Alps 2013 report & Pictures

Good report, me ol' fruit :thumb2

Interesting (sort of, at least) to see the average speeds. Proably realistic for two up travelling with stops. It's not as fast as (some) people imagine it will be, sometimes.
 
Rasher, what's the name of said hotel, sounds interesting?????

In the report somewhere, but here you go....

http://www.alforte.com/en/hotel/


Good report, me ol' fruit :thumb2

Interesting (sort of, at least) to see the average speeds. Proably realistic for two up travelling with stops. It's not as fast as (some) people imagine it will be, sometimes.

The Dolomites were noticeably slower than the other Alpine areas I have visited as the passes were generally tighter and closer together, plus some of the valleys were stuffed full of tourist towns / resorts so it lacked faster sections compared to many other places. There was also a bit more traffic around the Pordio, Sella, Gardena as they link several towns together.

Stop times can also be long, just because I like to stop at the top of each pass, and when riding 6-7 passes in a day that is a lot of stopping, then you see other photo opportunities or places worthy of a quick visit (like the WW1 Museum) these days over 90% of our pictures are taken on the move otherwise we would spend a lot more time stopped.
 
Day Seven

We were now on our last full day in the Dolomites and I was fully aware of how you need more time here, just to ride the "main" passes four full days would be the minimum and five or six days preferable to explore off the beaten track and / or do some of-bike tourism, although some have other solutions*

I wanted to get in a good chunk of the remaining passes on my "list", I had a ten pass route that would do the trick and cover some passes already ridden, I reversed this to cover the previously ridden passes in the other direction - you really need to ride a pass both ways to appreciate / judge it, something I have rarely had the time to do.

We set off over Pordoi again, a great pass, but does suffer some traffic, this had cleared by Costalunga, a nice pass which is not so tight and then turned off onto Passo Lavaze, which by memory was also pretty decent.

We then started up the San Pellegrino, but seemed to get to the top without experiencing any corners, the road sort of meandered left a bit, right a bit, but had no sharp bends, all rather crap I initially thought, then the descent down the East ramp provided some fantastic tight switchbacks, all well surfaced and smooth - normal service had been resumed.

Next up was Valles, as far as I remember this was also a good stretch of road, but more open, just before the bottom was the turning for Passo Rolle, and we were back to much tighter corners...




This was another great run to test tyres and brakes, and I was happy to still have straight discs having warped a set on the GS, and two sets on my old ZZR on roads like these, it really does test the bike, especially two-up, I was starting to worry I should have fitted new pads just for this trip.


The surface was excellent pretty much everywhere on this trip and this pass was no exception, most roads were this good, smooth with decent tarmac, apart from the tightness of many corners well suited to all bikes, and most the tight bends were still fast enough to hold second on the S10, and very few required clutch slipping tactics.



At the bottom of Rolle you enter a small town, but within a couple of minutes we had started the climb up Cereda, we had come along the other way the day before on the way to Brocon and Manghen so would be riding Cereda and Aurine the other way.

Both Cereda and Aurine are twisty with some tight hairpins, but well surfaced and off the beaten track, not that we had come across much traffic whilst on the more major roads, but these passes are pretty much deserted, the ride seemed as good as yesterday, but I think the views were better this time (heading South to North)

We still had Duran and Stualanza to cover, but the storm clouds were gathering so we decided to shortcut through Alleghe back towards the Hotel - not a bad ride in itself, certainly much better than most UK roads, but it meant missing two of the major passes off the list.

Just before we got back the skies opened, within seconds the road was a river and the rain so heavy visibility down to almost nothing, my speed was about 20mph (just off idle in second) and at this pace I caught and passed a couple of cars!

Aquaplaning was the main concern as the road seemed about an inch deep in water, by the time I thought I better pull my trousers out of my boots I also had an inch of water in them - never mind only a few miles to go.

* Upon our return a few of the AR mob had already started on the beer, now I had mentioned needing 4,5 or 6 days, one of the regulars had left after us and ridden 17 passes and was already sat drinking, you probably think it must be some fast dude on Supermoto, but it was in fact a sixty-something fella on a GS1100G, somewhat annoyed the weather had stopped him riding his planned 20 passes.

169 Miles
30mph Moving Average
5:40 in the seat
7:20 total
52 mpg
 
I have done the 17 Pases in a day route, in a day.

Getting in the three (or whatever it is) extra passes in is going some. We were going to do them but found ourselves back in Arabba (our start point) and the beer bugle had sounded.

Oh well, another day.

PS 50+ something or other :D
 
Day Eight

Suddenly the holiday seemed to be vanishing real quick, the previous evening was spent drinking with new friends, today I was saying goodbye to them all, and setting off on the last part of my trip and on into Austria.

No need to be up early as we had an easy ride and good weather forecast so we waved a few others off before departing on the route I had knocked up that morning with input from various folk who spotted me outside at 8:00am with maps and sat-nav.

Decided to re-visit Lake Misurina and go up to the top of the Tre Cime di Laveredo (a one way toll road) the view was worth the detour and cost



Photo's never do these views justice, with your own eyes the panoramic view and scale of the mountains is so much better, as is the experience of drawing in the extremely cool and fresh Alpine air.

Back down the other side we set off towards Austria starting over Passo mauria, not a great pass, it is a fairly major road and generally faster than the passes I had got used to, but as ever decent enough with good scenery and not much traffic, plus wide and smooth tarmac which made for quick and easy progress until....

Monte Zolcan, this was a "short-cut" road with the opportunity to bag another pass of the unknown variety, the surface was actually very good and there was many advertising posters with push bikes pictured all the way up, I guess it had recently been used in a big race, or was about to be, there was also a fair few people peddling up the mountain.

The road is very tight (don't bother on a sports-bike) but not too bad on the Tenere, most the climb was wooded so not much in the way of views until the top, the south ramp up was pretty much first gear on every corner, with the odd bit of 2nd gear on the "straights". Up top the views were great and there was about 30-40 classic Ducati's parked up, but oddly only a couple of vans so I have no idea how the rest got there :nenau



On the East ramp there is a fair sized Ski Resort, mucho closed but a privately run Hotel and Restaurant seemed glad of whatever business came by and knocked us up some good value food whie we sat soaking up the views and clean (but now very warm) air, up top was a pleasant 20c, but this place was about half way back down and about 30c, rule of thumb on this trip was it would be very hot below 1500m and not really nice and cool until around 2,000m.

This descent dropped us at the south end of the Plocken which crosses into Austria, the Italian side was very well surfaced, surprisingly the Austrian side was really rough, like a motocross track with potholes, cracks and an utterly shite surface, I was wondering if I should have just spent the extra days back in the Dolomites!

The Austrian side was more flowing and lead onto the Gailberg Sattel, another so-so pass by the rather high standards I had become accustomed to, but as we were going from A-B the faster roads were appreciated. The pass had some fantastic switchbacks at the North end and then dropped into a small town, and upon turning right at a junction I felt a quite worrying slide from both tyres, looking back I could see no cause for this except some over-banding I assumed may have melted (30+ degrees again)

From here we had a steady run the rest of the way to Gastof Hochalmspitze, good to his word John appeared and got the beers in and gave us a key to our spacious room.

Being a Brit run place we found ourselves with more English speaking company so after a shower we sat outside eating drinking and chilling out.





37 Mph Average (Warp Factor Nine!)
7:15 total time
5:05 In the saddle
53mpg

Hotel:

http://www.hochalmspitze.com/
 
Been following your blog with interest as I am heading to europe for a couple weeks, heading to see John in Austria for a few days with my brother. Excellant report; interestedted to hear of your highlights, but from where i am, it all looks fantastic. Cant wait to set off from Scotland on 6th September ........
 
Been following your blog with interest as I am heading to europe for a couple weeks, heading to see John in Austria for a few days with my brother. Excellant report; interestedted to hear of your highlights, but from where i am, it all looks fantastic. Cant wait to set off from Scotland on 6th September ........

John can sort you out with routes, we planned all of our other routes, but left those near John as he has so many tried and tested routes and with his local knowledge just tell him what you want, how long you want to be gone for and he will fix you up :thumb
 
Day Nine

I knew before we got here that 3 nights was about half what would be a sensible stop to get around the area, so I had a small list of passes I wanted to try, as it was Sunday I wanted to leave the Grossglockner until Monday, this left just the Nockalmstrasse for today, John knocked up a nice little easy route that would save the Nockalm until last.

The roads were far more free flowing around here, it started with the Katschbergpass, a short pass that leads into the longer Radstadter Pass (B99) this is a great road, few hairpins allow you to flow along, we had a local come past us and show his local knowledge with some knee down action (although he was hanging off like a gibbon) we managed to hang with him for a short while, but he edged out 20-30 metres per corner (Sportsbike Vs two-up adventure bike left me nothing to be ashamed off, I reckon solo I may have been able to annoy him all the way up the pass)

We looped around for the start of the Nockalm, a toll road we got for free with the pass John hands out to guests, this road is truly fantastic, I think the hype had left me somehow expecting more, but unless they put loop-the-loop bits in I don't really know how it could be much better - maybe less traffic, but it was a Sunday, and was still clearer than any decent (well 1/4 decent as that is as good as I get it back home) road in the South of England ever is on a Sunday.



I know it is a long way to come, but these roads are worth the trip, which is why so many come back time and time again, at the AR meet there were people who have been riding the alps for 3 or 4 decades, and one chap who was on his 49th successive Alps trip, having never missed a ride here for almost 5 decades.

Anyone who claims we have roads as good in the UK is utterly deluded!


We got back nice and early which gave us time to ride up the Maltatal which starts a few miles up from the Hotel, another toll road (also free to us) which heads up to a very impressive Dam and lake, with a nice restaurant up the top, this road is also stunning, and considering it was a Sunny Sunday pretty light on traffic, more great perfectly surfaced curves.



As we had set off bright and early for the Nockalm we were up the top in time for Lunch, with time to chill out for a while before heading back down and having the second half of the afternoon "off the bike", well we rode down to the Animal sanctuary a mile or so from Hochalmspitz and wandered around for a bit, there is also a motor museum nearby and loads of other things to do that do not involve riding a motorcycle, but this kept the Mrs happy - and we were still back in time for me to do a solo run up the Maltatal.


146 Miles
Total Time @6:00
Saddle Time 3:25
42 mph
54 mpg
 
I love reports like this ..thanks for sharing it with us all ... great photos and luvvvvvly scenery !
 
Day Ten

This was the last of the "Big Days" and only really had one pass on the list - the Grossglockner. John had advised us to avoid going up / down just before after Lunch as that tends to be busiest with coach tours heading up for lunch.

We arrived at the bottom after a pleasant run along faster twisting roads, at the toll we only received an eight Euro discount with our card so it still cost about £18 for the privilege of riding this road, so I was hoping it would be good.

From the South we were at the end with the Glacier, not overly impressed but mainly due to arriving at a huge complex with Multi-Storey car park, I prefer my Alpine Vista's a bit less crowded and certainly less built upon, so a couple of pics and off again.

I was now concentrating more on the road and it was a real treat, once again the "busy" road was actually very light on traffic compared to back home, it must be pretty awesome at the edges of the season. The road also makes for easy overtaking, cars tend to move over, but generally you come across then in 1's and 2's and are rarely held up for long, this was true of many of the faster Austrian roads, in the Dolomites the roads often hugged the mountains edge and forward visibility was often quite limited making passing a bit harder.



The "pass" has a double dip, so you go up, down a bit, and then up again, at the top proper we headed up to the "Bikers Rest" which is an extra high bit reached by narrow cobbled road, unfortunately capitalism had got the better of the place and they now allowed cars up so we got stuck behind some right div on the way up, and another moron on the way back down, worth it to say we had been up there though, just a shame they let the tin boxes use it.




There was also plenty of snow around at the top, especially once over the top and on the North facing slopes (quite typical as the snow gets melted of the South Facing slopes quite easily, but the Northern slopes are well sheltered)

The descent down the southern end is fantastic, as you may expect for a road designed to test cars on would be, especially when paying £25 for the privilege. If solo on a lads trip I would probably have run back and forth a second time and would recommend allowing time for this if heading out here, helps get your money's worth as well.

The return route was more of the faster Austrian roads, both twisty and free from traffic by UK standards, with scenery which is never anything other than fantastic, as with other routes around here all of the roads are good with plenty of bends, but allow for reasonable progress to be made and are suitable for larger bikes, your not exactly going to max out, but will at least be able to get into top gear now and again.

I am a bit low on stats for the dayas I forgot to reset the sat-nav, the route is about 175 miles, it could have been longer with a couple of extra passes, but the roads north of the Grossglockner had been damaged in the recent floods with mucho roadwork's and diversions on the passes I originally planned to ride so we took a more direct route back for an easy day, but this could have been turned into a long day out with 3-4 extra passes.

75 Miles
@ 40mph
@ 4:15 in the seat
@ 6:30 Total time
54mpg
 
Day Eleven

Time to start heading home, the plan was to check out the "Eagles Nest" and then cut across the Austrian tyrol until we felt like stopping.

Once again we had amazing weather, although just a shade chilly as we set off fairly early to follow another route john had thrown together for us, what a top bloke :thumb

The advice was to follow the B99 / B159 pretty much all the way, this road just follows the Motorway (but without the Boredom) and as a motorway runs alongside it there is very little traffic. This gave us another run over the Katschberg Pass and Radstadter Tauern Pass, both very pleasant - as is the B159 which swoops along for mile after mile alongside the rest of the Motorway until Saltzburg.

The Eagles Nest is probably the biggest waste of tourist dollars I have ever achieved, the "tour" does not go past any of the historic buildings where Hitler and other top Nazi's lived, but just takes you to the nest itself by coach, the building has been converted to a modern restaurant destroying all heritage and period features, and the famous patio area is now a huge beer garden complete with hot dog stall - what they have done here is probably the last crime of WW2.

The views are good....



But we have experienced better views without being £30 worse off


We now had a couple of hours on (fast) Austrian motorway to Innsbruck, in sweltering 35c heat, we turned off and started up the Kuhtaisattel, at the same time we gained some cloud cover, the combo of altitude and shade was lovely, and the Pass was decent enough, a good sweep up an open slope, looked and felt more like roads in Scotland / Wales.

Over the top we secured the Hotel deal of the Holiday, the Mrs spotted a nice looking Hotel with a couple of bikes outside, as we approached about 6 more pulled in, by the time we got there the only ensuite room they had left was an apartment, for a rather pleasing £60 B&B.

Gastof Waldesruh was the place, highly recommended at these prices!


259 Miles
48 MPH
5:15 Ride Time
56 MPG


Day 12

This was the last day with any Alpine riding, by the end of it we would be in the Black Forest.

The day started well, more good weather and a pass right outside the Hotel, the Siltzer Sattel was far from a highlight, but was a nice way to warm up the tyres / rider.

From here we took the Hahntenjoch and Hochtanbergpass (B198) more sweeping roads with not too many hairpins, and as ever well surfaced with minimal traffic - although a fair number of villages to slow progress, this is the tight section descending from the Hahntenjoch




Once over our last Alpine Pass things stayed pretty good for a while, the B198 became the L200, another great biking road for any bike / biker, I knew at this point I would not see roads of this quality for another year.



This road took us to Lake Konstanz, at which point we left behind our Alpine Weather and hit rain (and traffic (lots of both) the traffic died once well clear of the Lake area and onto Black Forest back roads and the rain eased off later and dried out as we got close to our destination of Pension Williams so the last few miles were enjoyable.

252 Miles
6:15 in the saddle
8:00 Hours Total
41 mph Average
54 Mpg

The Rest

I managed an early morning run up and down the B500 with another fellow who was at the Hotel when we arrived (The sun had returned :D)

The rest of the day was off the bike, taking advantage of the Free public transport we went to Baded Baden (now a biking holiday ritual)

The following day we had plenty of time so did not need to hurry, an easy run to Two Wheel Moorings in perfect weather, we took in a few WW1 sites on the way to add some interest and get us of the motorway early.

The following day was the dreary run back home, well made more interesting by the huge lightening storm we set off in, this soon cleared to normal rain, and then drizzle and was dry by Calais.


I have already booked 3 nights near Andermatt for next year, got the rest of the winter to plan the rest of the trip :bounce1
 
Day Eleven

.....

Once again we had amazing weather, although just a shade chilly as we set off fairly early to follow another route john had thrown together for us, what a top bloke :thumb...................

/QUOTE]

"thrown together" !!

I'll have you know that is a carefully crafted, much researched route that required repeated riding on my part to get just right. How I suffer to get our routes right and I continually have to go out and check nothing has changed. At least that is what I tell Ros.

The B99 really is one of my favourite routes and a much better choice than the A10 autobahn. unless like the last big group arriving here you are running 4 hours late and it's dark. I would opt for the autobahn after dark but then I ride an 1150 and the lights are a joke.

John
 
The advice was to follow the B99 / B159 pretty much all the way, this road just follows the Motorway (but without the Boredom) and as a motorway runs alongside it there is very little traffic. This gave us another run over the Katschberg Pass and Radstadter Tauern Pass, both very pleasant - as is the B159 which swoops along for mile after mile alongside the rest of the Motorway until Saltzburg.

Agreed :thumb2

I stopped at the 'Where Eagles Dare' Castle at Werfen

IMG_2343.JPG
 
Rasher,

This is an absolutely great trip report Rasher!!! I am making the flight to Europe to tour the Alpines and Europe with Edelweiss motorcycle touring group 2015. I hope to grab the breath taking photos you did and enjoy the thrill of the ride like your photos showed. Maybe I will get a chance to meet you face to face like the blokes from Manchester UK whom I cruised with on Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines this past November.

Take care & thank you for a very well put together trip report,

Salt & Peppa Jr. (Lee)
Buffalo Soldiers M/C of Atlanta, Georgia (USA)
 
Thanks, glad you liked it, others posting reports got e started so I like to pass it on.

Take plenty of money! You will find things a bit pricey compared to the USA with fuel / food costing about double what you are used to!

We are going to Switzerland again this coming year (2014) and who knows for 2015 - but more than likely we will be somewhere in the Alps again.

Look forward to seeing your pictures :thumb2
 


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