Aaaaaarggg MORE SEIZED BOLTS.........!!!!!!!!!!

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Mike1150

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:blast:blast

I am in the process of changing the ring gear on my 1150gs, first time I have done anything this major to any bike.... but as yet the only thing holding me up is freeeeeeeken seized bolts

After spending 2 days fighting with the Swing arm Hex bolt (common problem according to BMW Oxford) finally beating it round with a coal chisel, I have now spent the past 2 days fighting with the 5 bolts holding the ring gear on (between the clutch housing and ring gear).

The problem is that the bolt heads are fairly thin, as such it is very tough to get purchase on the bolts, also, while struggling to get a good "grab" on the bolts I have started to round the edges of the bolts.

Has anyone done this job before and furthermore, any ideas how I can get the last 2 stubborn b@sterds off (I have soaked in WD and gt80 as well as heating the surrounds etc etc)??

I am so close to rebuilding the bike, so these bolts are doing my nut in :mad::mad::mad::mad:

Thanks all

Mike
 
Are you using six sided sockets? the normal twelve sided ones are more prone to slipping, in extremis you can sometimes grind the sockets to give a flat face (theres normally a chamfered bit) then theres the possbility of grinding the heads off the bleeders and removing the remains afterwards with molegrips or similar, theres likely to be threadlock of some kind here too so some heat might help.

Stewart
 
Neither WD40 nor GT85 are good penetrating oils - get some Plus Gas or some vinegar.

Heat the head to make it expand and crack the seal which has developed - if it's steel into steel, don't be frightened to get it close to red-heat if necessary. Don't do this if it's close to seals etc.!

Sockets which drive on the flats rather than the points are good at shifting stuff like this - Halfrauds do them; you may have to grind the front face flat (as already suggested).
 
As others have said - a good fitting socket and a breaker bar. Don't underestimate the value of good quality six wall sockets - you can buy them individually from good tool suppliers or your local friendly Snap-On / Britool man. The price of a single socket may make your eyes water, but you'll have it for next time :)
 
Heat and pen oil and patience

Sometimes you can leave a soldering iron on/in capheads/setscrews to warmum up
I have heard of a cracking way of warming um up as a last resort :thumb:eek::thumb
use a stickwelder put rod in holder rest/hold it on bolt, flick power on for a second or two ( try it out first on a similar bolt in vice to get a time temp) It will need a good earth and I accept no reponsablity for this tip ( I read it on here and I will use it as a last resort) although never needed to yet as hot air gun - blowlamp and solderin Iron has worked up to now
 
Heat and pen oil and patience

Sometimes you can leave a soldering iron on/in capheads/setscrews to warmum up
I have heard of a cracking way of warming um up as a last resort :thumb:eek::thumb
use a stickwelder put rod in holder rest/hold it on bolt, flick power on for a second or two ( try it out first on a similar bolt in vice to get a time temp) It will need a good earth and I accept no reponsablity for this tip ( I read it on here and I will use it as a last resort) although never needed to yet as hot air gun - blowlamp and solderin Iron has worked up to now

Thanks for the tips, Ill pass on the welder idea, I did this to my mate's Dad's car bumper when I was 10 - 22 years on, Im still quivering from the rath!!!! :):)
 
welder

That was my post you'll need a good welder diy aircooled probably won't do it and it will take more than a second. make sure the earth clamp is on tight as close as poss to the offending bolt. Good luck this does work.
Dave GS.
 
Hi
Undone mine yesterday with an air wrench. They all came out easy, so if you still haven't done it, get an air wrench or take it to one.

good luck I know how you feel
 
I presume if you have got as far as the ring gear then the battery is already removed?

If not, be sure to disconnect the battery first before performing any electric arc welding on the bike.

Any welding eddy currents will fry any electronics including ABS units, engine ECU's etc unless the circuit is broken (battery removed).
 
put a smear of grinding paste in the bolt head (the sort that we all have for lapping bonneville valves in), it helps the tool grip the head.
Hodge:rob
 
I presume if you have got as far as the ring gear then the battery is already removed?

If not, be sure to disconnect the battery first before performing any electric arc welding on the bike.

Any welding eddy currents will fry any electronics including ABS units, engine ECU's etc unless the circuit is broken (battery removed).

Thanks for the heads-up, however, I wont be heating the bolt with a welder, I just dont have one!!
 
Mike, I've just had the same hassle with my 1100R over the Christmas holidays. I suspect your bolts are not siezed, just very tight. I think I managed to make all the mistakes, and if I was doing the job again I wouldn't start without at least a 200 Nm impact wrench and a high quality impact socket. (I got a good 200 Nm electric wrench from Machine Mart for £75.)

Did I learn from my catologue of errors?

NEVER use a long breaker bar. I know that now.

Impact driver and impact socket. Possibly, I got three out with this.

Impact wrench. Perfect, but not after the bolt heads are rounded. I got the fourth one out with this.

The fifth wouldn't budge. I tried penetrating fluid, a little heat, a bolt out socket (for removing bolts with rounded heads - useless with bolts this tight) all to no avail. As a last resort I made three careful cuts in the bolt head down to the depth of the washer with an angle grinder. It took about a minute and I could then remove the bolt with my fingers. Drastic but it worked.

Good luck!

M :thumb2
 

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If the heads are rounded and you haven't got them out yet Mac tools do a socket that will grip any rounded off bolt. I've used them to undo allen head bolts on the outside. When removing Suzuki allen bolts I don't even get the allen keys out any more just go straight for the mac tool socket :O)
 
Mike, I've just had the same hassle with my 1100R over the Christmas holidays. I suspect your bolts are not siezed, just very tight. I think I managed to make all the mistakes, and if I was doing the job again I wouldn't start without at least a 200 Nm impact wrench and a high quality impact socket. (I got a good 200 Nm electric wrench from Machine Mart for £75.)

Did I learn from my catologue of errors?

NEVER use a long breaker bar. I know that now.

Impact driver and impact socket. Possibly, I got three out with this.

Impact wrench. Perfect, but not after the bolt heads are rounded. I got the fourth one out with this.

The fifth wouldn't budge. I tried penetrating fluid, a little heat, a bolt out socket (for removing bolts with rounded heads - useless with bolts this tight) all to no avail. As a last resort I made three careful cuts in the bolt head down to the depth of the washer with an angle grinder. It took about a minute and I could then remove the bolt with my fingers. Drastic but it worked.

Good luck!

M :thumb2

THOSE ARE THE SUCKERS:nenau:nenau

Pretty much same story, prized the first 3 off with an extention and a power bar, got the fourth off this pm without the extention (had to take the LH carb off though). Fifth and final bolt, I used the trusted old coal chisel, same thing though, once it moved 1mm, I was able to undo it with my fingures, anyway!! .... Very excited now as I can start the rebuild tomoz, after heading to Oxford BMW to get new bolts, replacing all 5 as all suffered a bit in the prolonged removal exercise:-(

Place bets on bike running sunday pm!!! :thumb:thumb

Doubt it something is bound to hold things up AGAIN!!!
 
AGHHHHHHH

Well done, looking forward to the next installament running we all hope! good luck.
dave gs.
 
Good luck with the rebuild Mike. It's essential to replace all the bolts as they are stretch bolts and can only be used once. I'm sure you're aware but you will also need to get 6 new bolts and washers for the clutch.

M :thumb2
 
Good luck with the rebuild Mike. It's essential to replace all the bolts as they are stretch bolts and can only be used once. I'm sure you're aware but you will also need to get 6 new bolts and washers for the clutch.

M :thumb2

Hi yup all changed!!!

I have now got a runner, all thats left is back wheel and caliper, tidy all the cables, tubes and other rogue bits........ recon I will have a test run tomoz for sure!!

BTW, I have started it a few times to test the starter, started grand bar one time (the second of about 5 starts) when I am sure I heard grind/slap, didnt do it again though so hoping it just "settling" issue....

Man I have really enjoyed this job... I was quoted £500 to do the job, done it my self for about £350 (inluding few tools and lubes) and learnt loads in return!!!

Would really recommend to others to have go fixing yourself before taking the "shop"!!
 


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