Advice Please - brake warning light 1200 Hexhead

[Brian O]

A mate is having issues where the brake warning light intermittently comes on and stays on,
The bike is a 2007, 1200GSA 38,000 miles ish
The first time it happened while on a jaunt round Cornwall 911 showed something along the lines of - front wheel sensor :signal implausible (faults cleared down with 911)
now around 100 miles later it is showing pump motor defective and power supply to pump motor faulty.

If any would be kind enough to advise how and where this should be investigated it would be very much appreciated

Brian

 

[Mistacat]

If it is ABS 2 it is worth giving the ABS pump motor a tap with a hammer shaft or similar to un stick the brushes.

 

[botus]

pump motor defective 100% normal feature - designed in £1500 fix

or try a hammer as steptoe likes to suggest - the ESP pump brush guides were deliberately set too tight - AKA BMW asked for the same set up as VAG (unlike the safe ones Ford and Merc buy), after some use the carbon motor brushes gum up and the motor doesn't run - when you pull apart one likely worn and stuck and the other side moves freely and looks like new

VAG got done over in class action lawsuit and have to make available a £500 repair kit - as the cheap fix !!!
Lots of places will repair them and guarantee for life these days

its a horrible job to get off - the tank has to come off and there's a pointless 10mm headed bolt on the bottom you can't reach

 

[botus]

its never happened before as you can see here

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=BMW+ESP+pump+motor+repair

 

[DrFarkoff]

Gawd that Fuckwit above does my head in with the Bullshit that it posts

So @Brian O

What is the status now??

Does the brake light still do that intermittent sticking on and staying on?? What usually works to get it switched off ??? just Bumping Brake Levers or a restart ?

100 miles later it is showing pump motor defective and power supply to pump motor faulty This however is pretty common The DC brushes get bumped back in their holders and therefore can;t power the motor and the ECU does not see a complete circuit
A sharp "rap" can bump them free but it is a how long is a piece of string to how long the bump works, the best idea if it repeats is to swap out the motor itself

You do not even need to invade the internal fluid circuits at all (Except to bleed them!)

Will try to get the link and model of ABS unit that you can change the Motor off and either edit it in here or add it below

Many links through the forum But the process is to remove the ABS block valve from the bike

Seal the brake Ports!!!! so no debris can get in!
Also protect the Pins and pocket of the Connector Plug female!

Remove the ABS Motor from the BMW one and replace it with the Ford one

There is some wiggling of getting the bush on the ford to engage the plungers but It can be done with an 8 mm drill bit inserted blunt end into bush and the outer with a bit of masking tape so you don't slice your hand

You could re-stake the alloy but it is as hard as hell and no real way to get a decent punch at it so I drilled 4 x 6mill holes and fitted studs with washers and nuts

2 would have been plenty !! But Hey Ho! First Go!

Put it all together and flush as best you can and then use the GS911 to bleed the brakes