2016 R1200GS LC – intermittent limp mode (4000 rpm cap) and engine light

[YorkyFrog]

Hi all,

This is my first GS, and I absolutely love it. I bought it in June this year with 25,000 miles on the clock and I use it daily. It has been faultless so far... but now I need some advice.

The problem: The engine warning light comes on and the bike goes into limp mode, so it won’t rev above about 4000 rpm. It’s intermittent:

• It first appeared a few days ago and then disappeared by itself.
• I rode 30 miles to work with no issues.
• After work, the fault was back on the dash. A restart cleared it, but a few hundred metres into the ride the bike went into limp mode again (no warning light this time, but still capped at 4000 rpm).
• I switched off, restarted, and everything was fine again.

What I’ve tried: I unplugged my Denali CANsmart (aftermarket CAN accessory controller) and the fault was still there, so I don’t think that’s the cause. I haven’t been able to read the codes yet.

Next step: The bike is booked in at Barrie Robson Motorcycles in York. In the meantime I’d love to hear from anyone who has had something similar. My suspects are the throttle/twistgrip sensor, a connector or wiring issue, the exhaust flap servo, or a battery/earth problem, but I’m guessing.

I’m also open to recommendations on what to check while I wait.
Thanks!

 

[richh]

On these bikes a diagnostic tool such as a gs911 or similar, is a good investment.

Takes a lot of the guesswork out of electrical gremlins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[YorkyFrog]

On these bikes a diagnostic tool such as a gs911 or similar, is a good investment.

Takes a lot of the guesswork out of electrical gremlins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, that’s good advice. A GS-911 would be great, but they’re expensive, especially for a bike I’ve only just bought. I agree it’s a good investment for these bikes but I can't afford it for the moment.
For now I’ve got it booked at Barrie Robson, and I’ll report back with what they find.
Just wondered if these were usual issues.
It seems to happen when humid, so may be a throttle body sensor?
If it turns out to be a recurring thing, I’ll probably buy one.

 

[Neil W]

Needs to be checked on a code reader, sounds identical to issues I had with my 2017 GSA which flagged up an issue with right side throttle body and left side switchgear.
The issue was actually a failing ECU ( if you look under the seat is the unit marked as a BOSCH unit ), mine was a non Bosch unit and BMW were aware of issues

 

[Barnoe]

I suppose they are all different but when my throttle was faulty it would rev up to 3-4k revs as soon as the bike started.

 

[siddo]

Thanks, that’s good advice. A GS-911 would be great, but they’re expensive, especially for a bike I’ve only just bought. I agree it’s a good investment for these bikes but I can't afford it for the moment.
For now I’ve got it booked at Barrie Robson, and I’ll report back with what they find.
Just wondered if these were usual issues.
It seems to happen when humid, so may be a throttle body sensor?
If it turns out to be a recurring thing, I’ll probably buy one.

Get the Motoscan app. Much more affordable.

 

[YorkyFrog]

Get the Motoscan app. Much more affordable.

Thanks Siddo,

I was looking at it. Any recommendation on which adapter to buy? UniCarScan UCSI-2100 and the OBDLink LX?
Not too sure what to buy tbh.

 

[siddo]

Thanks Siddo,

I was looking at it. Any recommendation on which adapter to buy? UniCarScan UCSI-2100 and the OBDLink LX?
Not too sure what to buy tbh.

Pretty sure I have unicarscan.
Take a look at the old mechanic yt channel. He's got some great tutorials.

 

[YorkyFrog]

Needs to be checked on a code reader, sounds identical to issues I had with my 2017 GSA which flagged up an issue with right side throttle body and left side switchgear.
The issue was actually a failing ECU ( if you look under the seat is the unit marked as a BOSCH unit ), mine was a non Bosch unit and BMW were aware of issues

Thanks Neil, good call. Mine is a Bosch unit (I’ve double-check under the seat), so I’m not sure it’s the ECU. The idle isn’t steady either, it hunts between roughly 900 and 1100 rpm, which makes me suspect the throttle bodies.

 

[Joca]

Some people do diagnostics reading with a GS-911, found on ebay and other places... A cheaper option.. Than a dealer.
(I do this service and listed on ebay)

 

[Santa-2512]

This will terrify you

mine started as a

throttle grip

Then throttle loom

Camshft sensor

Main ECU

Rear shock

Fuel pressure regulator

Throttle body


I gave up then and moved it on

It was a 2016 with 30K on the clock

 

[YorkyFrog]

This will terrify you

mine started as a

throttle grip

Then throttle loom

Camshft sensor

Main ECU

Rear shock

Fuel pressure regulator

Throttle body


I gave up then and moved it on

It was a 2016 with 30K on the clock

Ho ho hold on, Santa, that list is longer than my Christmas wish list! Yours was a 2016 with 30K on the clock, and mine is a 2016 with 25K, so I’m in the same territory. I thought I’d been good this year, but I must have been a naughty boy to get coal in my stocking like this.

The good news is that I’ve ordered a UniCarScan UCSI-2100 interface with the 10-pin adapter to use with Motoscan, so I can read the codes myself and not just guess at parts. I’ll report back with what it finds, and hopefully it’s only one thing on that list and not the whole sleigh-load.

 

[Santa-2512]

Ho ho hold on, Santa, that list is longer than my Christmas wish list! Yours was a 2016 with 30K on the clock, and mine is a 2016 with 25K, so I’m in the same territory. I thought I’d been good this year, but I must have been a naughty boy to get coal in my stocking like this.

The good news is that I’ve ordered a UniCarScan UCSI-2100 interface with the 10-pin adapter to use with Motoscan, so I can read the codes myself and not just guess at parts. I’ll report back with what it finds, and hopefully it’s only one thing on that list and not the whole sleigh-load.

Mine started with the throttle grip assy and rolled on over over a period of 18 months, of which was spent in the dealers!!

 

[malty welts]

2016 GSA 42K went into limp mode twice on a ride out, reset on cycling the ignition key. Motoscan and UNicarscan showed right throttle body voltage issue. Reset adaptations in the app and re calibrated throttle twist grip at the side of the road and no problem for the last 4K miles. Apparently - although get this checked - the 2016 software tolerated 2% differential in the voltages returned by the throttle sensors but this was upped to 5% with a later software update. My 2016 GSA has been outstanding wrt reliability, I'd happily ride it another 42K confident it would get me places.

I am sticking with my 2016 for which all things are known.

Now, the latest stuff (R1300) is mad. All of the coding of modules requires the mother-ship connected in real-time and BMW dealerships will not code secondhand parts. Where are these bike gonna be in 6+ years time when parts can only be coded as brand new from BMW (ouch!) BMW are off my new bike list, I love BMs, got lots of them from airheads (R60/2) onwards. I was looking to replace my 2016 this year but will not because of this stupid decision designed to lock you into BMW new parts over long term ownership

 

[Dezi58]

2016 GSA 42K went into limp mode twice on a ride out, reset on cycling the ignition key. Motoscan and UNicarscan showed right throttle body voltage issue. Reset adaptations in the app and re calibrated throttle twist grip at the side of the road and no problem for the last 4K miles. Apparently - although get this checked - the 2016 software tolerated 2% differential in the voltages returned by the throttle sensors but this was upped to 5% with a later software update. My 2016 GSA has been outstanding wrt reliability, I'd happily ride it another 42K confident it would get me places.

I am sticking with my 2016 for which all things are known.

Now, the latest stuff (R1300) is mad. All of the coding of modules requires the mother-ship connected in real-time and BMW dealerships will not code secondhand parts. Where are these bike gonna be in 6+ years time when parts can only be coded as brand new from BMW (ouch!) BMW are off my new bike list, I love BMs, got lots of them from airheads (R60/2) onwards. I was looking to replace my 2016 this year but will not because of this stupid decision designed to lock you into BMW new parts over long term ownership

Totally agree, the bean counters at bmw have been working overtime on increasing the revenue from the supply of spare parts and dealer servicing, I’m sticking with my 1200 rallye which is arguably the best of the range

 

[YorkyFrog]

2016 GSA 42K went into limp mode twice on a ride out, reset on cycling the ignition key. Motoscan and UNicarscan showed right throttle body voltage issue. Reset adaptations in the app and re calibrated throttle twist grip at the side of the road and no problem for the last 4K miles. Apparently - although get this checked - the 2016 software tolerated 2% differential in the voltages returned by the throttle sensors but this was upped to 5% with a later software update. My 2016 GSA has been outstanding wrt reliability, I'd happily ride it another 42K confident it would get me places.

I am sticking with my 2016 for which all things are known.

Now, the latest stuff (R1300) is mad. All of the coding of modules requires the mother-ship connected in real-time and BMW dealerships will not code secondhand parts. Where are these bike gonna be in 6+ years time when parts can only be coded as brand new from BMW (ouch!) BMW are off my new bike list, I love BMs, got lots of them from airheads (R60/2) onwards. I was looking to replace my 2016 this year but will not because of this stupid decision designed to lock you into BMW new parts over long term ownership

Thanks Malty,

that’s really helpful and encouraging.
Same bike year, same limp mode that clears on cycling the ignition, and my idle is hunting between about 900 and 1100 rpm, so a throttle body voltage issue looks very plausible.
I have just receive the UniCarScan, so I’ll check for that fault and try resetting the adaptations and recalibrating the twistgrip in Motoscan, as you did.
Good to hear it has been fine for 4K miles since.

I agree about the R1300 too. Needing the mothership connected for coding and no coding of second-hand parts looks designed to push you towards new parts over long-term ownership. I’m sticking with my 2016 as well, where things are known and can still be fixed.

 

[YorkyFrog]

First of all, thank you all for the replies. I really appreciate the help.

The UniCarScan and Motoscan arrived this morning, so I’ve read the codes. Five stored faults:

• Exhaust flap servomotor (21FA21)
• Exhaust flap mechanism (21FA22)
• Fuse active: component group 1 (21F5F2)
• Camshaft sensor (21FD30)
• Engine oil level too low (21F761)

No throttle body voltage fault showed up, which is what I was half expecting after Malty’s post.

My thoughts so far:

• Exhaust flap: I can hear it moving when I switch on, so it seems to be working. These might be old or historic entries.
• Oil level: the sight glass shows a normal level, so I suspect this is a historic or false reading.
• Fuse active, component group 1: I’m not sure what this one means. Does anyone know?
• Camshaft sensor: this could well be the culprit, and I noticed it was on Santa’s list earlier.

I haven’t cleared anything yet. Does anyone know whether these codes are active or stored, and which are most likely to cause limp mode? Any advice on the camshaft sensor (connector, wiring, or the sensor itself) would be appreciated.
Also, is it worth clearing the codes and seeing which ones come back?

Cheers!

 

[Santa-2512]

The exhaust flap is common as muck,

drop off the back can and look up the collector box, the flap will more than likley be siezed open - no worries if it is

Seized closed, your looking at an new set of headers & cat circa £1500 - if you can get it open , leave it, or claim on warranty if you have one

Fuse ? no sure on that one

Oil level - could be historic

Camshaft sensor - will give limp mode, as its needed for the 3D map - so them bike cant work stuff out so its limp mode to protect the engine

New sensor is in the region of £80-150 , you need it to work


Clear the codes - does it come back if it does, you need a new sensor

if it doesn't - ok, but be aware you've had a warning - it may fail at a later date

 

[YorkyFrog]

The exhaust flap is common as muck,

drop off the back can and look up the collector box, the flap will more than likley be siezed open - no worries if it is

Seized closed, your looking at an new set of headers & cat circa £1500 - if you can get it open , leave it, or claim on warranty if you have one

Fuse ? no sure on that one

Oil level - could be historic

Camshaft sensor - will give limp mode, as its needed for the 3D map - so them bike cant work stuff out so its limp mode to protect the engine

New sensor is in the region of £80-150 , you need it to work


Clear the codes - does it come back if it does, you need a new sensor

if it doesn't - ok, but be aware you've had a warning - it may fail at a later date

Am I right in thinking that if the errors are no longer present then all the above are actually fine?
So clear the code and wait for the issue to be back. And it should soon since it is intermittent.
Once back, read the error log and fix.

 

[Victor c]

Google AI has some pointer for the camshaft sensor fault code, which sounds like your issue https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw...ient=safari&iga=1&utm_campaign=safari_share_1