A GS'ers journey through Morocco

Tim, it's Firebird not Firefly!! :thedummy Thanks for the name check though. It was good to speak english for a change. Did bump into some other GSers on airheads in Midelt.

Glad to see the trip went well.
 
Oops, sorry Firebird:D

So we left Erg Chebbi and took the piste to Rissani and turned west on the tarmac for Alnif.
Heading north on the piste from Alnif towards Tinerhir we soon found the piste had been ruined and turned into a graded road so although disappointing we made good time to Tinerhir.
We were due to stay in Tinerhir again so need to salvage some good riding for the day, we blasted off west to El-kelaa M'Gouna headed north through the Valley of Roses area to a lovely piste which joins the Dades Gorge at Ait-Youl.
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The view was a bit hazy but worth it none the less:)
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In places the sand was like talcum powder, there's only one way to ride it but even then with a laden GS it can go wrong:blast
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But Adrians in the groove now:thumb
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A great ride followed down to the Dades
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Then another blast back to Tinerhir a good meal and some wine:augie

Mark H tells us stories which have us in stitches:D , Mark G after a bit of wine tells us stories that are...well lets just say they were fairly drawn out:confused: almost at the point of sleep zzzzz I said ...
"Mark, you probably had to be there" a phrase which was then repeatedly used to cut it short every time he started one of his yarns:D :P :P
 
The next day promised to be a good long ride:)
First, my favourite piste from Tinerhir over Tizi-n-Tazzert to Nekob then the piste which runs down the Draa Valley east of the main road to Zagora.

After an early start we were soon at one of my favourite views, so here's a couple of photos from there.
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This was my fifth ride along this piste and I always stop for a photo here:thumb
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Rick takes in the view, the last time we were there we had to ride down the steep far side and out to Nekob in the dark:cool:
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At the top we have mint tea with a lady who instantly recognises me from previous visits. It's amazing that she probably spends most of her life there while we rush around in our own lives.
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Those who have travelled this way will have shared these stunning views.

The descent is quite steep and rocky with big drops and hairpins.
Ian Peter PerfectB is riding down one handed and with his camera set to video, he arrives at a tight hairpin in 2nd gear the bikes begining to stall and he can't get his hand on the clutch...you can guess the rest:thumb and I think Mark G has a photo to prove that Ian is not infallable:P :P :D :D
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The last part of the climb up to the Tizi-n-Tazzert had been very rocky and demanding, the ride down was not quite as bad but it seems to go on for a very long time causing arms and wrists to ache.
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Mark G safely with his helmet on so he can't tell us any of his stories (you probably had to be there):thumb
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Although the light wasn't perfect the scenery causes us to stop frequently to take it in.
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At last we reach the valley floor and the going is easier.
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Mark H and Ian enjoy the flat riding.
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But there's one last climb out of the valley and onto the high plains which lead to Nekob. You can just about see a GS on the track.
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Mark H riding with style:thumb :cool:
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Stopping for a breather and the kids clamber up the steep rocky hillside just in time for us to leave:P
In the last two photos you can see the storm clouds chasing us off the mountain, we escape them this time.
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Coffee, coke and and omelette at the Ziz garage in Nekob and it's time for a short run west on the tarmac to the piste for Zagora.
The clouds are black and threatening over our right shoulder, but we are soon to turn south where there is blue sky so getting wet will only be short lived.
The piste down the Draa is the old road which passes through or around the many old villages that have grown around the relatively fertile valley floor.
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The skies return to blue and we enjoy some varied riding, at times quite demanding over rough rocks.
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Mark H take a little tumble on nast bit of rocky climb but he's ok:clap
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Then a bit of bad luck and it happens again, it's getting late in the day and we're all tired.
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This piste gives several opportunities to get onto the main road so we head back through the palmery towards it.
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Of course we can't not have our photo taken here;)
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And so to the Fibule du Draa, my favourite where there's familiar, friendly faces, beer and food and the passing through of travellers.
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This was to be our last evening all together:( :( , the two Marks were to head for Marrakech the next day and up the coast into Spain the following day, but that's their story.
I was with sadness that we watched them leave what had been a fine group of six tossers the next morning....but they reminded us that they would soon be home having night time 'cous cous' with their girlys;) ..Bastids:D

That left us with others who may have been thinking of home......
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With the two Marks heading north we were now four and had a relatively easy day around Zagora, we still have a lot to do:)

We meet three friendly French guys (not as rare as you may think:D ), two are on this well sorted airhead outfit complete with sandladders and all the spares etc. They told us that laden it weighed around 500kg:eek: the other was on a solo airhead.
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Very trick:thumb, even 'Ricky bling' was impressed:D
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We set off east out of Zagora to complete the southern section of the piste we were on yesterday. To be honest the riding was very stoney and not pleasant.
Arriving at the town of Benizouli we park up in the shade and are surrounded by inquisitive children. I have a little trick to break the ice with them, Ian knows whats coming;)
I tell them in French "ssshhh, there's a little bird who lives under the beak of my bike", quietly and cautiously they one by one put their heads under the beak to see, the ignition is already on and a loud blast from the Stebel Nautilus scatters them in fright:green gri :D :D :thumb
We all laugh, including the children, we have communicated fun on a childs level and the atmosphere between us is warm.:)
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So back to Zagora to eat, get to the bank and drink more beer and rest in the fabulous Fibule du Draa before the next leg of our journey in the morning.
 
The next days destination is Tata to our west, but first we have the desert piste to Foum Zguid. This is yet another of the classic pistes which will soon be lost to the road builders:( so enjoy them while you can.
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Finding shade is not always easy so we make the best of it and enjoy the tranquility of this beutiful place.
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Lunch in Foum Zguid and we could have taken the piste to Tata via Akka-Irhen but although very scenic through the twisted Anti Atlas I know much has been graded so we opt for the true desert tarmac road to the south.

We hardly see a soul for 70km then at the first village of Tissint a policeman steps out of the shade and demands my passport. We're left standing on the tarmac in the heat, eventually he comes back and hands me my passport but says nothing and begins checking the occupants of a bus that has just arrived. we all look at each other, can we go or what:nenau
It's getting hot waiting for him, I ask him if we can go:bow he waves me away with a flick of his hand and says yes there is no problem......why the feck didn't you tell me then I thought:rolleyes:

Of course we're all ruffy tuffy bikers by now and all our spare time at the end of a days ride is spent carefully planning the next days route..;)
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Paying great attention to the detail..
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In tough surroundings at Tata..
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We spend every spare moment fettling our bikes for the next days ride:augie
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The next days route is to Tafroute via Igherm. There are two main routes to Igherm, either the stunning tarmac route which swings out to the west or the fantastic piste which we all enjoyed last year....but...
The mountains are stunning around here, it's really 'The Hills Have Eyes' country.
The new tarmac continues much further that last year and we stop for a smoke in the shade.
In the silence we hear a womans voice singing.
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We press on to Souk-Tieta-de-Tagmoute and what had been one of the great pistes I've ridden in the past. Bugger it's all been graded with a deep layer of chippings over the top, the first few hairpins are taken with caution as we climb up higher and higher.
Ian show his contempt for the ruined piste and blasts off like a speedway rider, despite the great views we don't even stop for a photo.

After a coffee and fag (or smoke for any Americans reading:ymca ) in Igherm, we are again stopped by the police, he asks where we are going and wants to see my fuel guage. Satisfied we have full tanks for the twisty ride he wishes us well and we head for the lovely Tafroute region.

On the way I very nearly get taken out by a truck:eek: , but hey, a miss is as good as a mile:thumb
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Excellent write up & pics (especially the first one) :thumb2 Keep it coming Tim - I'm just slipping out to get a sandwich but I'll be back shortly :D
 
timolgra said:
Mark G safely with his helmet on so he can't tell us any of his stories (you probably had to be there):thumb

You do of course realise that there will be retribution for that, don't you Tim :green gri

Cracking write up though :clap :clap , don't think mine will be out til around christmas :(
Mark
 
Tafroute is wonderful, we arrive early afternoon and buy a picnic lunch from the patiserie in town for later.
To make up for the 'improved' piste in the morning we then head straight for gorge and palmery to the south which gives a nice loop back to Tafroute. This route was shown to me two years ago by a mountain guide who climbs with Chris Bonnington amongst others in the region, by chance we meet up again in the evening.
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We stop for a lunch of fresh bread, sardines, mackeral and cheese, Adrian shows us his culinary talents:)
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It's mainly spectacular but easy riding on a piste through the palm trees in a deep gorge which opens out occasionally.
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With just a few tricky bits.
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:)
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Oh go on then, just one more photo:rose
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Then back via great route to Tafroute. It's been a long day so a shower and cold beer or several go down well at the hotel before going out on the town for dinner.:beer:
 
We study some hand drawn maps of the area and Ian shows me a photo copied article from Trail Bike Magazine which describes a piste done a few years ago by two guys on Yamaha TTR250s. Well we're hardened bikers by now and ready for anything:nono :augie
We've gained a bit of time, about half a day, so a plan is hatched. That nights destination is changed from Taliouine to Aoulouz with good reason.

Setting out north of Tafroute we take a road not shown on the Michelin maps but is shown on the GPS. It took us up to some fine places.
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Around 8km before the town of Tanalt there is a piste which is again being 'improved' over Tiz-n-Tagounit through Ait-Iftene and to the main Agadir road.
It struck me as being the most beautiful part of Morocco I've seen and in 6 trips there perhaps had been searching for such a lovely place. We didn't take many photos, just enjoyed the sounds of birds, the smell of wild flowers. I guess others felt the same since many of the homes were well built and appeared relatively affluent.
If I were a hippy I would say the place had a good vibe man:thumb

On this photo you can see the switch back piste we had decended and one day it will all be either graded or even tarmac, either way, if you're ever there be sure to visit.:thumb
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:augie
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Eventually we're back on the road to Agadir.
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To cut the corner off what be a big dog leg we turn right on some small roads at around Imi-Mqourn and out in the countryside we see these goats in trees.
I screach to a stop, this is something I had only seen pictures of and always had an eye open for...I was very excited:clap :clap
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A while later we stop for a break under a tree with no goats:thumb
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By now we were getting hungry and inspired by the goats Ian donned his jacket to protect him from the sharp thorns then climbed high into the tree (top left):D :D
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Ray Mears has nothing on us for resourcefulness:thumb
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