After the 1150 GSA tank mod

[spin]

I carried out the mod to the fuel tank of my 1150 GSA to get more capacity. But now the gauge reads one bar short of full even when the tank is brimming.

Anybody any ideas as to cause.?

 

[cookie]

you had the filter/float unit out as well & bent the float fixing wire??

 

[spin]

you had the filter/float unit out as well & bent the float fixing wire??

Oops! Can this be bent back?

 

[cookie]

yes.

maybe it hits the side of the tank before reaching it's proper "full" position. bit of trial & error needed i think.

 

[spin]

yes.

maybe it hits the side of the tank before reaching it's proper "full" position. bit of trial & error needed i think.

many thanks. might have a go later.

 

[davegs]

Thought for today,

Do not use a naked light whilst looking in the petrol tank, (straight from the clymer manual!.)
dave gs.

 

[spin]

you had the filter/float unit out as well & bent the float fixing wire??

I took all apart again but no change. The float unit is situated off to one side & I dont think I had disturbed it the first time.

Any other ideas?

What does the white plastic unit attached to the filler cap do?

 

[cookie]

plug the electrics of the float/pump (removed from tank) into the loom & turn on the ignition. move the float through it's full range & see if all the bars on the RID come on/go off as they should.
there is a 10 second delay before it will register BTW, so don't just wave it about.

if that doesn't work, try cleaning the contacts. there are 2 moving sprung contacts that connect to 2 separate tracks on the unit.

one track has many sections & is the fuel gauge, each section seems to correspond with a block on the RID. make sure they all work.

the other track has 2 sections & only switches on the low fuel lamp AFAICT.

 

[Steptoe]

Why did you remove the pump and float housing to do the "Mod". You only need undo the filler cap, and lift the inner part to the edge of the fuel tank aperture .

No need to disconnect anything

 

[spin]

Why did you remove the pump and float housing to do the "Mod". You only need undo the filler cap, and lift the inner part to the edge of the fuel tank aperture .

No need to disconnect anything

Didnt touch pump or float.

 

[spin]

plug the electrics of the float/pump (removed from tank) into the loom & turn on the ignition. move the float through it's full range & see if all the bars on the RID come on/go off as they should.
there is a 10 second delay before it will register BTW, so don't just wave it about.

if that doesn't work, try cleaning the contacts. there are 2 moving sprung contacts that connect to 2 separate tracks on the unit.

one track has many sections & is the fuel gauge, each section seems to correspond with a block on the RID. make sure they all work.

the other track has 2 sections & only switches on the low fuel lamp AFAICT.

All worked fine before the mod. As the mod was done without touching float etc I am not convinced I need to take float and associated parts to bits.
Not yet anyway.
Do you know what the white conponent attached to the filler neck does?

thanks Spin

 

[cookie]

your post #3 gave the impression (to me anyway) that you had removed internals.

it's a fairly simple mechanism, with few possibilities for problems, so the same fault finding sequence would be in order IMO.

the float position depends on the fuel level. this position is transmitted to the ECU/RID by a set of switches which are on or off. if all of the bars show except the last one, then it seems most likely that the last switch contact is not being made for some reason. it's probably either dirty, the wiper is not making good contact or the float is not moving through it's full travel. i can't see what else it can be

if it was a problem downstream of the switch, the tank connector block say, all readings would be in error.

i suppose it's possible that the last "full" segment of the RID has gone tits up, in which case you're going to need a known good one to test by swapping them over.

i believe the "white component" is a breather shut off valve to stop petrol pissing out when the bike falls over.

 

[Steptoe]

Didnt touch pump or float.

Then why your reply in post 3

I'm staying out of this one.

 

[greggs]

Mine does that too.
I only lifted the filler neck out to drill the hole, as required.
I set my trip metre to zero on filling with fuel, and after some distance ( 100km ? ) the top bar lights up.
Dont sweat it.
When I fill on the side stand, all the bars light up and the top one lasts about 150 km, shame the rest of them dont last that long too......
cheers greg GS

 

[mike wright]

When I fill on the side stand, all the bars light up and the top one lasts about 150 km, shame the rest of them dont last that long too......

yes I wish! ........ 150km per bar would be good