800GS Chain adjust.

[ronecc]

Silly question I know, but, do I adjust the chain whilst bike is on centre stand or side stand? Handbook says side stand, and sticker on swing arm says adjust without load.
First chain since 1972, shaft drive since, so I am a bit thick on current ways with chain.

 

[johnboy]

For me I used the cntre stand as it allows you to check the tension on different parts of the chain by rotating the back wheel. I suppose side stand would have to be mentioned in the manual as an option as the bike does not come with centre stand as standard.

The "load bit" must be wrong as you would then need tow to check the chain.

Silly question I know, but, do I adjust the chain whilst bike is on centre stand or side stand? Handbook says side stand, and sticker on swing arm says adjust without load.
First chain since 1972, shaft drive since, so I am a bit thick on current ways with chain.

 

[ronecc]

Thanks johnboy. I will do it on the centre stand. Just cleaned and lubed, so a little tension is required now, I think. What do you consider a good cleaner. the dealer I bought it from sold me a tin of Castrol, saying the muck would just run off when sprayed. It dosn't, I still have to give it a good rub, and worry that I am rubbing the grit back in. I have seen a Muck Off kit that has small roller brushes in a container that you fit to the spray can and clamp over the chain. Trouble is, I have used the Muck Off cleaner on the bike and do not find that much good. Any experience with this unit anyone?

 

[chas820]

Adjust on the centre stand but check on the side stand as when the weight comes on the swing arm the chain can tighten.Clean the chain with Parafin and a brush,cheap as chips and it doesn`t harm the seals.

 

[HTB1]

Chain Adjustment

IMHO, Adjustment is done on the side stand, no load refers to no luggage or anyone sat on the bike. No doubt other experts will be along soon with their own version of the manual.

 

[ronecc]

Thanks chas820. Isn't it amazing how you easily forget the simple things in life when you are bombarded with all this new fangled technology. Must put some paraffin on my shopping list.
I have got 3.5cm slack on my chain, so will leave it alone for now.

 

[Greggers]

Harry's the only one close so far IMHO ...

Clean the chain with paraffin or kerosine, use an old nail brush or some other stiff brush to get the claggy old lube out from between the sideplates - don't be tempted to use a wire brush otherwise you'll fook up the o-rings (if any are left). If the chain's really gritty, then you could use a degreaser and a hosepipe to knock the solid sh!t off ... then dry it with an old towel or rag - don't use your missus's tea-towels, she'll be p!ssed off if you do - DAMHIKT!

By now you chain will be clean and shiny and possibly a little bit rattly and dry, so lube it up while it's loose with a quality chain lube like BelRay - personally I'd steer away from the 'wax' lubes and stuck with a goold old grease/oil based preparation.

Once the chain's lubed again, you can set to adjusting it. If the chain's been on the bike for a few miles, then it will probably have worn a little bit, which shows itself as slackness in the chain - if you're lucky it it even aloing the chain's length, but usually it will wear more in one point (sometimes due to sprocket ratios) which will make it more slack in one section. Check this by raising the rear wheel off the ground and turning it while pushing up on the lower chain run - don't use the engine to do this!! If the chain is unevenly worn then you'll find a 'tight spot' which is where you'll need to measure the slack for correct adjustment (if you measure slack when it's at its loosest point then it will be too tight at the tight spot) Get it so far?

Check the manual, but the plate on the guard says 35-45mm slack, I've had it on the centre stand to adjust it, and assume that if you do it on the side stand, then you'll have to lift it a little to relieve the load on the shock. So, turn the wheel so that the chain is at its tightest point, loosen the axle nut and the adjuster lock nuts, then use the adjuster bolt to push the axle backwards which will tighten the chain - you might be surprised at how little adjustment is needed...

Tighten the adjuster lock-nut and push the wheel hard forward against the adjuster as you tighten the axle nut. Check for correct tension again and re-adjust if necessary.

If the chain is still excessively loose at it's slackest point when correctly adjusted at the tight spot, then it's knackered and needs replacing.

A correctly adjusted Scottoiler is great here too....

G

 

[lllBlll]

I adjust the chain while using the side stand. This is the method used in the Haynes manual. The guy in this you tube video also uses and recommends the side stand (after 5:30 min.), but I do think he adjusts it a bit tight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kozpLOqbO2U&feature=player_embedded

 

[chrisjk]

The main thing to be concerned about is that the chain is not too tight when the swing arm is in the position that stretches the chain to its maximum possible extent.

To check this, put the bike on its centre stand and then use a jacking tie-down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat to compress the rear shock and lift the swingarm into the above mentioned position. An inch and a half of slack at this point will be fine and you can be sure you won't over-tension the chain on the bumps.

 

[ronecc]

Heck! Now I know why I stuck to shaft drive all these years. 'Till it goes wrong that is.

 

[Greggers]

The main thing to be concerned about is that the chain is not too tight when the swing arm is in the position that stretches the chain to its maximum possible extent.

To check this, put the bike on its centre stand and then use a jacking tie-down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat to compress the rear shock and lift the swingarm into the above mentioned position. An inch and a half of slack at this point will be fine and you can be sure you won't over-tension the chain on the bumps.

That's why they say 35-45mm deflection at its tightest point, which accommodates the geometric lengthening of the chain run when the suspension is at max compression. If you compress the suspension then adjust per manual, the chain will be waaaay too loose,

G

 

[chrisjk]

That's why they say 35-45mm deflection at its tightest point, which accommodates the geometric lengthening of the chain run when the suspension is at max compression. If you compress the suspension then adjust per manual, the chain will be waaaay too loose,

G

You are right of course! I had a brain fart - I meant to say make sure there is a touch of slack at this point.