2012 R1200GSA Head Guards: Fall then Powder Coat

Tallguy

Tallguy

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Hi all,
I know this has been done before, but I thought I'd show you the results of a slow left-side spill :blast followed by powder coating the pair of guards.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyattcolin/9805557914/" "><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5540/9805557914_37452a6413_c.jpg" width="800" height="598" alt="Untitled"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyattcolin/9805291954/" title="BMW R1200GS Adventure Engine Guards Powder Coated"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/9805291954_8905d48def_c.jpg" width="800" height="598" alt="BMW R1200GS Adventure Engine Guards Powder Coated"></a>

The W of BMW has been partly ground out but at a casual glance you wouldn't really notice. The photo isn't as good as I hoped :( but the red is a reasonable match for the Magma Red of the tank/beak.

Being a non tech numpty, I got John of Solent Powder Finishers in Eastleigh nr Southampton to do all the prep work - I just rode up, unbolted them and handed them over. Paid £85 for the pair to be done. I dare say I could've got it done cheaper if I did the prep myself, but I'm lazy and inept :rolleyes:

In time, I plan to straighten the slight bend in the tubular bar where the bike slid forward. Big lever needed... :thumby:
 
I may get mine done in black having seen yours, the previous owner had a slight spill and I haven't been bothered to tidy it yet. I should have got them done for free where I used to work as we had a powder coating setup, but I was too lazy.
 
If you use a pry bar, protect the bike with a piece of scrap wood to spread the pressure rather than have direct metal to metal contact.
 
The standard crash bars (on the GSA at least) are stainless steel. They will be VERY tough to bend straight. EIther remove and use a BIG bench vice and long levers (or better a hydraulic press) or risk damage to the engine.

Powder coating works only on conductive materials (metals). Electrically conductive fillers do exist but not cheap.

Lab Metal is used by classic car restorers to fill pitted metal before powder coating. Not cheap but ordinary filler wont work under powder coating. http://www.eastwood.com/lab-metal-24-oz.html

Also try these for a high metal content epoxy by Devcon. http://www.devcon.com/index.cfm
 
Bendy toy said:
The standard crash bars (on the GSA at least) are stainless steel. They will be VERY tough to bend straight. EIther remove and use a BIG bench vice and long levers (or better a hydraulic press).
Click to expand...

I was surprised that they bent even just a little bit, it was a low speed drop during a cone slalom as part of a slow riding course :blast in front of everyone, didn't I feel like an idiot.
Mind you, it is a hefty beast (like me) and it only bent a tiny bit, about where the bolt attaches the left bar to the central crossmember.
I will probably just leave it, cos I is lazy. :thumb

Thanks for the info, I hope I never need it! Then again, there's another slow riding course in a few weeks. I'll probably drop it again :rolleyes:
 
Tallguy said:
I was surprised that they bent even just a little bit, it was a low speed drop during a cone slalom as part of a slow riding course :blast in front of everyone, didn't I feel like an idiot.
Click to expand...

Solent IAM at Whiteley by any chance? Plenty of metal hit the deck besides your bike, no need to be embarrassed about it.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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