Maybe I just got a good one...GSA as well
Either that or you're filling the front tyre with magic helium
advice with tb zero = zero 1150 gs
- Thread starter moonhead911
- Start date
Either that or you're filling the front tyre with magic helium
When setting the TPS, my DVM seems to sway higher or lower than 37mV but hardly static and when the range got narrowed down near 37mV, i deem the job done. Then again, when i go back to measure it, teh DVM readings are not very far off the mark, at times 50 ish at times subzero. Is this due to my connecting points on the TPS? I had the DVM positive probe clipped to a paper clip inserted into mark "1" on TPS and negative probe on chassis frame. In brief the readings on DVM fluctuate quite a bit.
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
You have to connect the dvm between pins 1 & 4 of the TPS to get an accurate reading. The correct target voltage is 345 mV, +/- 15 mV.
Hi Roger, you are right, if in mV it shd read in 100s but my dvm just not showing it. Either a faulty dvm or connecting points not right.
GORILA I read thru the doc several times, I worked with paper clips, stripped rubber boots and at point 1 and 4, clipped with pos red and neg black probes respectively, ignition on/engine off, dvm readings swing up and down, I just can't stabilise the reading. Or in worse case scenario I have a bad TPS to begin with. But again dvm readings are responding to the turning the TPS, just not right at the numbers I wish for.
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
GORILA I read thru the doc several times, I worked with paper clips, stripped rubber boots and at point 1 and 4, clipped with pos red and neg black probes respectively, ignition on/engine off, dvm readings swing up and down, I just can't stabilise the reading. Or in worse case scenario I have a bad TPS to begin with. But again dvm readings are responding to the turning the TPS, just not right at the numbers I wish for.
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
All sorted. Turns out that pin 4 was not well connected. I had this time with a sewing needle right into the pin. Also I realize with following with probes clipped, ignition on then dvm on will prevent the readings from jumping everywhere. Thanks all for your patience.
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
Roger, you are so extra ordinarily specific and exact.
Dr. f mentioned 370mV earlier in this thread I'd be more used 370mV as the base setting. Any reason your 'suggesting' 345mV? Is that perhaps to make the bike adhere to US emission laws? Just curious
Dr. f mentioned 370mV earlier in this thread I'd be more used 370mV as the base setting. Any reason your 'suggesting' 345mV? Is that perhaps to make the bike adhere to US emission laws? Just curious
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
Roger, you are so extra ordinarily specific and exact.
Dr. f mentioned 370mV earlier in this thread I'd be more used 370mV as the base setting. Any reason your 'suggesting' 345mV? Is that perhaps to make the bike adhere to US emission laws? Just curious
The reason I recommend 340 mV is because that voltage corresponds to the center voltage for 0.32 degrees of throttle opening. I have cross-checked this on multiple R1150s and a couple R1100s (by using one of the diag wires to get a signal that says "centered" and then measuring the voltage). The GS-911 indicates centered at about that voltage too.
Rob Lentini experimented decades ago and came up with the slighter higher voltage recommendation. But he lacked wideband sensors to measure AFR and didn't have a GS-911. As far as I can tell from tests the higher voltage only serves to have the Motronic read closed throttle at 0.64 degrees instead of 0.32 as it should. That might add a teeny bit of fuel on bikes with no O2 sensor. But a better way to do the same thing is tweak the CO pot richer.
P.S. I forget every so often that the magic number calculates to 340.
Similar threads
