950 / 990 Adventure oil tank drain mod

(RIP) Tunneruk

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I love my 950, I really love my 950!
But ..... I'm sick and tired of the ridiculous oil tank drain situation so I decided to do something about it. I'd already stripped the bike down for a big 42,000 mile birthday including oil pump housing, locking ever, valve clearances, carb balance, swing arm out and re-grease, Refreshed rear shock bushes, fuel pump points, alarmectomy .... etc etc

Anyhoo .... In my head I was struggling with parting with £50+ for the ready made kit so I decided to make my own.

I ordered up the bits and set to work!

IMG_8822 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_8825 by tunneruk, on Flickr

I did clean this up further before I fitted the pipe ......

IMG_8826 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_8841 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_8844 by tunneruk, on Flickr

I fitted a split grommet around the pipe before I final fitted the plate ..

IMG_8846 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_8848 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_8849 by tunneruk, on Flickr

_MG_7369 by tunneruk, on Flickr

I bolted it all back together, put 3lt of oil in it and ran her up, carefully checking for leaks, all good. I then topped the oil tank up and accidentally overfilled the tank half way up the stick .... Not to worry, I drained 250ml out using my new tap in about 20 seconds!!!!
I will say that it's not a fast flowing as the original drain plug but if you set it draining (which is a 30 second job) then by the time you've done the oil screen and replaced the filter the tank would be fully drained;)

I can't wait to get the next 4000 miles out of the way so I can change the oil again!! :D
 
Nice job.
Few questions:-
What thread is in the tank where the hose tail screws in?
Why did you cut the hose tail?
Why cut it at an angle?
Would a 90-degree fitting or even a banjo bolt arrangement not be better and reduce the need to make the cutting for the hose to pass downwards?
 
Chris,
Just a quick suggestion for you.
Drill a small hole in the plastic lever, and fit a cable tie to stop it vibrating to the open position, or fit the valve the other way round so that the open position is pointing up.

DAMHIK

Neil
 
Chris,
Just a quick suggestion for you.
Drill a small hole in the plastic lever, and fit a cable tie to stop it vibrating to the open position, or fit the valve the other way round so that the open position is pointing up.

DAMHIK

Neil

A plug fitted at the end of the hose could act as a fail-safe...
 
Nice job.
Few questions:-
1 .What thread is in the tank where the hose tail screws in?
2 .Why did you cut the hose tail?
3. Why cut it at an angle?
4, Would a 90-degree fitting or even a banjo bolt arrangement not be better and reduce the need to make the cutting for the hose to pass downwards?

Its M12 x 1.5
I cut the hose tail to ease clearance when the sump guard is up
The angled cut is to help the flow of oil as the hose bends slightly when the upper sump plate is fitted
There isn't enough space for a 90 degree fitting to turn while winding it in and a banjo bolt arrangement of that size wouldn't have a big enough bore for the oil to flow out


Chris,
Just a quick suggestion for you.
Drill a small hole in the plastic lever, and fit a cable tie to stop it vibrating to the open position, or fit the valve the other way round so that the open position is pointing up.

The open position IS pointing up and the valve has more than enough resistance that it won't open itself, it's a tighter operation than the fuel tap next to it. In addition to this, the lever is held in position by the tank levelling pipe so can't physically move unless the sump guard is dropped.
 
Looks like a great mod for oil changes.:clap - you should sell it to Touratech.

Just ensure the hose you've bought is oil and temp impervious too.(obviously not knowing what spec you chose) - Hopefully its hydraulic hose.
 
Looks like a great mod for oil changes.:clap - you should sell it to Touratech.

Just ensure the hose you've bought is oil and temp impervious too.(obviously not knowing what spec you chose) - Hopefully its hydraulic hose.

Cheers fella :D

150 psi and 250 degrees rated.

Ironically, because the oil doesn't run through it and it's below the oil tank, the oil inside it doesn't get very warm at all, the hottest temperature it'll reach will be determined by it's surroundings within the sump guard ..... right next to the fuel line!
 
Cheers fella :D

150 psi and 250 degrees rated.

Ironically, because the oil doesn't run through it and it's below the oil tank, the oil inside it doesn't get very warm at all, the hottest temperature it'll reach will be determined by it's surroundings within the sump guard ..... right next to the fuel line!

I shouldn't have mentioned it....knowing how pragmatic your rebuilds etc are...:thumb2

But some folks have been caught out before..!!
 
Brilliant mod for fast oil changes. It didn't seem to slow the bike down on Sunday either!
 


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