2010 GSA Dynojet Maps and Autotune

929, remove your front seat and you see the tool tray undo the rubber strap and the top tool tray lifts out, than inside you will see the wires that connect to the 12v socket on the side, this is what andrew has connected the positive switched wire to his autotune .

Hope it helps
 
auto tune

i took a live off the rear power socket wich is a switched live through the ignition
you can access it under the tool tray

hope this helps if not pm me your number and i will call you in the morning
 
ding dong

Hows your bike going?
did you go back to the dyno with the baffles in?
had to put mine back in to loud without
 
Thank you guys, I'll have another look this evening.....one more thing, how did you actually make the connection - I'm just a little concerned as I keep hearing that CANBUS doesn't tolerate being messed with?

Cheers :)
 
Thank you guys, I'll have another look this evening.....one more thing, how did you actually make the connection - I'm just a little concerned as I keep hearing that CANBUS doesn't tolerate being messed with?

Cheers :)

Simplest way is to splice it using a Scotch Lock Snap connector.

or you could splice the wires and solder....etc...

either method is Canbus friendly.

However, if you're not sure how to do this. ask a mate who's competent to do it for you.
:thumb
 
Hows your bike going?
did you go back to the dyno with the baffles in?
had to put mine back in to loud without

Hi andrew, im due on the dyno begin of may ready for my bast to Germany, bth it dont feel any different with baffles in regarding performance and its still very smooth and has a massive spread of power, but id rather be 100% .

929 here's a pic of inside the bottom part of the tool tray and you can clearly see the 12v socket wiring to tap into.
 
Advice please

Just fitted a PC V to my 2007 GSA. Installation seemed simple enough and the bike handles much better at low speeds. All the jerkiness has gone. Some questions:

1. I had to unplug 2 connectors (low down on L & R) which are now hanging loose and exposed to the elements. I'm an all-weather long distance rider so obviously this is not good. Does anyone have a good idea what to do about this?

2. The PC wiring is generally quite exposed. Is it weatherproof?

3. The idle speed (when stationary) is so low now that the engine seems to make a knocking sound as though it's about to stall. Is that what I should expect or do I need to get a custom map?

Thanks for any help,

MB
 
Just want to stick up for going the Power Commander route - had a PC3 on my 2005 GS (combined with a full BOS system) and it made a HUGE diffrence - yes more power, but also so so so much smoother (especially low down where the increase in 'driveability' made it feel almost like a diffrent bike).

I bought it from the UK importer and fitted it myself. I'm reasonably handy in the Garage but a bit of a numpty in front of a computer (so the nice people I bought it from supplied it with the right map for my bike and setup). The instructions provided and the support over the phone from the supplier were excellent. I have been back to them since with questions about what to do with my new 2010 GSA and have found them extremely knowlwdgeable and helpful.

I have two points to make:
1) unless you are confident / competant enaough to do it all yourself I would suggest you don't buy this sort of kit when you are on holiday / online from someone who won't be there to answer any questions.

2) I've got a feeling (although I can't gaurantee it) that if you have the standard chip remapped it will leave a record to the effect and that they can only be remapped a certain number of times (you probably find that a dealer will check that you have the latest official updates installed when you have the bike serviced).

3) if any of the above starts you worrying about warranty etc - don't do it and don't question people who do!


I know that's three points, but I'm on a roll now.

Going to turn my computer off and hide behind the sofa before it explodes with unhappy relies.:hide

4) if anything is spelt wrong its because I havn't got enough time in my life to work out how to download the sodding spell checker!
 
Just fitted a PC V to my 2007 GSA. Installation seemed simple enough and the bike handles much better at low speeds. All the jerkiness has gone. Some questions:

1. I had to unplug 2 connectors (low down on L & R) which are now hanging loose and exposed to the elements. I'm an all-weather long distance rider so obviously this is not good. Does anyone have a good idea what to do about this?

2. The PC wiring is generally quite exposed. Is it weatherproof?
I had problems in heavy rain - stuff the connectors with Silicon Grease

3. The idle speed (when stationary) is so low now that the engine seems to make a knocking sound as though it's about to stall. Is that what I should expect or do I need to get a custom map?
Have a look at the map and see if it's altering low speed fuelling - you can always try resetting to zero at idle. Check the TPS is being read ok.
 
1) unless you are confident / competant enaough to do it all yourself I would suggest you don't buy this sort of kit when you are on holiday / online from someone who won't be there to answer any questions.

Dynotek are very helpful wherever you buy it from. If you are able to connect your computer to the PC while on the Internet they can even remote control in to take a look.
 
I had problems in heavy rain - stuff the connectors with Silicon Grease



I had the same issue in rain (not even heavy) with my 2010 bike its was erratic on tickover and so had to stuff the the left side throttle body connector with silicon grease as well. :blast
 
I had problems in heavy rain - stuff the connectors with Silicon Grease


Have a look at the map and see if it's altering low speed fuelling - you can always try resetting to zero at idle. Check the TPS is being read ok.

Thanks everyone. Off to buy some Silicone grease...

Re the mapping, I haven't connected it to a computer yet. I have only a Mac - will it work?

MB
 
Hi, I've added the silicone grease as suggested and even got a custom map put on (for economy) by Two Wheel Tuning in Waterlooville, but there is a problem which I've experienced since installing the PCV, both before and after getting the custom map. (And I've just done 2k in Spain so there's been plenty of time to assimilate it.)

Basically, after running the bike for a period of time (10/20 mins or 2/3 hours if it's a long journey) when I slow down again (lights, roundabout, filtering through traffic etc.) the engine starts to idle at less than 1k rpm and starts to make a knocking sound, leading to a stall. Often this stall is as I pull the clutch. If I turn the throttle to give some more revs it oscillates wildly between less than 1k/stall feel and 3k rpm - it won't hold steady at, e.g. 1 or 1.5k. Once it stalls it won't restart unless I recycle the ignition, then it's fine as though nothing has happened, until another 10 mins/2 hours go by and I go through the process again.

I've had the FPC replaced under recall so I don't think it's that, and in any case this behaviour is only since installing the PCV, and both before and after I got the custom map.

Can anyone offer any advice as to what might be the cause and a possible solution?

Many thanks,

MB

PS, other than this the bike's behaviour is transformed. Beautifully smooth at low revs and the GS computer which was showing 46mpg is now showing 52mpg, but this seems too good to be true...
 
I had something similar with my 2004/PC3.
It didn't stall but sometimes would oscillate between idle and 1500 rpm. As soon as the the throttle was cracked it would run normally. I put it down to some strange effect with the Lambdas being disconnected. This only seemed to happen if I left it idling for several minutes. The PC simply adds or subtracts fuel and you need to remove the Lambdas as they would correct the changes the PC makes. My guess and it is a complete guess is that without the Lambdas the BMW ECU overcorrects for small changes in idle. You might want to try speeding up the idle slightly and seeing what happens. Another thing worth trying is changing the mxiture at idle rpm via the PC.

It is quite possible you are getting better mpg even if the mxiture is richer.
 
You might want to try speeding up the idle slightly and seeing what happens. Another thing worth trying is changing the mxiture at idle rpm via the PC.

Thanks for these helpful suggestions. I'll find out how to speed up the idle and give it a go.

If anyone else has any experience of similar problems it would be great to hear from you.

MB
 


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