ABS II no servo looking for another trick

[B-Maniak]

Didn't even fixed the last trouble (ABS lower light not working (bulb is tested and good)) a new one appeared.

When I turn the ignition key, ABS is whining and only neutral and upper ABS light up. Not the oil one? ? ?

Any idea before surgery? Mine of course.

Odyssey PC 680 is new, saying 13,32V.

 

[Cyrano]

IMHO there is nothing that may whine in an ABSII unit. What you're hearing is probably the fuel pump priming. If the pitch has changed recently fuel filter might be clogged, or some internal fuel pipe has blown off, or the fuel pump is drawing its terminal blow.

 

[B-Maniak]

Thank you for your answer but there is no tank on the bike.

 

[Steptoe]

This is one of those “more questions than answers” thread. Has this all happened since you removed the tank ? What do you mean by the “upper” and “lower”
Abs lights ? Only servo abs as an upper and lower. … a faulty abs relay can cause a non servo abs pump to whine. The relay that’s located in the abs modulator, not in the relay/fuse box… have you tried putting the oil pressure switch wire connection to earth ? Turn ignition on and earth the wire connector, the oil light should come on. If it does then the oil pressure switch unit needs replacing. Do the instrument panel indicator lights work ?

 

[Steptoe]

Thank you for your answer but there is no tank on the bike.

You need to tell us exactly what you’ve done or are doing if you want help, not tell us an important detail once someone’s suggested a cause of the possible problem.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

I love these ‘ask Steptoe’ threads ….

 

[Steptoe]

I love these ‘ask Steptoe’ threads ….

I also get similar phone calls... big on the problem- complete lack of any relative details

 

[B-Maniak]

Thanks for steping in Steptoe.

First of all I have to apologize that English is not my mother tongue.

And you're right Steptoe, as TINA said once, There Is No Alternative to precision when talking about mechanics.

This 2000 model single spark and ABS II no servo do have and upper and a lower ABS light.



So the bike is a 2000 model with less than 40M on the clock. I changed slave clutch cylinder and put Lennie's sprockets. I also took off the cat, taking off lambda sensor too, thinking about opening it and taking the honeycomb stuff out. Finally I decided that back pressure is more precious for low and mid-range torque and put everything back on.

In fact, turning the key only lights neutral and upper ABS light. No oil pressure neither battery charge one.

Grounding the oil pressure do lights the bulb on ignition and instrument panel indicator lights doesn't work. Only the FID lights on.


Before, when bike was running with only the upper ABS bulb lightened all the time, I remember that turning handlebar completely left, turned off the upper ABS bulb.


Was curious about compression with Lennie's sprockets, so I first tested on LH cylinder. Everything was OK, a little 0,5Kg more. On RH cylinder, when I put ignition back on to press the starter button with WOT, it started to whine just at this moment.

 

[Steptoe]

It could be the large unprotected multi crimped earth in the instrument wiring loom which has corroded. It turns to green mush (verdigris) causing lots of instrument light issues, the outer sheathing of the loom is open, allowing water to enter and sit in the bend of the loom, exactly where the large crimped earth is located. You need to slice through the instrument wiring loom outer sheath and clean up/make good the exposed earth, and protect it from further corrosion.

 

[B-Maniak]

Tried that today, took off instruments and discovered no moisture, no verdigris








Also earthed the brown wires from up behind the instruments directly to the battery. No changes

Should test the wires one by one.


Also checked the ABS relay, it's working.


Also earthed directly from the connector box to check any issue between box and earth.





I also find it curious that with so few kilometres someone has already been there.









At the end, if not electric, could it be a bit of dust that would jam a valve in the ABS?

 

[B-Maniak]

After checking wires in the instrument wiring loop one by one with an ohmmeter, squeezed them, ABS relay, brake switches, if brake lever had enough place to completely release, ABS sensors, tested all the instrument bulbs, bled the ABS control unit I finally found a bad ground connection here:



Now ABS if not winning anymore and all the lights are back on except for the lower ABS light. I've opened its outer sheath, and everything looks OK inside. No verdigris or whatsoever strange:



Any input to fix that lower ABS light?

It's very strange because I do have power on the bulb holder but it's not flashing




And if I ground it directly to the battery



Bulb lights up slowly (sharing the current with the control lamp?) but not flashing

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Haven’t got much of clue where you’re going with your fault finding.

Both the upper ABS light and the lower LAMP warning lights are controlled from the ABS computer.

The ABS light uses the relay which is switched via a negative pulse from the ABS control unit pin 5 red / black wire.

The Lamp light has power supplied directly from Fuse 1 on one side, and to light it needs the negative pulse direct from the ABS control unit pin 18 white / black wire.

It could be that as you have had earth problems, then the ABS module has generated faults.

Have you tried clearing the faults.

If you clear the faults, and it’s still not working, then it could be the control unit is faulty.

Read This http://largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

 

[DrFarkoff]

Peut-être la masse électrique entre le cadre et les instruments est corrodés

Tous les fils brun se rejoignent a un un ou deux points dans ce câblage et si ils sont corrodés?

De cette façon, la masse électrique ne fonctionne pas correctement et il te faudera de séparer et de nettoyer les fils et de les rejoindre

Avec un circuit (ou en plus) masse electrique cassé, le courant électrique d'un autre circuit utilise l'ampoule ABS comme un son masse électrique )


It is sensible to check between "the frame front" and "the instruments" to open up the wiring loom and look

You will find communal earth/ground points, These are likely to be corroded

The bulb is probably being used for a partial ground by something else because its own earth is broken

 

[Steptoe]

It is sensible to check between "the frame front" and "the instruments" to open up the wiring loom and look

You will find communal earth/ground points, These are likely to be corroded

Zoot alors, mon dieu, avec frites si vous plait.

As suggested previously in post 9.

Replied to in post 10 and 11 and seemingly all OK.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Replied to in post 10 and 11 and seemingly all OK.

Oui Oui Monsieur Steppers but He says that he belled them out with an ohmmeter

Not that he stripped that bit of loom and visually checked the common earth crimp points Steppers

We both know that if a lamp is glowing on the the wee panel that usually means something else is using it for a track to earth
Unless of course it's the alternator warning lamp then it's possible the alternator is f*****

 

[Steptoe]

Oui Oui Monsieur Steppers but He says that he belled them out with an ohmmeter

Not that he stripped that bit of loom and visually checked the common earth crimp points Steppers

We both know that if a lamp is glowing on the the wee panel that usually means something else is using it for a track to earth
Unless of course it's the alternator warning lamp then it's possible the alternator is f*****

Guilty.. I must admit to speed reading the posts, seeing the key words checked and all OK. The devil is in the detail

As you say, simply checking the continuity of the wires that won't be corroded and turned to mush tells you nothing...

 

[B-Maniak]

That's why I tried this today

Opened the connector to check if we had some juice on the good wires. The Green/Y, for the ABS upper bulb, looks OK as we can see.

And the W/Black, for the Lamp lower bulb, is not giving anything.

As Ian said, it might then be that the control unit is faulty


And yes, before I've done the reset as Largiader said.

 

[B-Maniak]

GS 911 is helping a lot:



I've cleared them and the warning lamp is still faulty.

 

[B-Maniak]

As you say, simply checking the continuity of the wires that won't be corroded and turned to mush tells you nothing...

Which means???

 

[DrFarkoff]

It is NOT the supply wires that are the problem it is the Communal "masse Electrique" many brown wires (ground) meet and are crimped together

There are two or three of these communal earth connections in the instrument loom

When one wire breaks off due to corrosion there is no longer a ground for the bulb and it shares a ground through another bulb circuit

Hence why your bulb is Glowing ! Bad corrosion = High resistance

this is the Usual problem

Using an Ohm meter does NOT work as it uses minute amounts of energy so can pass a bad connection You need an incandescent bulb of 21W that will force a problem to show