ABS II failure, new story and problem identified. But but but...

B-Maniak

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To make it short, ABS upper light flashes intermittently, but all the time. Lower light does not light up. The bulb has been tested and works.

Have been threw ibmwr, bmwmoa, largiader, Chris Harris, here, reset stuff, hexcode's forum, tail's light and more. I couldn't find a line about lower light not turning on. GS 911 is saying " Warning lamp fault" The fault is currently present.

Today I tried turning off the ignition while driving and restarting by dropping the clutch. No change.

At the end of the road I had to go back with a u-turn. And then, suddenly, the top light went off. I went to test the ABS on a gravel road, it worked in front and behind.

I got home, turned engine off and started it, and again the upper light flashes and the lower stays off.

I went for another short ride, made a u- turn and again upper light turned off.


So it's clearly a problem with the harness being too tightened somewhere.


The question is: Is the over tightened place on the harness known? What is the colour of the cable that is under pressure?



Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
 
The only thing that I could suggest is you remove the large connected from the ABS ECU and have a look to see if any of the contacts have been pushed back in the connector, ie become unlocked.

If you feel that it could be a wiring issue, The ECU connector has a largest bunch. At the same time, you can look at the harness to see if any wires have been chafed. Also check that the ABS module and harness are properly secured.

Good luck
Ian
 
The harness between the ignition switch and headstock is a common issue on 1150's and the cure is replacement. The cause is the cable tie at the headstock restricting movement, and issues become apparent while turning the bars from side to side. I've no idea if this is causing your problems, but it is worth a look. Another common problem is the twin filament brake light bulb; when one filament breaks, it'll still work but causes issues.
 
The General warning light not coming on is a bit of a mystery.

The ABS monitors the current draw in the tail light and when there is a filament break, the ABS will control the remaining filament as a dual tail and brake light, whilst at the same time putting the General warning light on to tell you you have a fault.

Try removing the tail light bulb, and see if you can get the General warning light to come on.

Have you done anything recently to the bike like fit LED’s to your instrument cluster. Some bulbs should not be LED’s because the current draw is different, and a system designed to monitor current will put up faults. This includes tail light LED’s.
 
The harness between the ignition switch and headstock is a common issue on 1150's and the cure is replacement. The cause is the cable tie at the headstock restricting movement, and issues become apparent while turning the bars from side to side.

You're right, I've had that on a 2003 1150R once. Will check it first.

Another common problem is the twin filament brake light bulb; when one filament breaks, it'll still work but causes issues.

As I wrote in the first post, I have already examined, tested and exchanged the tail bulb. No change.
 
Have you done anything recently to the bike like fit LED’s to your instrument cluster. Some bulbs should not be LED’s because the current draw is different, and a system designed to monitor current will put up faults. This includes tail light LED’s.

No LED's yet on the bike, but thanks to think about it.
 
Your first post said the bulb was 'tested and works', not exchanged. The bulb will still appear to work with one filament, but it will cause issues. However, if it's been replaced then look elsewhere :thumb
 
Your first post said the bulb was 'tested and works', not exchanged. The bulb will still appear to work with one filament, but it will cause issues. However, if it's been replaced then look elsewhere :thumb

The bulb holder can also be a problem. Clean the terminal contacts and the bulb contacts….. I’m also presuming both the brake servos are working as the OP hasn’t mentioned them.
 
The bulb holder can also be a problem. Clean the terminal contacts and the bulb contacts…..

Thanks Steptoe, will check that right now.

I’m also presuming both the brake servos are working as the OP hasn’t mentioned them.

ABS II have servos? I know I didn't mention it but this is a 2000 1150GS.
 
The harness between the ignition switch and headstock is a common issue on 1150's and the cure is replacement.

Looks like it was changed already, the harness sleeve is in much better condition than the others.

BTW I may have found the beginning of the answer.




Cleaned everything, will let it dry until tomorrow and we'll see.
 
Looks like it was changed already, the harness sleeve is in much better condition than the others.

BTW I may have found the beginning of the answer.





Cleaned everything, will let it dry until tomorrow and we'll see.

Which connector is that..?
 
Comes from the ignition key and seats under the tank with others.




The male connector had what looks like a curiously oxidised spade.




The female connector wasn't that easy to clean well, because "lips are narrower than mouth". After several attempts, including cutting some of the fringe off an old brush and chemical spray, I finally took a Dremel polishing tool,




and shaped it with a file, while turning, to the right size.


Mind you, here again size matters. At first it was too big and it broke in, well at the bottom of course.



And remember, you don't necessarily want to have perfectly shinning surfaces. Removing too much material would be counterproductive.
 
You’ll not get away from corrosion on these types of connectors because they are open to the elements and are not waterproof. Spraying with a good contact cleaner/lubricant will help.

Making and breaking the connector a few times is usually good enough to clear away sufficient corrosion between the male and female contacts to provide a good enough connection.

Attacking them with any form of abrasive is likely to make things worse……….:nenau
 
Title is talking about ABS II which I presume is without servos :beerjug:


BTW It's amazing that even when it's that dirty like the connector was, it still works. Because after cleaning the connector well, no change at all.


I was happy yesterday to find another possible cause, but this wasn't the case.




And I discovered that what is probably clutch fluid was shining under the connection of the hose and the slave cylinder. Another little job to plan.
 
Title is talking about ABS II which I presume is without servos :beerjug:

True, but 95% of the people who post ABS brake faults on here generally don’t have clue what braking system they have fitted to their bikes, which is why, irrespective of what the fault is, to state Model and year of the bike.

The ABS warning light is controlled via the blue relay in the fuse box. Power via the ignition switch (unfused) but controlled via a switched earth from the ABS.

The Warning light gets a direct power feed via fuse 1. With a switched earth from the ABS module to power it.

I’m not certain, but think the wiring from the ABS module passes through a connector block at the head stock.

The wires are:-
green/black (terminal 5) and white/black (terminal 11) for the warning light.
green/yellow (terminal 10) and brown ( terminal 1) for the ABS light.

It’s worth pointing out, that water ingress in the harness that runs to the instrument cluster is a known problem, and can lead to all sorts of faults as there are crimped connectors buried in the loom that do corrode.
 
There’s a relay in the abs modulator which fail, it’s under the plastic cover where the electrical connections are.
 


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