me: “I need to just pop back into Russia”
wife: “You need to just pop back into Russia”
me: To get Brian some hand cleaner”
wife: “To get Brian some hand cleaner”
me: “Why are you repeating what I’m saying back to me?”
wife: “I’m hoping you’ll see how stupid that sounds if I say it back to you”
me: “You’re hoping I’ll see how stupid that sounds if you say it back to me”
wife: “I see what you did there

Why the actual fuck do you want to take all that risk and spend all that time at the border just to ‘pop’ back in to Russia. That would be like going to the moon for a piss”
me: “Well, I really do need a wee, and, I’ve never been to the moon”
wife: “Whatever. I give up”
Submission. Permission. Same thing right? I’m riding right past the door of Kaliningrad, and I need to achieve at least one of my trip goals. It would be a regret if I didn’t and my wife clearly stated that if I came home with any of those then there will be problems. This is my “get out the garage free” card. I’m going in.
Many of the borders to Kaliningrad are currently closed. There is, I think, one open with Poland and one with Lithuania. I tried the Poland one and that didn’t would out. I went on the web last night and booked a slot at the Kybartai crossing. If there are queues like Poland my hair trigger patience will expire and I’ll just go home in a sulk.
But first breakfast. I saw somewhere last night. I’m there early for when it opens. Along with a dozen others. That’s always a good sign. Doors open, and in we go. “Yebisah” by Mark Night is playing loud on the speakers. Forget what I said about tools, milk and nana cakes, Anywhere paying dance music at 7:30am surrounded by the scent of warm pasty and coffee. I’m buying a yearly pass.
You buy cakes by weight. Point and bag. “Two of those please, one of those and one of those”. She puts two of everything in the bag. I could correct her, but that would be rude. And I’m never rude.
Don’t fuck about. Go here. Bring your appetite and your dancing shoes. I’ll see you there.
The music coffee pastry combo completely recharges my smiles and I end up leaving very happy, but late. It’s about 130 miles and it’s a fractious ride, slipping and sliding about, the turtles head bobbing in and out with every near death experience. The Bitch is feeling major twitchy, like she's pulled a muscle or something. She's not happy about something for sure. That's all I need.
Get to Kybartai and it’s cleared up a bit at least. I wouldn’t want to wait for hours in the pissing rain. Eventually find the “waiting area”. I’m a bit early. Maybe it will fill up later.
Or not. What exactly am I waiting for? 2050? A woman comes out a shed and just says “go”. I ride back up the road to the border barriers. There’s nobody in the hut. It all looks shut. There isn’t anyone else here. Then I see a small sign. Apparently you have to buzz yourself out of Lithuania now

. Press the button, a remote voice says “I will open” and up goes the barrier. Never seen that before
Ride round to the controls. I’m the only one there.
Jump start the nana behind the desk and I’m out in 10 minutes and through to the Russian side. It’s quite an eerie experience to be honest. Like a dream with nobody else in it.
Sometimes, like now, realty jumps right out in front of me and smacks me hard in the face with a bat. I’m here alone in no man’s land going back into Russia, poking the bear once more. Why am I here? I’m definitely not brave. Maybe I’m stupid. Or maybe it’s a coping mechanism. I know without any doubt that the world could happily cope without me, but I couldn’t cope with the world without moments like these. They’re my mental escape capsules. Places I can run and hide when I’m struggling with the reality in front of me. When the voices are in danger of breaking free and tearing into the tedious tosspot boring my bollocks off. . When a colleague is telling me he’s worried about his pet fish because it seems to be opening and closing its mouth more often. When someone is just wasting my life. I need to come back here, look around and breathe. I’m not unique. We all do it. I might have a few more capsules than most, and some might have some odd names on the doors, but it’s a basic human necessity.
Get to the Russian border. There is only one other car here. A Ukrainian/German/Russian who is currently being fined for trying to bring in too much cat food. It's not even his cat. It's his girlfriends. Yes really.