Anyone recommend a place to take my old ST to get the brake and rear wheel oil leak sorted?
Cheers
Cheers
Airhead specialist Somerset
- Thread starter donkeydoo
- Start date
Not quite Somerset but just (10 miles) west of Salisbury I know a guy....he and I found the usual spare parts don't seem to fit but a stock stainless tube cut to the right size does. Works on his ST and my G/S...
May get in touch as not certain where the oil leak is from could even be from one of the drain bolts. Going to order a complete master cylinder as the rebuild kit did not work for the front. Shall get back on to it hopefully as was started a few years ago and life problems got in the way..cheers for the reply
Are Difazio's still a going concern?
Unfortunately not, closed up some years ago. Options I know of are James Sherlock in South Molton or Darren Studley in Dorchester.
My old R80ST had a leak from that area. I cleaned up the spigot that the brake arm attached to and fitted a new 'o' ring IIRC. It was over 20 years ago so I may be imagining the 'o' ring, also I'm a few 12 year old Singletons down the road this evening.
Fat Al
You are correct in that there are o rings on the brake arm.
Early ones had two, later ones had four…..an£ even later ones didn’t need them as there was a solid tube between the two halves of the bevel box.
Sadly, mine doesn’t have the through tube, but it does have 4 o rings…..just replaced them on mine as a little oil was getting onto the brake shoes.
OP……hope you get it sorted
You are correct in that there are o rings on the brake arm.
Early ones had two, later ones had four…..an£ even later ones didn’t need them as there was a solid tube between the two halves of the bevel box.
Sadly, mine doesn’t have the through tube, but it does have 4 o rings…..just replaced them on mine as a little oil was getting onto the brake shoes.
OP……hope you get it sorted
Can I ask is it just a case of remove wheel remove brake arm and replace can I do this without draining oil? cheers
Almost. Yes wheel and brake arm. There are 2 brass bushes which need removing, one in the main casting, one in the lid. These can be driven out in situ with the right size drift (I used a pushrod tube drift) if you are careful. No heat required. If you don’t have a close-fitting drift then probs don’t bother with the whole job. Before you start drifting remove the ‘level’ plug at the back of the housing. I found mine fouled on the tube. So may foul on the bush being drifted out. When refitting the plug ensure it does not crush the tube.
As I mentioned in earlier post, the tubes I got from Motorworks and James Sherlock were a piss fit and leaked and the brake arm was stiff inside the tube. The correct size tube needed to be found and cut to size (we used a lathe).
Hope this helps - if in doubt, stop and if you follow what I say I take no responsibility!!
Try Grahams motorcycles in Taunton. Family run business and he was BMW trained before setting up on his own.
Fitted a new master cylinder think it’s aftermarket from motor works. The thing is weeping between the plastic reservoir and alloy base. Anyone else had experiences with this part.
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