Advice on buying used GS1200

[fredN4]

Hi
I am toying with the idea of buying a 2005 GS1200, 48.5k kms (30k miles).
The bike has a service record but I have not yet seen the documents. Main questions are what to look out for in a bike of this age and is there an expensive service due? I already own a VFR Vtec 800 and a KTM 950A. One of them may have to go.
Many thanks
PS couldnt find a quick link to help me.

 

[Wapping]

Much the same as viewing any bike of that age.... Except you needn't look at the state of the chain.

You own two bikes, what would you look for in those? Transfer to the GS. Job done.

Service interval is 6,000 miles and / or annual.

The one you are looking at may well be due one, on mileage alone. The service history will tell you.


PS Chances are the suspension is past it's best. Mine was at thirty thousand, for sure.

 

[Bendy toy]

@Patzx12 created a very interesting thread on issues with the final drives and bearing failures. Reading that (and elsewhere) I leaned that before 2006 (MK1 1200) a 30mm needle roller was used on the pinion nose bearing. When these fail the whole final drive gets wrecked. There are no symptoms so the more careful/cautious owner will have the whole drive rebuilt if the main wheel bearing fails rather than just have the bearing replaced. The images posted by Pat showed pitting on his nose bearing races. How that could be on a properly maintained bike is anyone's guess though the bearing running dry is possible.

For the MK2 and Mk3 a 32mm bearing is used which for some reason is less prone to failure.

For that reason I went for a Mk2 with the more reliable FD.

There is also the issue of corrosion. My Mk2 (which has not been abused) really needs the seat subframe and steering headstock brace powder coating. An older bike will be even more in need of refinishing.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

@Patzx12 created a very interesting thread on issues with the final drives and bearing failures. Reading that (and elsewhere) I leaned that before 2006 (MK1 1200) a 30mm needle roller was used on the pinion nose bearing. When these fail the whole final drive gets wrecked. There are no symptoms so the more careful/cautious owner will have the whole drive rebuilt if the main wheel bearing fails rather than just have the bearing replaced. The images posted by Pat showed pitting on his nose bearing races. How that could be on a properly maintained bike is anyone's guess though the bearing running dry is possible.

For the MK2 and Mk3 a 32mm bearing is used which for some reason is less prone to failure.

For that reason I went for a Mk2 with the more reliable FD.

There is also the issue of corrosion. My Mk2 (which has not been abused) really needs the seat subframe and steering headstock brace powder coating. An older bike will be even more in need of refinishing.

Nothing like scaring the living shit out of the bloke On the whole the early GS's are excellent machines as any fauts will have been sorted long ago. Taken a few of these early ones on my Alaska jaunts and they without exception perform faultlessly. The FD can be an issue but as long as there is no movement in the back wheel you will be good to go.

Corrosion is an issue on the front engine case but if it's lived in the sunnier climes of France all it's life, it may not be an issue.

You may well be due a service but don't worry as they are simple and cheap enough compared to other bikes. If you are half competent with a spanner you could easily do it yourself.

As Wapping said, just view it as you would anything else and if you like it, but it and enjoy it

 

[(RIP) Johno23]

The 24k mile service is the big one. If that's been done correctly then that will save you a few quid.It will be due another service now but as said above you could probably do it yourself.Good luck

 

[(RIP) Miff]

My 38,000 mile 2005 GS has been trouble free. IIRC the previous owner had to strip and lube the "gear indicator thingy", but apart from that, all fine.

 

[Pukmeister]

The ABS can be expensive if it fails. Check that the brake fluid has been flushed/replaced at the relevant services every two years.

The bikes are generally tough unless neglected, so check the condition of the bikes finish carefully, corrosion is easy to spot especially on the front engine cover.

Final drives can fail on early and late bikes, some folk on here rebuild them so no panic necessary.

A few bikes had catastrophic valve failure usually on the RH cylinder. Regular valve clearance checks help, as does a remap of the fuel injection/ignition to add more fuel.

Lots to choose from, knock yourself out.

 

[Bobbin-Man]

My '06 has 53K on it and runs really sweet, I bought it at 48K.
I'd be tempted to go for '06 onwards due to the revisions they made, eg. centre stand etc.
Frame corrosion is minimal, GSA's seem to suffer worse, maybe the black paint is less durable than the silver, but take it as read that the front cover WILL need some work! Not a difficult fix though. No ABS/servo issues.
I think mine is classed as the Mk2, if budget will stretch IMHO it's what to look for.

 

[fredN4]

many thanks guys. keep it coming. I am pretty handy with the spanners and liked the look of a simple bike to maintain. Having just had to spend a few bob on my KTM (exhaust valves) I know what I might be letting myself in for when buying an older bike.

 

[stevemersey]

I bought my first R1200GS at Easter this year and then started reading all the final drive posts on here. If it had been the other way round I would not have bought one, and that would have been a mistake. Six thousand trouble free, fun packed miles so far and I have as much confidence in this bike as any I have owned. Yes I have more corrosion than I would like, otherwise no complaints. I check the final drive for play when I wash the bike and then go have some fun.

 

[Rasher]

The 2008 MU (Model Upgrade) got a re-designed FD and a bit more power / improved steering.

Can't see many early bikes not having had the FD replaced

I have now gone back to Jap bikes but think if you really want a GS then go and get one - a good independent mechanic is probably the biggest thing if not servicing yourself as main BMW dealer prices are quite high, as your looking at a 2005 bike I assume your not wanting to spend a huge amount on the bike - and therefore probably do not fancy huge service bills either.

 

[KSMITH]

i have got a 2005, and its Africa tough-
it has 81,000km (50,000miles), i have put on 15,000km of those, been through zimbabwe, swaziland in hot, cold dirt and tar roads, driven for hours on end at 180-200km/h on fast highways, slowly on dirt tracks in 35 degrees plus.comfortable, can pack it like a camel, handles well, gives good consumption ( approx 16km/l average) , easy to work on and repair ( i do my own work except tyres) and is forgiving. rides ok on shitty fuel ( zim fuel pumps give anything - trucks cars diesel or petrol fill up at the same pump!)

i would like an adventure tripple black , but that is only a nice to have and not a have to have.

strong bikes- wear very well (cosmetics ect ), final drive had some bad bad black smelly oil in itwhen I first got the bike, changed it a few times to flush all the rubbish out and it seems ok- fortuneatly it has no play and i do check it a lot.

buy and ride.

 

[Bendy toy]

Nothing like scaring the living shit out of the bloke On the whole the early GS's are excellent machines as any fauts will have been sorted long ago. Taken a few of these early ones on my Alaska jaunts and they without exception perform faultlessly. The FD can be an issue but as long as there is no movement in the back wheel you will be good to go.

Corrosion is an issue on the front engine case but if it's lived in the sunnier climes of France all it's life, it may not be an issue.

You may well be due a service but don't worry as they are simple and cheap enough compared to other bikes. If you are half competent with a spanner you could easily do it yourself.

As Wapping said, just view it as you would anything else and if you like it, but it and enjoy it

If the guy is that fragile (which I doubt) he should not be buying a 2005 bike.

The early 1200 has a weak final drive. Period (as our US friends say). The later bikes steer better and while not perfect the FD is less likely to lunch it's gear teeth.

The OP can search for posts by Patzx12 and see for himself.

The issue has not put me off the bike and I'm a happy owner but I did my research and bought with my eyes open.

Don't belive anyone who says they are all fantastic or who says they are all rubbish. The biggest snag is despite their faults once an R1200GS owner it's very hard to go back. These bikes get under your skin in a way no Honda or any UJMC ever could.