A loop round the Baltic sea

Davey B

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Probably triggering some of you as it involves a motorhome and push bikes......so there you go, you can ignore it from hereon in....

Went to Finland and Norway via the Baltics…so after visiting the kids and grandkids it was France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Finland, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Luxembourg then home.

7 weeks, 9000 miles, 100s of tunnels…Norwegian engineers are staggeringly good at thinking thru ‘problems’. A few hundred miles of cycling, a few tens of miles of walking/hiking.



The 3 small Baltic countries were lovely.

Finland is awesome, the people are incredibly friendly…the further North you get, the more it feels like proper wilderness. We got to 25 yds from Russia…across a river.

Had a natter with Santa at his official home in Rovaniemi on the Arctic circle….which was genuinely great…we had chatted about a few things on the journey so far ‘I wonder how many…’ etc….obviously the same things everyone thinks of and asks him as he told us all the answers without even asking the questions…Santa just knows….. Could have bought photos and a video of our 10 minute chat (no one else there and we had a really good natter..his beard is real as are his eyebrows) but it was a “How much !?” moment.



Saw the midnight sun at Nordkapp at bang on midnight. (together with hundreds of zee Germans off a cruise ship….)

Saw reindeer…gets a bit like seeing sheep in Wales tho…

Saw Moose

Saw many white tailed (sea) eagles…stunning to watch.

Got to 71º N, now back at 45º N

Here’s some pics.

Great trip, felt like an adventure the further North we got (which we far preferred to the more touristy southern bits/fjords…yeah, I know, we’re tourists too)

Some stuff is way overhyped (Nordkapp, Atlantic Road, Lofoten etc)…..other ‘unhyped’ stuff was fabulous (Island of Senja, north of Lofoten….just the common or garden tunnels with roundabouts in them, or bridge to tunnel to bridge etc….



Europe has great cycle paths (Unna, Germany)



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Bad Saarow, former East Germany



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Other side of the same road…



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Lithuania



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Latvia





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Roadside café on route to Estonia….the owner was a video game nut…well over 100 of them in there….buy some food and get a few tokens…I really could have stayed for hours, it was ace.



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Tallinn, Estonia



Lovely city. Great quirky campsite, would be great with kids (we try to stay about 10 miles outside cities, then cycle in or take public transport. Didn’t take long to twig that in many countries you can leave a few ££ of pushbikes locked with a moderate quality lock for hours on end and simply not worry…..



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Ferry to Helsinki



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Finland



Helsinki is an awesome city, like the Baltic countries and Norway, stuff seems to be done ‘for the people’. So the main library in the city has several different things you can borrow besides books…musical instruments and a room to do some recording/playing, a room (several actually) to ‘game’ in. A couple of full pro kitchens and accompanying table and stuff so that if you live in a pokey flat, you can cook for friends or family and have a dinner party. People just go and chill in the library, grab a coffee in the café there etc….(Norway was similar)

We saw thousands of well sited picnic benches and also little wooden cabins with firepits…for anyone to go and use. We also saw dozens of fish prepping places for those (many Finnish do it) who fish and want to take their catch home (or to the library to cook it)

It is a superb country.



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North up through Finland



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On the way to see Santa…



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Met a lovely couple (he was welsh, wife was Greek) on this 35yr old GS, Camping most of the time….kept seeing them, hundreds of miles away from the last ‘sighting’…so few roads and big distances.



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Into NE Norway and its border with Russia. Weird seeing place names I recall from being a kid and the usual East/West stuff….



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Chatted to a Norwegian squaddie here. He was doing National service and loved it. Had spent 5 months at this place (an obs point, one half a mile away with the Ruskies doing the same…except for no tourists on the Ruskie side) Coldest in winter was minus 40….plus some wind chill..so minus 55 ish, he had 1 month left then was returning to college to improve his grades and join up for real to be a medic. Bright, cheerful lad. We wished him well.



End of the world feel to it….



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Near Vardo…the most Easterly point we went (further East than Istanbul)

These were dotted about the place…yup, it had somewhere to light a fire and a bit of firewood (plus something to light it with)



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End of May, still a lot of snow



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5 past midnight at Nordkapp….which really is just a tick in a box. The road to get there was stunning, the scenery also, but not the crowds (yup…of which we were two)



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Now heading South in Norway (some are out of sync, geographically)



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Same bridge….deceptive



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The famed Atlantic Road…



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Leaving Lofoten for the mainland (another free ferry. We took 9 ferries, 3 were free, the other 6 cost us £36 in total, other tolls came to £35…we incorrectly thought we’d be paying a fortune to travel here….£1.40 a litre fuel..£15 campsites when we stayed on them, otherwise free, food was a bit more expensive…coffee and cake for 2…£15)



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Some of the ferries are electric with swivelling twin engine thingies…..very manoeuvrable. They pull in and the cable automatically connects with the ship and adds a bit of juice….ingenious but I now expect nothing less of the Norwegians



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Coffee and cake….



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Trondheim



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One of the few remaining Stave Churches (we passed a few, all looked pretty similar)



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Loads of cool bus stops for those bus wankers like us…



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We cycled 35 miles of the Navvies road to Flam…stunning.



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Geilo Cathedral. Geilo is a wintersports town, quite a nice spot.



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Came back via Denmark (boring flatlands), a bit of Germany, Hamlyn…and Luxembourg (nice country, nice capital)



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And Toul, in France



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Saw a few truck based expedition type campers



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And a few nice old cars



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Lada owner (a young lad) was genuinely proud as punch of his car (Finnish)



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Best thing for a scooby…



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(Got home to a dead car battery and a dead septic tank pump…bollox)
 
VERY nice indeed ... looks like you had a soooper time of it. Will need to go back and have another look at some of those photos .. especially the Lofoten ones.
Thank you for posting.:cool:
 
Fantastic trip and write up! :thumb2
 
Great trip, photo's and narrative. Thanks for taking the time to post it (y)
 
Thanks chaps, to be honest I try to post a 'trip report' on one of 3 forums for most decent trips....selfishly for me to re-look at in the years to come rather cos I'm nice and share things...... (They're a great way of keeping a trip 'alive' if you like...)
 
Nice trip Davey.
 
Thank you for sharing Davey.
We did a similar trip in 2019, ours was the other way round and didn't involve cycling though.

I was amazed how the Baltic states had progressed massively since the last time I was there in 2004.
 
@Davey B
Thanks for sharing your photos and comments (those coffees and cake prices are just like London!).

You covered an awful lot of ground and seem to have relished in the people contact - and isn't that what it's really all about?!

I can fully appreciate the concern of those Baltic states that Putin quite possibly, hasn't quite finished with his expansionism.

You mentioned 'familiar names from childhood' and I'm reminded of the notorious Halifax-Murmansk convoys and all who gave their lives.

Wonderful that your bikes greatly extended your range and discoveries. Being healthy is a gift to cherish.

Again, many thanks for sharing and for encouraging others.
 
You mentioned 'familiar names from childhood' and I'm reminded of the notorious Halifax-Murmansk convoys and all who gave their lives.
My parents watching the news and mention always made of Gdanks and Lech Walesa, many other eastern bliock countries and queues of (mainly women) outside shops/bakeries. Obviously had a lasting effect on my memories...45-50 yrs later
 
Really surprised me when we went to the old East German areas on the North German coastline (around Ruegen Island , Peenemunde area ) a lot of the architecture was very American Colonial with painted wooden houses with porches and the rest was either large old brick Hanseatic League style buildings or monolithic Soviet era accommodation blocks.
Beautiful area though and well worth a visit
 
Excellent trip report and many thanks for sharing it with us....I'm looking forward to visiting the Baltic States later this summer.
 
If Carlsberg did motorhome tours...
Stunning landscapes and towns on a long route certainly off the beaten track (for me anyway). Great photos and report. :thumb2
 
Thanks for writing that up, and the pictures really tell the story.

Beautiful and fascinating at the same time.
 
Nice write-up & pics, thanks :thumb
Norway is definitely on the list for a visit in the van sometime
 


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