Advice from Steptoe & the Team Please

Jazbee

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Recently bought a low miler(19,000)1998 R1100RT, and in general mint condtition.
Problems: The gearchanges are very clunky, 2 thru 4th gear whine, 5th smooth and quiet. Now I know the 1100's are known to have a 'characterful' gearbox which is fine by me but this is very unlike my 07 12GS which is very slick in this department. Just feels like its a 119,000 miler that's been run dry for the past 100,000 miles? Any ideas? Also, flat spot at about 1500 rpm, just as your about to turn a hairpin corner in 2nd? Usually blip the throttle on change downs here and have had it cut out flat-out...which give's the missus the shits!

Thanks in advance for any input & suggestions:thumb
 
there is of course a very very slight chance it could actually be a 119000 which has been run dry:eek:.who knows.whats the history?who did you buy it off?
 
there is of course a very very slight chance it could actually be a 119000 which has been run dry:eek:.who knows.whats the history?who did you buy it off?

I know the history, but thanks for the suggestion.
 
cheapest first suggestion, change the gearbox oil.

have a close look at what comes out, any metal particles, if none, then put in new oil and hopefully:rolleyes: it will improve. it might be the original oil, who knows?
 
Sounds like you should start by fully servicing the bike so you know most f the variables (air filter, plugs etc) are in good shape.
 
They are clunky gearboxes.

Check the gearlinkages.
It may look mint but most RT's are in a right state underneth the shiny polished fairing :augie

Shouldn't have a flat spot. Setting up the throttle bodies and TPS correctly should get rid of that.
 
Some of them do whine in the intermediate gears; one of mine has done so for years without ill effect. There was a recent post on one of the other oilhead sites on whining gearboxes in R1100xx bikes; some do, some don't. Re the gearchange I find that pre-loading the gear lever helps and that the change is much better the higher you rev the engine. If you do lazy changes the 'box is more likely to clunk; as has been said, cleaning and lubricating the linkage can produce a big improvement.
 
They are clunky gearboxes.

Check the gearlinkages.
It may look mint but most RT's are in a right state underneth the shiny polished fairing :augie

Shouldn't have a flat spot. Setting up the throttle bodies and TPS correctly should get rid of that.

Thanks Steptoe, and all the guys who responed:thumb
Its mint underneath as well, really clean. Never balanced TB's before but will give it a go, twin max? or what would you recommend?
 
cheapest first suggestion, change the gearbox oil.

have a close look at what comes out, any metal particles, if none, then put in new oil and hopefully:rolleyes: it will improve. it might be the original oil, who knows?

Did it today, my first thoughts as well E, nice clean oil:eek:
 
jazbee hope you enjoy your rt mate,when its all sorted:thumb

I am enjoying it already mate, it is a superb bike and probably the pinical of the boxer engine development. As an engineer by background, its a joy under the plastic to see the quality of components on this machine, Steptoe would concur I'm sure:thumb Cruising at 80 with your visor up is a real joy. I love my GS but this is the one my Missus will get on!!
 
Some of them do whine in the intermediate gears; one of mine has done so for years without ill effect. There was a recent post on one of the other oilhead sites on whining gearboxes in R1100xx bikes; some do, some don't. Re the gearchange I find that pre-loading the gear lever helps and that the change is much better the higher you rev the engine. If you do lazy changes the 'box is more likely to clunk; as has been said, cleaning and lubricating the linkage can produce a big improvement.

:thumb2
 
They are clunky gearboxes.

Check the gearlinkages.
It may look mint but most RT's are in a right state underneth the shiny polished fairing :augie

Shouldn't have a flat spot. Setting up the throttle bodies and TPS correctly should get rid of that.
Throttle position sensor? How does one do that? Thought that should only be removed if been replaced? Other alternative to Twinmax is Carbtune I think it is easier for comparing column levels

Chris.
 
Throttle position sensor? How does one do that? Thought that should only be removed if been replaced? Other alternative to Twinmax is Carbtune I think it is easier for comparing column levels

Chris.

The TPS is mounted with slotted holes, search about on ADVrider or IBMWR oilhead tech and find out how to connect your multimeter and obtain the correct voltage at idle.
My 97GS has a lovely whiney clunky box, but the oil always comes out looking the same as it did when it went in :thumb2

Stewart
 


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