A Ride Through South Thailand

nik huzlan

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Ride Report : Danok - Betong on Route 4001

Sometime in August i had a few days in my hand, and having bought an F800GS, the call to go for a long ride was irresistable.

I managed to gather three good buddies, one with a Boxercup and another with a Gixxer K5. Both these gentlemen rode with me previously on a 1400km scooter trip last year.

As their bikes were not suitable for the trip, they each bought the Aprillia Pegaso 650 Trail.

The trip in brief: from Danok we took a right turn into some rural roads that crosses the restive Southern Provinces of Songkla and Yala, traversing a number of National Parks before main roads presented itself to Betong. There were times when we were in the jungles of Southern Thailand I felt some doubt about where we were heading, especially when tarmac ended and the gravel road led us ever deeper into the depths of tropical foliage. Luckily we always managed to find 'normal' roads and eventually reached Betong, having ridden 260 km in about 5 hours.

Having had a good time and assessed that the roads can be tackled with bigger DPs, I organised another trip, this time with a bunch of GS Riders.

For this trip, I planned a Route took us from Hatyai to Samnak Teao, San Kala Khiri Nat'l Park, then to Sathon, Prakop, before we joined Rte 4001 to Ban Lalae, Kabang and Than Tho, where we joined the main road that winds its way on the banks of Bang Lang Dam towards Betong.

All of us are based in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and we covered 550kms before beginning our ADV Lite trip in Thailand.

The whole of South Thailand, especially the Provinces of Yala, Songkhla, Narathiwat and Pattani averages two deaths a day since 2004 due to an ongoing violent spat between the Separatists and Government Forces, and as such this route is avoided by most bikers. Roadside bombs, beheadings, drive-by shootings are commonplace.

I guess that adds another sense of adventure to our trip.

Pictures below tells the story.

Here's the Route, on GPS
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The Riders ( less the photographer )
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Our first night was at Hatyai.
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Our rides awaiting the next day
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We started off with breakfast at a stall run by Kelantanese speaking ladies in the middle of Hatyai town.
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After about 40km on the main highway from Hatyai to Danok I led the group left into the kampongs and after another 10 minutes riding we ended up in a rubber estate, the first of the many gravel sections we will be riding through.
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We reached a kampong, again populated by Kelantanese speaking muslim Thais. It is clear that whilst they are not wealthy, we later found out that they are rich with hospitality.We stopped for a drink, and the villagers brought out some pulut and rendang for us. hen we wanted to pay, they refused, saying that they are happy we stopped by, and to treat the food as Hari Raya food. Really nice people.

The 'cafe'
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We left after half an hour, and I led the group through more estate roads.
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The first challenging stretch caught Fazlee out. He was on his GSA. It was on a fairly steep downhill incline, muddy and slippery, and Fazlee slid his front wheel into a deep rut, leaving his bike unmovable.

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It took 5 of us to pull his bike out.
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The journey continued at a leisurely pace
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After about 40 minutes we reached this beautiful tarmac that winds its way into the San Kala Khiri National Park. The road was clean and smooth, with good grip so the bikes can be ridden hard and fast. That the road was devoid of traffic added to our enjoyment.

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Then it was time for some photos....
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Part TWO to come........[
 
Ride Report : Danok - Betong on Route 4001 Part 2

We continued towards Sathon, then Prakop. The nice smooth roads eventually turned into rural tarmac, dotted with potholes and eroded surface. Photod do not do justice in showing the quality of road......

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We stopped at Ban Lalae ( Ban means Kampong in Thai ), another Muslim community deep in the South. Again the hospitality was overwhelming, and again they refused payment for the food and drinks. We decided to leave them some money anyway, saying that even if they do not want to take it, at least they can treat it as sedekah for their mosque fund.

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Bidding us farewell.
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The route ahead
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As we left, the rain came. This worried me as I secretly knew we would be in trouble if this rain continued into the gravel section ahead. The rest had no idea as they have never passed through the route and hence have no idea what awaits them.

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As we got closer to the dirt stretch, I was happy that the area was clear of rain, although I also knew that it will be a matter of time before the deluge catches up.

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we rode on, and the road was ominously quiet, with absolutely no traffic. We observed as we got deeper into the jungles, nature was reclaiming the road back, with creepers and foliage covering the road shoulders

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After another 30 minutes of riding on rural tarmac, the road ended and ahead lies a jungle track.

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We rode on, the rest having faith in me that the jungle track will eventually lead to a better quality road.
It would be a totally different story of it rained here as it did earlier on
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The track was bumpy and slippery, but it was a piece of cake for my long travel suspension of my GS800. The Adventures and GS12/11 did not have much of a problem.....

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Plenty of mud crossings to keep the riding interesting
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Then, a minor disaster struck. Minesh, on his GS1200 was tearing along at a fairly fast speed, amd his tyres slipped into a rocky rut. After a short struggle the bike went downnnnn
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As I was the last bike, with Minesh ahead of me, the rest was oblivious of this little mishap, but Fazlee turned back upon realising we were no more behind.

Fazlee found out hat making a u-turn on his GSA is no easy task, so after heaving and puffing.....
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He did it the traditional way
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After picking up Minesh's bike, which suffered minimal damage ( just light cosmetic scratches ) we rode on.

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The road got worse
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We reached a section that had a fallen tree trunk across the road. Thankfully someone who have passed by earlier did a partial job of hacking the obstacle. it was still a challenge geting through as it was slippery as hell.....
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With everyone safely through, we continued
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These steep pebble strewn incline would have been a major challenge had the rain came....
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We rode on for another 20 minutes on gravel, but with no incident. Eventually we ended up on a pristine stretch of tarmac that would do justice to an S1000R.

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This beautiful road led us to the highest point of Yala Province, atop of a hill that's about 2500ft high.
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We stopped for some photos.

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The road onwards was really good, but being the camerabike, I maintained the last bike position as the rest blasted off to enjoy the twisties.

On my last trip i remembered vaguely that there was an uncompleted bridge that began with a chasm just after a blind corner. I was a little worried it may catch out my friends who rode ahead.
Luckily the bridge was completed.

The Bridge
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The same bridge the month before. Notice the lack of any signs for early warning.....
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The heavens opened up as we reached the main road and with 3 of the bikers ahead, Minesh, Iqbal and me decided to wait out the rain by stopping at Than To for a drink.
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Heavy military presence was noticable. Note the two Humvees to the right of Iqbal
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From Than To the road was a real treat, with straights of not more than 200 meters between corners. And the corners were never ending all the way to Betong, 88 kms away. We however rode with restraint as it was wet. In dry conditions it would have been FUN

We stopped to take some pics of Bang Lang Reservoir.
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We rode on for the next 20 minutes in damp weather.
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we met our group that went ahead at Ban Sakai, about 35km from Betong.
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Onwards to Betong
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Welcome to Betong
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Our home for the night was Sweet Home Hotel.
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Parking was secure, very important for bikers....
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This is the way a GSA should look, dirty with no trace of shine.....
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Then it was dinner. This awesome but simple dish was the pinnacle of our dinner that night.
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More To Come
 
Great report. All that greenery reminds me of the 2 years I spent in Brunei, though I didn't have a bike to explore it unfortunately.
 
Good Stuff look forward to the next instalment :thumb2

Norrie :flag
 






The whole of South Thailand, especially the Provinces of Yala, Songkhla, Narathiwat and Pattani averages two deaths a day since 2004 due to an ongoing violent spat between the Separatists and Government Forces, and as such this route is avoided by most bikers. Roadside bombs, beheadings, drive-by shootings are commonplace.

I guess that adds another sense of adventure to our trip.



[


:eek::eek: That's a real adventure:D

Great pix Nik:thumb
 
Looks great ,I've been to Cambodia on an XR 400 a few times and must say I'm impressed you use the 1200 or 800 bikes. They must cost a fortune out there!!! Thanks for posting:thumb
 
thanks for sharing that , really enjoyed reading your report, have had a fair look around northern Thai but never been to the south.amazing ride thanks Nik
ian
 
Great report Nik, I love the roads north of Bentong, we are truely blessed with great roads and matching scenery here in Malaysia/Thailand/Cambodia...

we should meet up sometime, let me know how to contact you.

Dean in KL
 


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