to ask if they had definitely repaired "both types of fault first time round ?" - and they weren't forthcoming with an answer... but they took it back and fixed it for free - (again Note: it was definitely the very same unit I got back....) but this time the ESP pump had definitely been off and they made a right mess of peening it back on - I think the idea was so if it goes wrong again they could claim its been molested and refuse to work on it....

fortunately it's still working correctly some 7 plus years down the line - I now think my units first fault was something other then the ESP pump and it was never taken off when they first repaired it.... the difference in riding the bike with the first failure was light years different to the safe but no ABS operation of the second faliure

 

[Steptoe]

It’s a non servo unit. The motor works fine .

Leave it I place.
The only reason the servo/abs is removed when it fails is because the brakes are crap and dangerous.
If the later abs only modulators fail it doesn’t affect braking performance

 

[Andygbsmith]

So a couple of images with the fault codes shown.
If you clear the faults and start the bike up you can ride off with no issues. The first time you touch the front brake the brake fail comes on.

I was only thinking about taking everything off just to remove a couple of kilos of scrap and hopefully stop the brake fail light being on all the time.

 

[er-minio]

It seems the motor not working, common issue, as described by others above.

I've had the same on my 2007 GSA (non servo). First time I had Motoscot fix the ABS unit as he used to do it as a service.
Second time, years later, I fixed it myself. Used a Series 1 (not a Fiesta) motor and also created some brackets for easy removal and reinstall of the motor for next time it will fail.
I actually have to buy a few more spares motors and maybe another 1200 modulator unit as well.

This last motor has been running for a few years now.

 

[DrFarkoff]

So a couple of images with the fault codes shown.
If you clear the faults and start the bike up you can ride off with no issues. The first time you touch the front brake the brake fail comes on.

I was only thinking about taking everything off just to remove a couple of kilos of scrap and hopefully stop the brake fail light being on all the time.

There ya go! The Front circuit is a Higher "volume of fluid" moved I very much suspect that you just need to replace that motor,

A system can show 13 volts via a very minimal draw Multimeter or an LED (again low current required to work) when used to test the circuits "But" When you use an incandescent type test bulb and it requires "amps" to allow it to "shine" and that is when the circuits fail

I suspect your system is "fine" until it has to power up for everything and then brushes just don;t handle the load

So With a 2003 to 2010 basically pre twin cam I was able to remove the ABS block without stripping the bike to bits Just the tank and intake trumpet off ...

The hardest part about it is, Getting a donor motor and getting it to fit into the plungers (What the Motor Spindle locates into) its a sort of one side in and twist and gently push all in one movement

I drilled and fitted 4 M6 studs to hold the unit down In reality two is all it needs and do not grind the edges where the Pump motor fits in!

It is these square edges that stop the pump motor from rotating, Hence two M6 studs is plenty as you are just holding the motor down into place

Refit it all Bleed it and That should be you for quite a while !!

You cannot really remove those ABS Block versions as there is a shitload goes on via CAN and LIN bus to Engine traction control and Instruments Speed display

 

[er-minio]

This was mine after drilling:

Modulator pre work:

The motors:

The extra mounting points (bolts for reference only):

I didn't drill down more than the height of the 4 raised corners ofc.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Anyone else doing any work at the ABS Block valve?

Stick masking tape or wrap the Brake ports AND the central port where the motor spindle goes with Duct tape or Masking tape or cling film to keep out any debris !!



Nice Job @er-minio

 

[er-minio]

Thanks!
I had all masked (sides too) while working on it as you can see a bit of the masking tape on picture one.

On thing I did was ruining the end bolts that go into those ports, the ones at the end of the metal oil circuits (apologies, I don't know the exact names for those in English) that go into the modulator as I had to use visegrips unscrew them from the modulator, so they got a bit scuffed.
They went back in again, no leaks all ok (again, this job has been done years and I covered some miles in the meantime) but replacing those is one of those "future" jobs I have in mind.

Another thing I wanted to do was to have at least 2 modulators (alu block + motor) in order to be able to do a quick swap if a problem would arise and then take time to fix the one you take out and keep it ready for the next failure.

 

[Andygbsmith]

OK so thanks for the feedback. I made a tool to hold the block pistons in place so refitting wasn’t an issue.
So does anyone actually have the part number for this replacement motor?

 

[Santa-2512]

OK so thanks for the feedback. I made a tool to hold the block pistons in place so refitting wasn’t an issue.
So does anyone actually have the part number for this replacement motor?

Post 10

 

[er-minio]

Not exactly. The motor I am using as a replacement in post #10 is the BMW Series 1 ABS electric motor.
To be clear: I used that one, it works perfectly and was cheaper than the Fiesta counterpart (same exact motor, but slightly different product number).

But, to be precise and following the scriptures online, the replacement motor should be the one used in the Fiesta (the product numbers are the same) Mk7 ABS unit.
There is a thread in here with the exact code.

See here: https://www.ukgser.com/community/threads/k1300gt-abs-pump-failure.376907/

 

[Andygbsmith]

I didn’t realise that you’re using second hand motors. I’ll leave it, as I said most of my other bikes don’t have ABS

 

[er-minio]

You can also open and refurb the existing motor, or just gently hit it with an hammer, as suggested on these pages, without disassembling anything.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I didn’t realise that you’re using second hand motors. I’ll leave it, as I said most of my other bikes don’t have ABS

Feck Sake People have done many many many times without problem

You are using an electric motor Not the complete ABS unit!

You would be happy with a used Wiper motor for wouldn't you?

There is no difference in that equation and way better than what you have!


P.S. It won;t pass MOT with the Light on!

 

[er-minio]

Also, all that motor does is "agitate" the two valves by pressing the "buttons" you see in the last pic. The little shaft on the motor is off-centre and presses one after the other at the correct speed.

 

[Andygbsmith]

As I said in the original post.
I have removed and striped the original motor already.
I understand that it’s just the motor so don’t get all stroppy!