NLC
Registered user
After adding some 35w HID dipped and main (because the stock lights on the GS are utter crap) I decided that I wanted to add some additional lights not only for more vision but I think drivers notice you more. In London I particularly notice bikes with three lights quicker than single lights. My IAM observer had told me that the human brain recognises patterns like triangles very quickly. In Japan they did a study that a face pattern using an inverted triangle was 2.4 times more likely to be seen that a single headlight. More info on that study here:
http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/pdf/esv/esv21/09-0406.pdf
After much research I purchased a FF50 FOG kit to match my 35w HID from Les Wassall of this parish. I read many problems with the ones on EBAY and opted for Les and he was great in working out this setup as it had not been used before by him (using a Fuzeblock) and thought I would post this for the benefit of others. Les was also patient in working out a problem that ultimately was the CANBUS but that is another story. I have 6k in the headlights and on Les's recommendation opted for 5k for cleaner definition for the AUX lights. Many have gone for the DE lights but I opted for the FF50 because I like the look of them and they are cheaper than the DEs. Some people prefer the FF50 over the DEs for performance and they match the GS headlamp design. The DE have a better body and with the protective metal covers are more robust but I am not a Green Laner just yet. I plan to have these on all the time so I opted for the FOG rather than the driving lights on Les's advice. I also got the ballast bracket from Les and feel more comfortable having items bolted and it was clean. For the light bar I went with a Migsel. Very robust bar and cleverly designed with lots of holes to tie things into.
After reading many posts I decided to opt for Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans. This clever little box gives you a choice of six circuits and you can decide which of the six circuits is always on or switched. Not much room under the seat and this unit having a relay already built in was clever in my opinion. The original intent was to wire the lights through the Fuzeblock and while that would work on advise from Curt from Fuzeblock he suggested that it might be too much power for the switch. So I used the relay from the FF50 kit and stuck the relay under the fuel tank with some 3M Double Lock (very expensive but very good). Wiring diagram attached. Using the Fuzeblock enables me to wire everything into it directly with the exception of the Starcom which needs to go direct to the battery for noise reasons. So if something goes wrong you can unhook everything rather than the dealer saying you modified the bike (especially since mine is under warranty). The Fuzeblock needs to pick up a 12v switched live from the bike. Many use the parking light and some advise to use the diagnostic switch (which my dealer said is a no no). I opted to splice into my sat nav lead from the socket under the beak for the reason that I can disconnect it if need be and I am not splicing into any stock wiring.
Took my time and soldered everything where I could and use waterproof tape for the joints and shrinking wrap. After many years of using a cheap crimper I picked up a decent one from Vehicle Wiring Products (excellent website and much cheaper than Halfords and Maplin).
http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/pdf/esv/esv21/09-0406.pdf
After much research I purchased a FF50 FOG kit to match my 35w HID from Les Wassall of this parish. I read many problems with the ones on EBAY and opted for Les and he was great in working out this setup as it had not been used before by him (using a Fuzeblock) and thought I would post this for the benefit of others. Les was also patient in working out a problem that ultimately was the CANBUS but that is another story. I have 6k in the headlights and on Les's recommendation opted for 5k for cleaner definition for the AUX lights. Many have gone for the DE lights but I opted for the FF50 because I like the look of them and they are cheaper than the DEs. Some people prefer the FF50 over the DEs for performance and they match the GS headlamp design. The DE have a better body and with the protective metal covers are more robust but I am not a Green Laner just yet. I plan to have these on all the time so I opted for the FOG rather than the driving lights on Les's advice. I also got the ballast bracket from Les and feel more comfortable having items bolted and it was clean. For the light bar I went with a Migsel. Very robust bar and cleverly designed with lots of holes to tie things into.
After reading many posts I decided to opt for Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans. This clever little box gives you a choice of six circuits and you can decide which of the six circuits is always on or switched. Not much room under the seat and this unit having a relay already built in was clever in my opinion. The original intent was to wire the lights through the Fuzeblock and while that would work on advise from Curt from Fuzeblock he suggested that it might be too much power for the switch. So I used the relay from the FF50 kit and stuck the relay under the fuel tank with some 3M Double Lock (very expensive but very good). Wiring diagram attached. Using the Fuzeblock enables me to wire everything into it directly with the exception of the Starcom which needs to go direct to the battery for noise reasons. So if something goes wrong you can unhook everything rather than the dealer saying you modified the bike (especially since mine is under warranty). The Fuzeblock needs to pick up a 12v switched live from the bike. Many use the parking light and some advise to use the diagnostic switch (which my dealer said is a no no). I opted to splice into my sat nav lead from the socket under the beak for the reason that I can disconnect it if need be and I am not splicing into any stock wiring.
Took my time and soldered everything where I could and use waterproof tape for the joints and shrinking wrap. After many years of using a cheap crimper I picked up a decent one from Vehicle Wiring Products (excellent website and much cheaper than Halfords and Maplin).
