AJ & C go looking for trouble... in Iberia & Morocco

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After an early night and a great Moroccan breakfast, we got on the road for Merzouga. AJ managed to hit the dirt coming out of Dar Laurli - apparently distracted by some locals and a donkey...

Once he'd picked himself up, we took a right turn in an attempt to get the satnav onto a road it knew about. This turned out into be a bit of a maze, going past all the farmers' allotments and palmeries with the dirt track going down to a mere footpath and a ditch.



Eventually we found our way back to the road - here's a shot of AJ coming out of the jungle...



We found the reason why Agdz is so lush...



And then onwards through the desert...



...which of course inspired some more cocking about off road...









The desert is an amazing place to be sometimes...





Shortly after we came across our first herd of Chameau...



...and some villagers gathering their crops.



Filling up north of Rissani it appears a few had been here before us...



The final leg to our hotel in Merzouga was a bit of a challenge, even with satnav and all our off-road practice.

Behold - the Kanz Emmeral!



Yeah, I think this will do...

 
Day 10 - A Sunday ride in the desert.



The hotel, although not the cleanest, was in a great location. The interior was pretty grand for this part of the world...



The light was amazing, so the previous evening we'd gone for a bit of a walk over Erg Chebbi to see the sunset...









As ever, we made a new friend along the way. What these guys do out here, I'll never know.



In the morning we woke to a slightly overcast sky, with temperatures around 25 degrees - perfect for a Sunday jaunt in the desert. :)



Unloading panniers and taking merely the essentials, it was like we had sports bikes...



About a km out of the hotel we hit the sand. This wasn't easy, but it was a lot of fun on the 1200. :)



We headed north on a GPS bearing hoping to intersect Lac Yasmina and came across these
nutters.



Five marathons in five days, carrying all your kit? Yeah, you'll need some water with that. They were lucky as the day before temperatures were in the mid 30s with a clear sky...



We lucked in for a spot more bike porn with the medivac helicopter. The Moroccan army was maintaining an overwatch in a Sioux-like aircraft, but it didn't land for a phot. :(



And so onwards to explore more of the wilderness.



Handling the 1200 in the sand traps wasn't easy, but very rewarding once you made it through. The trick was not to slow down, no matter how much the front end wavered and complained and every bone in your body told you is was going to end with a mouthful of sand. The force was strong in this one...



Of course I'd be lying if I said we didn't have any incidents...



We got a bit warm out there with all our efforts, but with the scenery it was all worth it.



Of course to some, this was just a main road...



After 42 miles through the desert, we stopped in Merzouga for a well earned lunch. A fantastic introduction to desert riding, we will be back for more. :)

 


Buoyed by our adventures in the sand the previous day, we set off early for Fes in search of some bargains for the wives, mistresses and girlfriends back home.

As I was waiting for AJ to select some tracks for the road on his iPod, I spotted a patch of sand and thought "I fancy a bit more of that action before I depart!"

Now attentive readers might realise that my bike was loaded up for our trip and not the lightweight flyer of the day before. I had of course temporarily forgotten this...

Upon realising the bike was sinking, I stopped and assessed the situation, detached the bag and panniers and planned my next move.



OK, so the rear wheel wasn't completely buried, all it required was a bit of power and I could get the front wheel 'planing' over the soft sand.

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I stood, looking at the bike firmly embedded in the sand, like a Formula 1 driver who has just written off his car in the kitty litter. Still, it was merely my pride slightly dented after this event. I did not yet fear the sand! :)



"Ay, she's up to 'er foot pegs now Cap'n!"





With the help of AJ, I lifted the bike out of the hole I'd dug and we were off...

Riding out of the desert, this kind of says it all...





Even had time to make a work call from the wadi office...



Yep, and more bike porn...



Gorges were fantastic...





I never cease to be amazed by how quickly the countryside can change.



Oooh monkeys, we found some monkeys! :)



 
Day 12 - Fez Medina

The next morning we decided to pop into the Market at Fes and got a taxi to drop us at the Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate) in the Medina.



Before 10:00am is a great time to explore as most of the stalls haven't yet opened and the streets are clear of tourists.



It's a car free zone, so mule is the only way to move stuff about...



Our first job was to find a rug and not get taken for a ride. ;)



Lots of waving of arms, setting fire to bits of carpet and drinking of tea later...



By this time, we had perfected the 'walk'.

We made our best offer which the rug seller wouldn't accept and got about 20 yards out of the shop before one of his guys called us back...

I had a deal at 500 dirhams...if it wasn't his first deal of the day, he wouldn't have gone for it. Early bird and all that... :)

With rug under arm, I went hunting for some spices for the kitchen. A bag of cinnamon and cumin for 40 dirhams...



Fes is a great place, I'd rate it over Marakech.



There's still sellers that take the piss - the owner of this beautiful shop wanted 3000 dirhams for a camel bone necklace. :rolleyes:



Even had time for a haircut - but no shave. We were still riding... :)



We'd have stayed for lunch, but the road was calling. :cool:
 
Day 12 - Fes to Algeciras



After a very successful morning shopping in the Medina, we were back at the hotel and all packed by midday. There was a ferry at 17:00, so we planned our dash to the coast.

Of course there was enough time to take in some more scenery...





All the time, the wind was building - on the final run up to the cost along the autoroute we were being blown across two lanes of highway! AJ mentioned on the radio that the ferries might not be running...

On arrival at the port we were met with this sight.



None of the fast cats were running due to the high winds. It was a steady 40 km/h gusting to 75! There were a bunch of guys from Dortmund who were in the same position as us.



The hustlers at the terminal were very helpful and let us shelter in their hut while they sorted us out with a ticket for the 'big boat'.



Of course once we had our ticket, we still had to go to the Gare Maritime building to get a stamp!



We got through customs, which required a bit of guesswork and waited for our ferry at the dockside. After a long wait with the weather blowing a hoolie our ship arrived, surrounded by sea spray...



Good to see a tug was keeping a watchful eye as it backed into the jetty.



One has little to worry about when Jesus and friends are on board with you...



Loading up we got chatting with some of the Germans, who seemed conspicuous by their absence of luggage. Apparently they'd been out in Morocco for 10 days with a support jeep to carry their bags between 4 star hotels.

"How long will it take for you to ride back to Dortmund?" I asked.

"Oh, not long" they replied, "we've got a flight from Malaga in the morning and a man in a van will take our bikes back to the BMW service centre for a full overhaul."

Clearly we had a lot to learn...

Upon boarding the ferry, the police were there to check our documentation. So the dickhead at immigration kiosk hadn't given us an exit stamp! :blast

A quick blast back up the terminal to get a stamp before the ferry left (I love a challenge) and we were sorted.

We sat the bikes next to the Germans, the loaders insisting we put them on centre stands.



Here was our second lesson - never ever trust the bilge pigs on deck. Always check your bike is tied down to your satisfaction. More about this later... :rob

The ferry seemed to take an age to let go its lines and push away from the jetty, but we were finally underway just after 22:00.

I'd learned a long time ago that the best thing to do in rough seas was to stick the iPod on and start pushing out some zeds. With lots of Moroccan's around us throwing up and being generally unwell, I was happily listening to some Nickleback, dreaming of riding those desert roads.

It seems like the BMW twat suit was made for sleeping in - no need for a sleeping bag in future!



I woke up as we were passing Gib to find our bikes had fallen over onto the German's...

Luckily our machines hadn't sustained any damage, which was pretty amazing considering that not only were there no tie down points near any of our bikes, but the bilge pigs had merely tied them to the bulkhead with a metre of bailer twine! I'd have expected the bikes to be at the other end of the ship.

One GSA suffered damage to its screen, but when challenged the bilge pigs just shrugged their shoulders in a typically French fashion and said they couldn't do anything as the weather was bad.

We drove away with a free lesson.... :comfort
 
great stuff and not a knobblie in sight:augie
 
excellent stuff.a few of us going next week,youve given us some good tips. thanks. j
 


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