70w hid's over 55w

I would personally not touch it as it is coming direct from Hong Kong and has not been checked for safety by British standards, if it goes wrong it might be very difficult to put a claim
 
Instead of fitting 70w HID wire melters (6A on constant running but 9A on start-up), I would fit auxiliary HID projectors. Flood or pencil, depending on your tastes.

Lee
 
A bigger problem will be heat output, especially in an 1150 headlight.

In addition to of course, as the guys above have stated, you'll be on sketchy ground electrically.
 
Waste of time, the lowbeam on an 1150 is ok and the 50w is as good as you'll get out of it, the hi beam reflector is shite, no amount of uber wattage can overcome it. Spots is the way forward.
 
Flipfly said:
Waste of time, the lowbeam on an 1150 is ok and the 50w is as good as you'll get out of it, the hi beam reflector is shite, no amount of uber wattage can overcome it. Spots is the way forward.
Click to expand...
ok mate for some reason the low beam looks a darker blue than my high been but the bulbs a both the same temp 6000k
 
Massive Lee said:
4300k bulbs will give you a better light than a 6000k unit.

Lee
Click to expand...

Absolutely, but people still insist that that blue hue of 6k looks cool. personally I think the whiter look of 4300-4600k both look better and are far more effective. I've seen quite a few cars with 8-10k units in and they are almost purple (and completely useless).
 
I bought a 35w 5000k HID kit from HIDS4U.co.uk 3 years ago. It made a massive improvement over the original dipped beam bulb and I have to be careful not to dazzle oncoming drivers if I'm carrying a pillion, I use the adjuster. I did buy a new bulb holder as it needs a bit of adaption as the back of the bulb protudes further rearwards. I was worried that if the bulb failed I'd be left with no dipped beam as I'm too tight to carry a spare and they're hard wired, not easy to swap so I carry the original bulb and holder on the bike just in case and can swap back easily at the side of the road. The kit came with fairly comprehensive fitting instructions and they are uk based. I managed to fit the ballast driver in the beak near the indicator stalk. All in all I've been really pleased with the results as I used to dread night rides and now relish them. I've also fitted a pair of Rigid Industries LED Aux spot lights from ZEN Overland. Again these are fantastic, not cheap but beautifully finished. I dont think I've ever used my main beam since. I did replace the main beam bulb with a brighter halogen bulb that better colour matched the HID, I tried to keep the light colour white as I dont like the blue spectrum light. No problems with heat or wiring to report.
 
Not sure why you need to carry a spare bulb holder. If mine ever goes (had this happen with a cheap Chinese one many years ago on my first 1150) you just pop the his bulb out, undo the connectors and lol in a halogen bulb. No need to change any of the bulb holder or the wiring from the cap to bulb.

Who really cares how it got here?
 
moonhead911 said:
think ill just get a new set of bulbs 5000k or lower been looking at these on ebay they sell two different types h7 and h7r bulbs
H7 is a standard bulb, mainly used for projector type headlights.

H7R is the Anti Glare type, mainly used for reflector type headlights.

witch type would you recommend
link to the bulb's
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181789221...48&var=480730823821&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

thanks
Click to expand...


Erm....you do realise those are replacement HID bulbs, so you'll also need the ballast and so on?
They're not replacement bulbs for the standard filament type :)

BTW I totally agree with Flip.....the reflector has, and always will be the problem with the GS light units....a 'fast on' HID kit will be a lot better than the OEM bulbs, but the only way to reach significantly further down the road is to go to auxilliary lights....a pair of floods for wide angle illumination and either spots (AKA 'Euro pattern' for some reason :nenau) or driving lights for long range on main beam...'Euro' or spots tend to be a beam angle of around 15 to 20 degrees and the 'driving light' beam is usually around 10-12 degrees.

For 'normal' use, Euro is probably better to supplement the main beam on the whole :beerjug:

beam-patterns.jpg
 
PM Les Wassall!

H7 or H7R is not what makes a good bulb. I have a pair of ceramic bulbs from Les with a fat ballast on the main beam (no point of having a fast ballast on the low beam. The dipped beam reflector on the 1150 is actually very good and the beam pattern is very accurate with HIDs installed. The main beam is the big issue and it is full beam where only aux lights will help. I am not one for spending money needlessly, I like nothing more than a bargain, but I wouldn't use anything but the HID kit from Les as it is leagues ahead of 90% of the ebay stuff.
 

Attachments

  • oncoming.jpg
    oncoming.jpg
    80.4 KB · Views: 134
  • GS front view.jpg
    GS front view.jpg
    72.4 KB · Views: 156
les is on hid50.com I think
otherwise he's on here
les wassel
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom