A few issues- pivot seal and random connectors

[Dusty]

got these 3 seperate plugs , postioned on the right side of the bike. They werent connected to anything rear lights etc all connected and working ... not sure what they are for , any ideas.....

Second issue is i peeled back the gaitor on the final drive to have a black gloop come out.... ive checked the gearbox oil and its clean as a whistle and up to the threads.. only changed it in summertime, the final drive is a bit low. I did notice when i changed this that it was overfilled as it came pumping out when i undid the filler bolt.

ive not checked the gaiter since i bought over a year ago...so that oil could have been in there for ages....

questions is how much of a ballache is it to remove the final drive and replce the seal or is it best to remove it and send it off for a replacement/repair..

thoughts appreciated

dusty

 

[MikeO]

Difficult to see in your pic - but one looks to be circular in cross section - I think that's the lambda sensor; the rectangular one with the wire lock is probably the air temp sensor (on top of the airbox).

Post close ups of the three plugs and I'll have a proper guess...

 

[Canuck]

I suspect one is a diagnostic plug from bmw workshop brain. As shown here...the bottom one with the bigger connector. I think.

 

[ahutcheon]

A small amount of oil in the gaitor isn't necessarily a worry, or a sign that the seal needs replacing.

 

[fatnfast]

With regards to the oil leak, with the gaitor peeled back have a look up the drive shaft tunnel to check its not leaking from the rear gearbox oil seal. A torch and mirror will help give a good view. There will be obvious oil residue if its leaking from here going up the tunnel. Its unlikely that this will be the problem, but worth checking.
The most likely cause is the bevel box input seal. Steptoe has a good guide on here. It could be the seal breathing a little maybe due to to much oil, clean it out and keep an eye on the bevel box level.
If you have to remove it its not a hard job and has been well documented on here. Once off, changing the seal requires lots of torque and a decent castle type socket.

 

[Dusty]

Thanks for the feedback folks... ive leaned up the area and will watch it carefully... i suspect that it was as a result of being over full before i got to it....

Mike everything is connected and thss three are bukshee... i suspect one is to do with the rear brake light switch possibly... im rebuilding now so will wait and see what doesnt work..

Cheers again

Dusty