650 cutting out at low revs

Sounds like a choke / cold running problem I'll agree.

But it's not something that when it warms up, it reduces any gap that was there when it was cold ........

Clutching at straws, is the throttle play set up correctly?
 
just searching through the faq's over on f650.com. theres a couple of things left to try. Just a question first, you don't touch the throttle when starting the bike do you, that can throw the bike ecu out of whack, it reads throttle closed posistion at each startup. If you do it may be worth another bms reset. No corrosion on the bms connector is there (plus into the silver box under the front end of the seat)

loose battery terminals, obvious one i'd think

Air intake temp sensor loose or disconnected (the one on the snorkel)

clutch adjustment, seems to fit your symptoms :nenau
Check the Clutch Setting - Stalling Fix

by Nelson
30-May-02

Last week I did some electrical modifications on my '00 F650 GS. In the process I had disconnected the battery. When I finished the work and rode, about 5-10 minutes into the ride, the bike would stall, when braking and pulling in the clutch. I then rode for a while in semi-deserted streets to assess the exact conditions for stalling. Well, it seemed to occur only when braking and pulling in the clutch. Not every time, but only under these circumstances.

At home, I checked the FAQ and proceeded to try the stuff in the list by order. First, I reset the FI. This didn't work. It still stalled under the same conditions. Then I checked the chain and sprockets. They seemed fine to me (I've got 10000 miles no it now). Next, I checked the clutch adjustment. Well, I found out that the clutch adjustment at the crank case was 2 millimetres below spec. Hmmm, maybe this is the problem. I adjusted the clutch at both the crankcase and lever to within spec. Then I took the bike for the same shakedown. Whereas before the engine stalled always around the same spot, now it was impossible for me to stall it. I rode for at least half an hour more, doing exactly what I had done before and no stalling.

So, if your bike stalls when you brake and pull in the clutch, it might well be the clutch adjustment. Though, I still don't understand why. Nelson, Sojourner (Toronto).

See the Clutch Adjustment FAQ for details of how to adjust the Clutch.
Click to expand...

other than that the consensus is that its a dealer job, might be a software upgrade available and they'll be able to hook it up to the computer to see if there are any fault codes stored.
 
rc mad said:
just searching through the faq's over on f650.com. theres a couple of things left to try. Just a question first, you don't touch the throttle when starting the bike do you, that can throw the bike ecu out of whack, it reads throttle closed posistion at each startup. If you do it may be worth another bms reset. No corrosion on the bms connector is there (plus into the silver box under the front end of the seat)

loose battery terminals, obvious one i'd think

Air intake temp sensor loose or disconnected (the one on the snorkel)

clutch adjustment, seems to fit your symptoms :nenau


other than that the consensus is that its a dealer job, might be a software upgrade available and they'll be able to hook it up to the computer to see if there are any fault codes stored.
Click to expand...


I'm happy that the above are all ok, though the clutch thing looks like it's worth pursuing.

Thanks Val.
 
As said, usually happens if you try to turn the throttle during starting.

Remedy quite simple. always worked for me, and others....

Ignition off...

Ignition on without touching the throttle...

Now open the throttle to fully open and close.... do this three times and let the throttle close...

Now without touching the throttle until she fires start 'er 'up...

She'll be fine :thumb

:beerjug:

www.adventure.gs
 
My 650 had and idle problem but the other way. When I shut the throttle at a junction the revs could be any where between normal and about 2,500 RPM, I removed the little servo that controls the idle speed (mounted on the throttle body) and found it full of a soft grey matter.

This I cleaned with petrol.

From memory the servo drives a cone shape which controls the air flow to maintain the idle speed, perhaps yours is bloked too?

Once cleaned idle is more constant at about 1,600 when stationary.
 
Micky said:
As said, usually happens if you try to turn the throttle during starting.

Remedy quite simple. always worked for me, and others....

Ignition off...

Ignition on without touching the throttle...

Now open the throttle to fully open and close.... do this three times and let the throttle close...

Now without touching the throttle until she fires start 'er 'up...

She'll be fine :thumb

:beerjug:

www.adventure.gs
Click to expand...


I wish :( Thanks for the suggestion, but I've tried this a few times. The problem with this bike is something else sadly.



Tony Summers said:
My 650 had and idle problem but the other way. When I shut the throttle at a junction the revs could be any where between normal and about 2,500 RPM, I removed the little servo that controls the idle speed (mounted on the throttle body) and found it full of a soft Grey matter.

This I cleaned with petrol.

From memory the servo drives a cone shape which controls the air flow to maintain the idle speed, perhaps yours is blocked too?

Once cleaned idle is more constant at about 1,600 when stationary.
Click to expand...


Hmm, Something like you describe was suggested by the dealer today too, so I'll investigate it later on.

Cheers Val.
 
Tony Summers said:
My 650 had and idle problem but the other way. When I shut the throttle at a junction the revs could be any where between normal and about 2,500 RPM, I removed the little servo that controls the idle speed (mounted on the throttle body) and found it full of a soft grey matter.

This I cleaned with petrol.

From memory the servo drives a cone shape which controls the air flow to maintain the idle speed, perhaps yours is bloked too?

Once cleaned idle is more constant at about 1,600 when stationary.
Click to expand...


Well that worked a treat :( bike won't run for more than a few seconds now :nenau

Is there a special method to resetting it, or do you simply put it back in?


Val.
 
VAL. H. said:
Well that worked a treat :( bike won't run for more than a few seconds now :nenau

Is there a special method to resetting it, or do you simply put it back in?


Val.
Click to expand...

I never did any kind of reset. When you had it off the throttle body but electrically connected did you switch the ignition on and see it move?

I thought they cycled when the ignition is switched on, but I may be wrong.
 
Last edited:
OK after a very long wait we have found out what the problem is. After trying all of the above and lots more including hooking it up to the bmw computer at williams in manchester (which found nothing wrong too)it was eventually sorted out by taking a bit off an old bike and trying it on my wifes bike untill they found the offending bit. Eurekaaaaaaaa and the winner is...... Ignition Coil!!.. New one now fitted, bmw williams say the bike is now perfect :)
Good luck to all who have the same problem.
 
Yogi-GB said:
OK after a very long wait we have found out what the problem is. After trying all of the above and lots more including hooking it up to the bmw computer at williams in manchester (which found nothing wrong too)it was eventually sorted out by taking a bit off an old bike and trying it on my wifes bike untill they found the offending bit. Eurekaaaaaaaa and the winner is...... Ignition Coil!!.. New one now fitted, bmw williams say the bike is now perfect :)
Good luck to all who have the same problem.
Click to expand...


Well today we finaly found out our problem. Lamda probe sensor! (£129.00 + fitting :eek:) the BW computer picked up an oxygen problem in the exhaust gasses.
Now all I need to do is check the wiring for corrosion etc and the sensor itself.

Does any one know how or indeed if one can check the Lamda sensor?

Val.
 
I had the Lambda sensor pack up but it didn't effect the idling - I only realised it wasn't working when I ran a fault code test with the GS911.However having replaced it I now get better MPG and a cleaner exhaust pipe.I think when they fail the BMS resorts to a rich setting so maybe that's what's causing your idle problem.
Did the dealer diagnose the fault by exhaust gas analysis or by the fault code,there are specific ones relating to the Lambda.
In the absence of a fault code reader they can be tested by checking the voltage readings and the resistance of the heating element but I can't remember where I saw the data now.
I bought a generic replacement on Ebay,about £12 IIRC,and fitted the plug off the OEM.The manual states that you have to remove the exhaust to fit the sensor but I didn't need to,it was easy using a 22mm (I think) combination spanner.

Tony
 
talltony said:
I had the Lambda sensor pack up but it didn't effect the idling - I only realised it wasn't working when I ran a fault code test with the GS911.However having replaced it I now get better MPG and a cleaner exhaust pipe.I think when they fail the BMS resorts to a rich setting so maybe that's what's causing your idle problem.

Did the dealer diagnose the fault by exhaust gas analysis or by the fault code,there are specific ones relating to the Lambda.

In the absence of a fault code reader they can be tested by checking the voltage readings and the resistance of the heating element but I can't remember where I saw the data now.

I bought a generic replacement on Ebay,about £12 IIRC,and fitted the plug off the OEM.The manual states that you have to remove the exhaust to fit the sensor but I didn't need to,it was easy using a 22mm (I think) combination spanner.

Tony
Click to expand...

The fault was via the fault code reader, they showed me a printout from the reader. I didn't end up getting a copy as it happens. I might get them to post it.

Generic replacement; Do you have any more info on this, ie what I should be looking for etc?


Cheers Val.
 
talltony said:
I used the wiring diagrams from the ChainGang FAQs to check the continuity from the BMS to the Lambda:

http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Documentation_FAQ_GS.htm

scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Tony
Click to expand...


I don't suppose you remember which wire went where do you? I've been through the wiring and nothing seems amiss, so I'm guessing it's definitely the Lampda sensor.

Also did you have any difficulty getting the thing out of the exhaust?

Val.
 
I may still have a record of the colours and connections,I'll have a look tomorrow.You should be able to work out the + and - from the wiring diags. and the other two are the heater wires and can be connected either way.
Surprisingly I had no trouble unscrewing it from the exhaust - as I said earlier I didn't even have to remove the pipe from the bike.

Tony
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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