2011 R1200GSA struggling to accelerate at high rpm problem!!

Just a thought, I deleted the exhaust flap and its actual box. So plug is strapped up.

It threw a code but would the ecu be throttling back because of that error?

Suppose i could just refit the box and leave the flap off and see
 
If you refit the box it will still throw a code, it still throws a code if you just disconnect the cables.
I did not have a problem with just the plug not connected to anything, although I have just fitted the gizmo to get rid of the code.
It does not seem to have made any difference except getting rid of the code. I just like to keep the ECU happy.
Happiness is a smiling ECU.
 
Mistacat said:
If you refit the box it will still throw a code, it still throws a code if you just disconnect the cables.
I did not have a problem with just the plug not connected to anything, although I have just fitted the gizmo to get rid of the code.
It does not seem to have made any difference except getting rid of the code. I just like to keep the ECU happy.
Happiness is a smiling ECU.
Click to expand...

Yeah had a google and wont make a diff so ruled that out.

Will swap exhaust back and see what that does tmrw.
 
Knock sensor voltages a touch low but I don`t think there is a problem with them could be fuel , air temp, etc..
I would like to see a .CSV file 70 mph cruise then full throttle to 85 mph again with the rapid bike removed.
I would like to see if the lambda sensors are still erratic and see if it still shows a negative reading for engine load.
 
Moonmanzn said:
Soooooo

Didnt make a difference with whole rapid bike disconnected.

Brand new oem plugs

Checked all fuel lines for pinches

Tanks venting fine

No codes on gs911

New Fuel controller

New fuel pump

New injectors

New TPS

New Battery

Valves and TB checked

New primary coils

Reset adaptations

I have last things to test....

Remove full exhaust and go back to stock

Knock sensors

Crank sensor

Lower coils

After that I'm stumped....or after covid 19 lifts I ride someones TC 1200 locally and see if im just mad.

But....I'm very very appreciative of all the advice, suggestions and help with my CSV files you gentleman have provided.

I WILL PREVIAL
Click to expand...

once its all std or just the exhaust non stock, how long does it take to rebuild adaptions ??

I don't know how far u r going each time you make a change. But I think you need at least 20 mile before you can make sensible judgements. You need to try and hold certain revs and loads for as long as possible for it to work out how to behave. A nice long shallow hill, then ride up over and over again at same revs diff throttle, go faster etc. over and over. All the way from walking to 140mph
 
botus said:
once its all std or just the exhaust non stock, how long does it take to rebuild adaptions ??

I don't know how far u r going each time you make a change. But I think you need at least 20 mile before you can make sensible judgements. You need to try and hold certain revs and loads for as long as possible for it to work out how to behave. A nice long shallow hill, then ride up over and over again at same revs diff throttle, go faster etc. over and over. All the way from walking to 140mph
Click to expand...

I will go for a longer ride tmrw and see how it does, will refit stock exhaust and do test run and get a log for mist.
 
Mistacat said:
If you refit the box it will still throw a code, it still throws a code if you just disconnect the cables.
I did not have a problem with just the plug not connected to anything, although I have just fitted the gizmo to get rid of the code.
It does not seem to have made any difference except getting rid of the code. I just like to keep the ECU happy.
Happiness is a smiling ECU.
Click to expand...

I fitted one of these when I removed my flap and control box removes any codes generated.

https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
GeorgeM said:
I fitted one of these when I removed my flap and control box removes any codes generated.

https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes that is the little gizmo that I fitted.

Can you select real time values switch the ignition on but don`t start the engine , open the throttle to full and see if it is reading 100% if not make sure the butterfly is opening to the stop and if it is then undo the 2 TPS bolts and see if it will wiggle to 100%. I know that the TPS is not adjustable but there can be a little bit of movement.

The reason for this is ( I might be wrong and if I am please put me right). I believe the load on these bikes is calculated by TPS versus RPM with gear position, air temperature, engine temperature, etc thrown in.
As there is not a MAF or MAP sensor I can not see any other answer.
Which brings me back to these strange negative load readings at full throttle from 5000 rpm in 6th gear. When the RPM and TPS readings look OK.
Anyone any ideas ?
 
Ignore the comments about negative load readings.
I have had a look through some more TC information that I found on a chip, these negative load readings happen in all gears at all throttle openings so I suspect the trigger is time, ( the speed at which the throttle is operated).
On pre - TC bikes the mixture would go rich then lean causing a slight stumble on rapid throttle opening in the wrong gear but I cant find any negative load figures.
I wonder if the Negative readings are linked into the traction control mechanism to prevent excessive load on the drive components ?.
Which brings us back to your problem. The lambda sensor readings being high,low and erratic ( dropping out).
Will be interested to see the .CSV file with the rapid bike removed.
 
I have emailed you graphs of your lambda sensor voltages, compared to a known good voltage graph.
 
Mist, thanks will have a look now.

O2 sensors I bought to replace threw codes so assuming they actually fried and reason I got them for 10£. Have some new ones coming today.

Bin Ridin, that's a good shout. Will see if that makes a difference

I'm going back to stock headers and pipe today as well.
 
Moonmanzn said:
Mist, thanks will have a look now.

O2 sensors I bought to replace threw codes so assuming they actually fried and reason I got them for 10£. Have some new ones coming today.

Bin Ridin, that's a good shout. Will see if that makes a difference

I'm going back to stock headers and pipe today as well.
Click to expand...

One thing at a time! It does sound like your lambda probes, simply disconnect them and have a go, that will tell all.

I had a similar problem on one of my bikes and it turned out to be the probes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Nin said:
One thing at a time! It does sound like your lambda probes, simply disconnect them and have a go, that will tell all.

I had a similar problem on one of my bikes and it turned out to be the probes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

I ran without o2 sensors and didnt make a difference.
 
Moonmanzn said:
I ran without o2 sensors and didnt make a difference.
Click to expand...

I thought you had said earlier that it did

Okay this is a bit odd But can you braid??

Sometimes simple answers are right in front of us

Basically the only thing that the sensors all have in common is their earth

There is only one earth cable from memory and its a ball ache to get to and prone to corrosion

If you can braid three bits of light multi strand wire together fit a crimped eyelet to each end and make it long enough to go from the battery negative to an easy to get to main Engine / gearbox bolt even slipping between a head guard and the head would work) and try that (for belt and braces you can also do one to the frame)

Basically it clears up possible earthing resistance issues and is a cheap check
 
he did.....

with the rapid bike evo on, its not revving out cleanly. he disconnected the cat sensors and it seemed to help, so many of us think that device is being strange. He has a blanking plug that leaves the wiring harness and everything connected but circumnavigates the extras the rapid bike brings to the party.... but even so we still think something odd is going on.... so he took it out of the equation and then with or without cat sensors its not cured things

if you unplug the cat sensors the bike should fall back to a base map without any extras it tries to introduce for temp, altitude whatever else the primitive system can attempt to work around. however without receiving the right data from various inputs it can't rebuild the adaptions as its locked in get me home mode which it would appear on these bikes doesn't "limp"

although this one does....
 
I understand that all the sensors still work as normal with the lambda sensors disconnected.
When the lambda sensors are disconnected the ecu goes to a default setting of lambda = 1.0
 
Mistacat said:
I understand that all the sensors still work as normal with the lambda sensors disconnected.
When the lambda sensors are disconnected the ecu goes to a default setting of lambda = 1.0
Click to expand...

yes I imagine they do.... but the bike stops adapting. Its what was causing lots of issues on mine. I have a PC3 and you can flash a software update on the whole bike and do any diagnostics you like…. but post update it won't rebuild any adaptions to suite the later mapping. It will either have what was there for the old map or none at all (I suspect it keeps the old ones, but I don't know??). Reconnect the lambda sensors and put a zero map on the PC3 and its improves, as it finds its feet ….

first reflash (new Engine map, ZFE and TPMS software) and the bike was terrible and never got over itself in 18 months regardless show much I battelled with the PC3
second reflash (same software new I-level) with the lambda sensors connected and the adaptions wiped, it was shocking... but mostly got over self in an 8 mile ride. Top end was gone wouldn't pull past 7k, I was on my way back for an argument with the dealer... when its started behaving after I battled it to 90mph.... a mile later it would pull 120 easily and rev round to the red in any gear. A very odd sensation. The midrange hole dropped from a 1500 rpm disaster post first flash to a 400 rpm hole (much worse than the old original map and PC3 assistance - but light years from where it had been) and Top end hit that has gone walkabout for 18 months was back again.
 
These problems you are having, what kit are you using to measure the AFR when looking at the map results and setting up the PC3.
I agree the adaptations, long and short term fuel trims will not work without the lambda sensors connected, hence I would not run a system without them.
I admire your bravery letting a main dealer any where near your ECU.
My main dealer experiences ( out of my control ) were my recalls, cocked up a friends bike and a private purchase of my bike that had just had its 12k service done and was documented by a main dealer ( £500 engine oil and filter change and nothing else touched).
These have convinced me that I would not even trust them to check the tyre pressures.
Sorry this is going off topic, awaiting the .CSV files with the new lambda sensors fitted.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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