Almost Madness

You get very used to having cars and trucks overtaking towards you and in the main they’ll get back in about .5 of a second before making contact with the bike, but every now and again, when a truck decides to jump a link in a Truckapilla and cannot get back in, then you’re confronted by furiously flashing lights and you know you’re in a deathly game of Truck, Biker, Scissors. Taking to the gravel emergency lane would make my sphincter implode so I use close my eyes and head for the small gap between truck and tragedy and hope for the best.

Loads of roadworks still😳. 10 minute waits. Lots of the cars are still wearing their winter duvet nose bags


Stop for a coffee and fuel. A nice blonde lady offers me a mini-tart “from my heart”. Not something that I usually get offered at the M3 services :)

 
This is getting very hard and very tedious now. I’m making myself promises that I must keep. I want to stay on the island in Lake Baikal in a few days. I need to treat myself and I need just a few hours away from this road.

A couple of nose bags turned up last night. Seeing them on the road you think they’re custom made in Chinese sweatshops and cost a week’s wages. On inspection however, it’s the usual pragmatic Russian approach of cheap foam and a shit load of sticky tape😁


Today is a special day. We’re climbing the hill out of town and The Bitch’s Odometer clicks over her 100th birthday. Ktm speeds and distances are about as reliable as a man measuring his own Hampton but I’ll take it anyway. Given all that she’s done it’s quite appropriate she passes this milestone out here on the “Sibir”. I just hope. I really really really hope she can get us both home safe and sound. I’m a fucking stupid distance away now. And I’m feeling a little .. apprehensive.

 

I do actually begin to recognise some of the road now. The odd filling station, or a vista opening over a hill. And I’ve got the train for company too now. The track was running alongside again today and I slowed right down to rode alongside it for a while. That’s a comfort at least.

Stopped for fuel just outside a town and all was well. Go about 100 yards down the road and the satnav says I’m doing 90mph, but I’m doing about 30. It says I’m riding west, even though I’m going east, and it suddenly adds about 59 miles to my elapsed miles… it’s gone absolutely bat shit crazy like I’ve never seen before! And then the signal goes completely.

Now I’m not sure but this may be the place recently visited by a truck full of drones. It’s was out this way for sure. Either way, there is a new concrete ring road round the town and I would take a bet that going inside would not be encouraged😳. Strange things indeed.

 
The bloody bike is overheating again now. It gets hot very quickly and takes an age to cool. This could be bad. I’ll just have to fill the expansion tank at every fuel stop and cross my fingers. Pray for me…

And to top it off, I try to put the bike on the centre stand and I snap the fucking bloody bastard tossing mirror off 🤬🤬🤬🤬. I grab some bloke from the car park, show him my empty tube of Liquid Metal/PlayDoh they sell in Russia and he goes fast forward jibber jabber and starts pointing. He shows me a picture of a shop then shows me it shuts in 30 minutes😞. Off I trudge in my leathers, sweat pouring down my back, heart heavy in my chest. Find the shop at least. It’s a small town. A half horse town. But he has liquid cheese and I buy as many as he has.


I’m getting really worried now. Properly worried about this overheating. There is no water in the oil, it’s just getting hot and throwing the water out. Let’s just see what tomorrow brings.

 
My moods are still going up and down faster than knickers in a knocking shop. When I went to bed last night I was for putting The Bitch on the train in Irkutsk and taking it back to Moscow. I get outside this morning and she’s looking at me with that “WHAT?” look on her face. I don’t argue with her when she’s in this mood. It would be like playing catch with a glass bottle of nitro glycerine.


I’m almost at my furthest east now. I’m over 6k. In a couple of days I’m turning first south, then west and back towards home. Maybe The Bitch can make it. I’m thinking of letting her ride topless. Let the breeze blow between her bristols and see if that helps. She’s well up for that, but I’m not sure I have enough sun tan lotion to cover a pair that size.

 
Stop early for a change. A cafe at the end of the universe. Flat horizon all around. They do eggs. I fancy some eggs, bread, and maybe a couple of those arsehole, scrotum, lips, tits and tackle ‘meat’ patties that girl over there is eating please.

“Any special requests?”

“Yes please. I’d like that waitress with the really runny nose to walk about in the car park for 20 minutes with my meal until the entire plate is absolutely brimming with snot”.

“Da. No problem”.

I FUCKING HATE snotty eggs. I HATE THEM. But I’m so hungry I close my eyes and suck the snot through my teeth pretending it’s just jelly😳

 
It’s only 300 miles today. A short one. The traffic has been light and I’ve not seen the temperature gauge move at all. She’s playing with me. I know she is.

I’m looking at her right now. Parked in the shade at the hotel. Butter wouldn’t melt. She’s looking back. Enigmatic. Inscrutable. What the fuck is going on with her. Can that lump of metal get me 6000 miles home? Will she?

 
This afternoon she was in full on head fuck mode. I am staying on the south shore of Lake Baikal. The biggest fresh water lake in the world. It’s over 500 miles long😳 I was going to stay on an island but that would have added another 300km.

The road goes over some mountains and down a long steep narrow twisting road into the bay. The road has a queue of traffic nose to tail 5 miles long. The trucks are all crawling down in low gear and this is absolute death for The Bitch. So I start riding up the inside, outside, over the white lines, anywhere to get an advantage. I’m crawling along but the temperature isn’t going up. Result I think👍. Amazing. Fantastic.

I see a police car in the queue. Fuck fucking FUCK fuckidy fuck. I go alongside. Ask if I can go on the outside. Crossing the line. That’s normally plod’s favourite crime out here. He angrily just waves his hand, which I take as “please, be my guest” and go full English and drive on the left as much as I can. But it’s painfully slow as there are trucks and cars crawling up too. I get a massive shock as I hear 2 lorry tyres explode just behind me. Fuck, I thought I was being attacked!

Eventually I get to the hotel and the gauge still hasn’t changed. When I turned it off it made a sort of “I’m done” noise. And there has obviously been lots of dirty brown liquid squirting out from somewhere😞. Maybe the gauge is fucked now too. I haven’t tried restarting it yet. I’m worried it just won’t. Can someone please put me in touch with a psychologist so they can tell me just why the actual fuck I do these things.

 
What an epic trip, visiting Lake Bailkal would be the highlight for me.

I hope the bike gets you home okay.
 
What an epic trip, visiting Lake Bailkal would be the highlight for me.

I hope the bike gets you home okay.

I'm surmising he's home already, the pictures were uploaded back in July.
 
Those are date stamps of when the pictures were actually taken :)
But you're home safely already are you? Thought they could have been when uploaded to flicker as the times were close for the different locations. Not that it matters. It was just that it's happened rather than happening.
 
Don’t do this adventuring thing. Just don’t. Ever.

Woke up thinking what the actual FUUUCK have I got myself into here😳. This is really not good at all.

My Russian mate has given me an address of a ‘bike post’ about 100 miles away. These are a network of community run sort of road houses where bikers can meet, stay, eat and hopefully help each other. I’m thinking this will be a waste of time but it’s Saturday and the freighters he suggested will most likely be closed for the weekend.

Go to the garage. Fill the expansion tank with antifreeze.. again. Start her up and head off. The route back is steep and tortuous. The bike isn’t getting an easy ride but the gauge isn’t moving. The thing is though, my right foot is getting hot. It’s getting hot because it’s covered in hot water. Hot water that should be in the engine, not on my boot and leg🤬😞. Stop after 50 miles and refill the expansion tank. This bike is not going to get me home in this state. That’s a fact.


I stop at a jet wash. To clear the radiator. Because that will fix it. NOT😞


Get to the location and it’s an abandoned building. BEAM ME UP SCOTTY. DO IT RIGHT FUCKING NOW!!

I hear footsteps approaching in the puddle of tears im sitting in with my thumb in my mouth. A bloke with a pork pie hat on. He points at the closed building, picks up his phone and looks at me. Someone will be coming in 10 minutes. Now all you lot who are hard anti-Russian haters can just fuck off right now. Forget what you see, what you read and what someone told you.

The Russian people are generally extremely helpful, very polite and show no animosity whatsoever. If today proves anything it’s that they’re good people. They look after each other and strangers too. Obviously that’s a generalisation but I would not get the same levels of help and patience in many countries I go to. Not unless there was something in it for them.


So we look at the bike. Water is dripping on the floor from the front. I can see at the top left of the radiator it’s all wet but that’s where the pressure cap is too. Water leaks are an absolute prize bastard to pinpoint at the best of times.

I know what’s coming. But I don’t want to do it. And The Bitch doesn’t want to get naked and be examined and poked at by Russian men. Well I’m afraid love this is what happens if you piss on my feet.


Take all the clothes off, and the tank. It’s all wet around the pressure cap but there is water everywhere. One of the blokes examines the pressure cap. Pokes it. Blows it. Declares it operational. Or should that be ‘Russian operational’😁 I get the torch and have a look at the radiator.

There is a mount just above the fans and at some time or another I have hit a speed bump the size of Alison Hammond and it’s actually bent the mount and compressed the top of the radiator. Cunty arse wanky knob pimples. Shit fuck shit shag and bollocks. FUUUCING HELLLL.

 
So now we go next level. Out comes the radiator. A bastard job. And here I have it in my hand. I can’t see a hole but I’m not Joe 90 and I don’t have glasses thicker than a submarine door. So we jump in a car to go and see a mechanic. We arrive just as a couple of SU-27 fighters scream over and head west😳.

The mechanic has spent the morning bathing in soot and oil. He’s like a miner/oil rig worker cross breed. I’ve never seen anything like it. Jeeeeesus Christ almighty. I walk in through a gate and a rabid dog comes running only to be drawn up by a chain an inch from my leg. Another old bloke is sitting smoking. Pissed as a fart. But what a face this bloke has got. A proper old face with a map of his life etched into his skin. Clear blue eyes swimming about in a mist of cigarette smoke. I want to take his picture, but he doesn’t look too friendly.

The oily chimp grabs my radiator, starts up a small compressor and sticks a rubber bung in the upper hose hole, holds his hand over the lower hole and gets his mate to stick his finger in the other one while they dip it in an old bathtub full of filthy water.


While I choose the last ice cream of the condemned man

 
And there are bubbles😞😞. The radiator has a hole in where it has compressed. I’m out of swear words by now. I just grab shit and happens and squeeze the little bastards until their eyes nipples and balls stick out. YOU LITTLE FUCKERS.

Oily chimp issues instructions to someone and I jump back into the car to go to the local Petrol Station/bakery/porn/automotive pastes and potions shop. The bloke I’m with doesn’t know what exactly to buy so I do a supermarket sweep and pay half their yearly turnover. Back to the oily chimp and he declares one of the selections suitable and then proceeds to destroy my radiator by rubbing it hard with a piece of sandpaper manufactured some time around 1910 and used constantly since😳. He pours on some cleaning fluid, makes up the aluminium glue and slaps it in. Then tells us to fuck off for 20 minutes😁

 


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