Got a slow puncture attempted to re inflate with compressor via adaptor under seat initially it worked then cut out. Stripping wires and direct contact to battery sorted it out. Is this the canbus system stopping it working
air compressor and canbus ?
- Thread starter redhand
- Start date
AberdeenAngus
Registered user
Some compressors pull more current than the 5A limit. Especially when the pressure gets up and the compressor has to work a bit harder.
Fit an aux socket direct off the battery via a 10A fuse. That'll do you in future.
As a bonus - With a direct socket you can also use a bog standard charger.
Fit an aux socket direct off the battery via a 10A fuse. That'll do you in future.
As a bonus - With a direct socket you can also use a bog standard charger.
buncobooth
Registered user
If you have an Optimate you can buy an adapter to plug into it that will give you a cigarette lighter or BMW plug to connect to.
the OEM socket switches off automatically a few minutes after turning off the ignition. maybe it was just that?
just a thought.
just a thought.
That's because the pressure required is much less. Try pumping up a tyre. Once the pressure builds it cuts out. JJH
I had a fjr a few years ago. Same problem with the 5 amp fuse blowing. I simply replaced it with a 10 amp. Not strictly the correct thing to do but it worked. I'm surprised nobody has come up with a bodge to let the canbus go on till 10 amps. BMW should have addressed this known issue years ago. JJH
linssen
Registered user
I just wired a little loom from Towzatronics to a socket for this exact reason. Towza sells them, but I used a Powerlet one from ADV bike shop, just because it was a bit more robust, and had some weather protection.
To fix it to the bike, rather than drill a hole in the fairing, I 3d printed a mount that clamps to the frame, and stays in place with some cable ties. I'm really pleased with it.
And here it is on the bike.
If anyone wants to print their own, here's the part on Thingiverse.
To fix it to the bike, rather than drill a hole in the fairing, I 3d printed a mount that clamps to the frame, and stays in place with some cable ties. I'm really pleased with it.
And here it is on the bike.
If anyone wants to print their own, here's the part on Thingiverse.
Bendy toy
Registered user
A separate power socket or connecter direct to the battery is more useful and reliable. You could fit a 30A fuse to make it fully fail safe.
My bike had a socket on the frame. It got kakked up with mud and salt. It now has one in the tool tray accessed just below the seat lock.
I personally like the Speakon/Nutrik connectors. They have panel mount and inline types used on PA systems so very tough. Available in 2 pole and multi pole versions. They twist lock so can't vibrate loose like many ciggy lighter type connectors.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEUTRIK-N...015638?hash=item3f5c273f56:g:TqoAAOSwezVWuhkt
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neutrik-N...068573?hash=item51bf41251d:g:GGEAAOSwq5lTptUK
My bike had a socket on the frame. It got kakked up with mud and salt. It now has one in the tool tray accessed just below the seat lock.
I personally like the Speakon/Nutrik connectors. They have panel mount and inline types used on PA systems so very tough. Available in 2 pole and multi pole versions. They twist lock so can't vibrate loose like many ciggy lighter type connectors.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEUTRIK-N...015638?hash=item3f5c273f56:g:TqoAAOSwezVWuhkt
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neutrik-N...068573?hash=item51bf41251d:g:GGEAAOSwq5lTptUK
No it won't. I know that from experience. Anyway 5 amps is 5 amps. Engine running or not. Devide the watts by the voltage to get amps. JJH
You could also lose the sight glass and end up with oil all over place if bike is on and not moving
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I speak from experience with my own 1200. Without the engine running the inflater soon stops as the socket shuts down. And in the time it takes to inflate your tyre, your bike doesn't melt away!
Bendy toy
Registered user
Just connect it direct to the battery. Job done.
DeanoBeano
Registered user
I'm facing this dilemma now. Need some form of power on my F800GS to power a tyre inflater should I need it. I had read that the canbus is not suffice to do this due to the amps, but I've not tried it yet.
Try it you will be then assured that it won't work. Then try one of the many different solutions mentiond here. I pack a kit with 3 of the little compressed gas to do the job. Yes I know it won't get up to 42 psi but it will get me home. JJH
I would advise some kind of pump for anyone with tubed tyers as they are not as handy to fix. JJH
I found this thread helpful, http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/412863-Optimate-Lead-Less-is-more
went for the optimate lead with cig lighter adapter and this mini compressor http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airman-Compact-Compressor-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B006B96OGS
went for the optimate lead with cig lighter adapter and this mini compressor http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airman-Compact-Compressor-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B006B96OGS
Kit monster
Registered user
Not that it's any help in this specific instance but when I bought my 2012 GSA a year ago (first BM) I did my research beforehand, including this forum and quickly decided I needed to be able to add a variety of accessories but would need to get round the CanBus system.
I splashed out on a Rowe Electronics PDM60 (Power Distribution Module) which is effectively a digital fuse box. Two wires to the battery, another to an ignition trigger, a supplied earth bus (for connecting all the negative leads from my accessories). Before fitting it to the bike you connect it to your PC via a supplied lead and set what amp rating you want each circuit to be and can also put in delays for the power to come on and go off. It can handle 60 amps in total and is totally sealed and waterproof. Status lights for each circuit tell you how it's doing. If a circuit blows you switch the bike off and when you re-start the circuit has re-set, so no more fuses to faff about with.
I removed the wiring from the OE 12v socket and connected it to the PDM (compressors sorted). It also powers my Sat navs, accident camera, rear LED fog light, and heated clothing.
I splashed out on a Rowe Electronics PDM60 (Power Distribution Module) which is effectively a digital fuse box. Two wires to the battery, another to an ignition trigger, a supplied earth bus (for connecting all the negative leads from my accessories). Before fitting it to the bike you connect it to your PC via a supplied lead and set what amp rating you want each circuit to be and can also put in delays for the power to come on and go off. It can handle 60 amps in total and is totally sealed and waterproof. Status lights for each circuit tell you how it's doing. If a circuit blows you switch the bike off and when you re-start the circuit has re-set, so no more fuses to faff about with.
I removed the wiring from the OE 12v socket and connected it to the PDM (compressors sorted). It also powers my Sat navs, accident camera, rear LED fog light, and heated clothing.
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