Fanum
Toubab
Apologies to that nice Mr Wapping for paraphrasing his find thread on the F.O.A.W, but this may be of interest to all 11xx owners, anyone who has a bike or car or anything else that uses either standard blade fuses or the mini blade type fuses.
For the purposes of this thread, I'm using my own 1150GSA.
THE PROBLEM:
Finding and tapping into a SWITCHED 12v live supply requires you to know which wire to tap into, then using either a positap or a some form of breaking/connecting into that wire.
THE SOLUTION:
Add-A-Circuit connectors.
Here are both types, the more common standard blade type and below, the mini blade type.
OK, so what does it do?
Well to put it simply, it's effectively a piggy-back fuse circuit so you can add an extra feed from any fuse box.
IF you use it on a circuit which is switched by the ignition (as on the 1100 and 1150) it will give you a SWITCHED live supply.
(Some vehicles have fuses on circuits that remain live independently of the ignition, EG some car horns can be sounded even with the ignition) OFF)
This is how you use it, on an 1150
1) Open up your fuse box, under the seat.
2) refer to your Whatton's stick on cheat sheet
If you haven't got it, you can find it HERE....it's just a picture of the components in your fuse box so you can see what each relay and fuse is for.
3) identify a non-critical fuse.
This isn't entirely necessary, but common sense says that in the unlikely event of anything going wrong, it's better that it goes wrong on a fuse circuit that won't impact on your ability to ride home......so I use the horn fuse, number 4, 7.5a
4) pull that fuse, using the cunningly badly designed fuse puller supplied by BMW, or your leatherman
5) Stick that fuse in the LOWER of the two fuse slots in the Add-A-Circuit connector.
The UPPER of the two fuse slots is the fuse for the NEW circuit, so add a second fuse there.
The maximum continuous rating of these blocks is 10a, so for this exercise, I've stuck a 10a fuse in the upper of the two slots:
6) Replace the fuse you took out in the fuse box with the 'Add-A-Circuit' block
You'll see that the original fuse and the new one lie at 90 degrees to the original position...they will fit, but you may need to gently push the fuse rail down into the box a little so the lid goes back on properly.
7) Route your new circuit flying lead out of the fuse box:
9) that's essentially it......you now have a SWITCHED 10 amp circuit ready to use.......extend the flying lead to any length you need to go to whatever you're powering, then use any earth point on the frame or engine to complete the circuit, and with no mucking about, you have a SWITCHED, fuse protected circuit ready to use, whilst retaining the use of the original fuse
HINTS:
10 Amps is plenty for most things you want to wire to the bike, but if you want to use this to power an auxilliary light system that ISN'T a low draw LED system, it would be ideal to use the switched supply to trigger a relay that feeds its main supply directly from the battery, and uses another, separate in line fuse between the relay and the AUX lights.
The same applies to heated clothing which can get rather close or exceed the 10 amp draw.
For subscribed Tossers, these are £5.00 delivered to any UK mainland address, INCLUDING a fuse (let me know what amperage fuse you need, up to 10A)
For the purposes of this thread, I'm using my own 1150GSA.
THE PROBLEM:
Finding and tapping into a SWITCHED 12v live supply requires you to know which wire to tap into, then using either a positap or a some form of breaking/connecting into that wire.
THE SOLUTION:
Add-A-Circuit connectors.
Here are both types, the more common standard blade type and below, the mini blade type.
OK, so what does it do?
Well to put it simply, it's effectively a piggy-back fuse circuit so you can add an extra feed from any fuse box.
IF you use it on a circuit which is switched by the ignition (as on the 1100 and 1150) it will give you a SWITCHED live supply.
(Some vehicles have fuses on circuits that remain live independently of the ignition, EG some car horns can be sounded even with the ignition) OFF)
This is how you use it, on an 1150
1) Open up your fuse box, under the seat.
2) refer to your Whatton's stick on cheat sheet
If you haven't got it, you can find it HERE....it's just a picture of the components in your fuse box so you can see what each relay and fuse is for.
3) identify a non-critical fuse.
This isn't entirely necessary, but common sense says that in the unlikely event of anything going wrong, it's better that it goes wrong on a fuse circuit that won't impact on your ability to ride home......so I use the horn fuse, number 4, 7.5a
4) pull that fuse, using the cunningly badly designed fuse puller supplied by BMW, or your leatherman
5) Stick that fuse in the LOWER of the two fuse slots in the Add-A-Circuit connector.
The UPPER of the two fuse slots is the fuse for the NEW circuit, so add a second fuse there.
The maximum continuous rating of these blocks is 10a, so for this exercise, I've stuck a 10a fuse in the upper of the two slots:
6) Replace the fuse you took out in the fuse box with the 'Add-A-Circuit' block
You'll see that the original fuse and the new one lie at 90 degrees to the original position...they will fit, but you may need to gently push the fuse rail down into the box a little so the lid goes back on properly.
7) Route your new circuit flying lead out of the fuse box:
9) that's essentially it......you now have a SWITCHED 10 amp circuit ready to use.......extend the flying lead to any length you need to go to whatever you're powering, then use any earth point on the frame or engine to complete the circuit, and with no mucking about, you have a SWITCHED, fuse protected circuit ready to use, whilst retaining the use of the original fuse
HINTS:
10 Amps is plenty for most things you want to wire to the bike, but if you want to use this to power an auxilliary light system that ISN'T a low draw LED system, it would be ideal to use the switched supply to trigger a relay that feeds its main supply directly from the battery, and uses another, separate in line fuse between the relay and the AUX lights.
The same applies to heated clothing which can get rather close or exceed the 10 amp draw.
For subscribed Tossers, these are £5.00 delivered to any UK mainland address, INCLUDING a fuse (let me know what amperage fuse you need, up to 10A)
