A Rajasthani Bimble

Did the chap in the first picture with the bandage around his head fall of or was he hit ?
No idea, he rode into the petrol station like that. He had a very old and fascinating looking character riding pillion, but he didn't want to hang around or be photographed.

I'm using my phone (Samsung S20) for pictures. Brought my RX100 iv but haven't taken it out of the case yet, purely because the phone is so easy and quick to use.
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No idea, he rode into the petrol station like that. He had a very old and fascinating looking character riding pillion, but he didn't want to hang around or be photographed.

I'm using my phone (Samsung S20) for pictures. Brought my RX100 iv but haven't taken it out of the case yet, purely because the phone is so easy and quick to use.
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Thanks, it’s a very good camera & you have an eye for composition … cheers


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Day 9:

A short day, but one which nearly saw 2 of us wiped out by stupid and erratic car drivers. I can only guess at the number of fatalities they have here on the roads.

One of the things I haven't mentioned yet is perhaps one if the most impactful. The olfactory senses when riding into a village are off the scale. Within ten seconds, you get whiffs of incense.......pish.....vegetable oil.......sewage.......burning rubber.....cattle......mixed spices......and so on. You go from hungry to heaving before you've cleared the first 30 feet, or vice versa.

I've been reflecting much on the difference between cities and rural villages, which are stark. The poverty is common, but the conservative culture isn't, at least in most places. The legal age for marriage here is 21 for rnen and 18 for women, but I'm sure that scant regard is paid to that outside major cities, judging by some of the young women we've seen. Face covering is common and once a dowry has been paid by the proposed husband's family ( The dowry is apparently paid as the bride will go to live with her mother in law and in effect, be an unpaid house assistant - our guide used the word "slave") the bride is expected to cover her face with a mesh veil when outside. Honour killings are still rife as is domestic violence, with no chance of redress. The village culture is set by the elders - all men. Having said all that, this morning we met and talked to 2 modern, educated young women, but they weren't at the bottom of the cast system.

I wandered into a barber shop last night. Head and face shave (New blade to avoid Hepatitis!) for £3.50, probably 3 times the local rate. At the end, his take on "Something for the weekend sir" was an offer of several boxes of viagra. Failing that he also had sleeping pills, diazepam tramadol etc.

The road conditions here are still bloody infuriating. 2km of new tarmac......9 inch drop onto loose shale for 50m then 300m of tarmac......, another ridge, 25m of compacted sand, huge lip onto 1km of concrete. Just finish one bloody job FFS. I sound like Mrs M to be fair.

Only a 140km today, a 4 hour ride with a couple of short stops. First village some kid gave us the middle finger, which was really unusual, then 100m later some bloke ran across the street straight at me screaming something as I was tail end Charlie. No idea what he was unhappy about, but a short while later a dog also tried running at me and biting me, not funny in a country where rabies isn't uncommon. Two near misses later, one for me, one for the guy in front and I was glad to get to the hotel.

A tiger safari then ensued. We saw tiger breakfast, lunch and dinner but no tigers. Jaipur tomorrow, the pink city and I'll be keeping an eye out for Itchy Boots on her Himalayan.
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Day 10:

A short ride to Jaipur, where the traffic was again insane. Today was sadly notable for the number of canine roadkill victims, which was into double figures.

We stopped for fuel and whilst queueing, a weird, body less truck pulled in. As we found over the next few hours, this area is full of them. They all sound really rough and you can hear them coming a mile away. That is, unless there's an Indian tractor driver anywhere in a 3 mile radius. Tractor drivers here almost without exception, mount a pair of lo fi speakers on the wheel arches and play Bangra music at volume 11 everywhere they go. It's ear shattering.

Jaipur is possibly the dirtiest city we've seen on the whole trip. I was really looking forward to getting here, but it's a bit grim in reality.

Last day on the bikes tomorrow. The trip has certainly made some memories.

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Final day, just in case anyone is still reading this!

All finished and in our hotel and I'm not ashamed to say I was a bit emotional as we pulled in to finish. It's taken a lot out of me physically and psychologically and I'm pleased I got through in one piece with an undamaged bike. Frankly, it's something of a miracle.

Left the hotel early doors and rode via the City lake to the Amber Fort. It was a shortish 120km to finish via a local village barber shop that charged me 30p for a cut throat razor shave.

The trip company were Vintage Rides and the cost was just under 3 grand, plus 400 quid for a single room. Flights were extra, but virtually all the food was included, so only beer to pay for. If you don't drink, £25 per day would ne more than enough as a budget. Fuel was included, but tips for guide, driver and nechanic added around £120.

Tips for anyone facing it:

November to February are good months, not too hot and little rain.

Personally, I'd buy some 2nd hand motocross mesh armour if I was doing it again. I used my vented Dianese gear, but it was a tad warm at times when off the bike. An open face lid is fine and I wore short boots as did everyone else.

Food was fairly mild and catered for the French. I found it a bit bland in the most part. Much of it is vegetarian. The chicken is generally tough as old boots, the mutton great.

Luggage is carted round for you and cold water bottles handed out every hour or so. I used my phone camera, a couple brought compacts. The phone pics were handy as we all shared photos every night via the WhatsApp group.

I brought some cash, most places take cards. Plenty of ATM's about although some didn't take UK or EU cards. Changing money was easy.

I over packed as I expected to be very sweaty. Weirdly, I didn't sweat much, given it was 30 odd degrees most days, so could have brought much less.

I booked extra leg room seats on the flight. Not that I need it, but it saves some **** leaning back their seat into your space and is much less cramped. Bargain at about £120 each way.

I did bring a spare phone with the idea of using an Indiam sim card. In practice this didn't work as the mobile market is highly regulated, about the only thing that is here! They want passport details, plus contact and ID details for an Indian national before they'll give you one.

Happy to answer any questions if anyone ever has any - if you're reading this in 2033, I'm hoping to still be around, try me!


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A close shave for 30p even the Yarkshire blokes on here would be impressed. A great travel blog and excellent photos . Thanks for posting
 
Great report & photos. I’ve been to Kathmandu but always fancied a longer trip to take in a bit more of the wider culture of India. As someone mentioned earlier the people as so friendly & humble. Have a great trip…


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You realise Kathmandu isn’t in India !!


Great report , Mongoose .
So would you recommend this company based on the slightly dodgy riding antics of the guide ?

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Really enjoyed the write-up and photos Mongoose - thanks (y)
 
You realise Kathmandu isn’t in India !!


Great report , Mongoose .
So would you recommend this company based on the slightly dodgy riding antics of the guide ?

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Yes, their organisation has been fantastic, comms have been excellent and the standard of hotel more than reasonable. If I was going anywhere else, I'd look to them first. They're slightly dearer than the local companies in India and a fair bit cheaper than the established UK and US lot.

I've perhaps been a little over critical and understand why he made most of the decisions he did. He's had to keep 11 people happy on his own and you can't make everyone happy all of the time. Smashing bloke who overall, did a great job.

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Yes, their organisation has been fantastic, comms have been excellent and the standard of hotel more than reasonable. If I was going anywhere else, I'd look to them first. They're slightly dearer than the local companies in India and a fair bit cheaper than the established UK and US lot.

I've perhaps been a little over critical and understand why he made most of the decisions he did. He's had to keep 11 people happy on his own and you can't make everyone happy all of the time. Smashing bloke who overall, did a great job.

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Having tried a bit of tour guiding myself, I think anyone who can keep most of group of eleven happy most of the time deserves a lot of credit.

Enjoyable trip report with great photos.
 
Great report. Thank you very much for the time and effort you put into it. Much appreciated.
 


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