Ev is still out there. He got sun stroke today
Yes, sorry folks, but as Arsey has mentioned, I have indeed suffered a "sun stroke" first thing on Monday morning. "Great" weather has finally arrived and without further a doo, I was on my way…. TBC.
As Arsey implied, I am shit at route planning, well I have planned it well, just with a GREAT CHUNK OF OPTIMISM AND ENTHUSIASM. Trying to do 250-300 miles in a day on the mountain roads and in a countries (Suisse, France, Österreich, Belgique) largely restricted to a 50mph speed limits, endless bladder emptying and consequently refilling it with a fresh hot brew, odd swing of that clear stuff, merely just a few moments later, astonishing views round the next bend, for miles to come, that are irresistible not to stop, have a look and take a pic or two. Consequently, what seem like a few moments later , one does straddle the mighty 1290, helmet on, gloves on, hit the "Race On" button, the display comes on and a moment or two later so does the NAV IV (yes BMW NAV on KATOOM

). "SHIT!!!, that's another 20 minutes added to my journey, I am sure I was only 3-5 minutes tops, fuck, fuck, fuckiedie fuck…….." and so it carries on, until you finally arrive to the hotel in the dark, that you've booked weeks ago and changing the location of your stay halfway through the day means loosing Wonga. It is indeed a hard ask to arrive to a hotel by 5pm, having started the journey at around 9am in the morning
So having had a couple of days to blast around south of France with our own Arsey lad, taught me something for the next trip. 150-180 miles a day is a realistic journey if you want a relaxing and stress free trip. 200-250 miles at a push if you are in the northern France, ploughing through the endless expanses of farming land. However plan a ride through Ardennes or similar and you are suddenly averaging 25-30mph throughout the day.
Anyway, let us rewind to where we left things on Saturday morning.
Woke up in Switzerland at the crap hole of a hotel in the middle of a skiing resort with hardly a soul in sight. Hotel was cheap and it showed. Having had the the dinner a night before, my worst yet and indeed tasteless pizza, a bunch of green stuff with grated carrot on top
(fucking carrot in a salad? dafuq is that all about?
)and topped off with overly strong salad cream (contents of which was 90% vinegar

), and a pint

of Swiss beer.
A said hotel has a restaurant, but it isn't fully operational outside of winter season or so it seem. As only meal options I had been offered, were pasta with salad or pizza with salad and a basked of cut up baguette, which had now turned into a giant croutons. All of which cost an astonishing 31CHF (approximately £30

)
While forcing myself to eat tasteless or in some cases an assault on ones tastebuds meal, I couldn't help but to notice that the guy running this appalling gaff is setting up a breakfast buffet at 8:45pm the night before. Leaving a bowl of cornflakes totally uncovered amongst other things

food standards gone out the fucking window in this tip of a place. He said to me you can fry your own eggs in the morning

, while showing me a semi squashed plastic bottle filled with oil and a scratched to fuck aluminium frying pan, that once upon a time was covered in teflon coating. I sat there thinking isn't it your job to do that for me, as I am the paying customer and breakfast is included in the price?
Came down for breakfast, naturally everything was just like I've seen it the night before, fuckall has changed other that a plate of cheese and another plate of cured meat has miraculously appeared. God only knows when it has happened. as there was not a soul in sight to greet me. I certainly was concerned.
There was a chopping board and a knife to cut up your own bread, unfortunately there was no bread in sight either

.
I attempted to fry my own eggs, as was "suggested" to me the night before by first trying to find where the fuck to plug the electric hob into, and not a soul in sight was to assist me with my search. Eventually I found an extension lead. Plugged the thing in and juts moments later, as the heat started to build up, the extension lead wasn't rated high enough for the ancient hob and consequently it blew a fuse

. Fuck this I tough and I took to some bagged up sliced bread to toast and what I deemed be safe to eat, having previously shuffled an entire stack of plates, in hope to find just the one that did not have breakfast still stuck to it from the day before.There was no coffee or tea to be seen, so I opted for a glass of orange juice from a carton and a glass of sparkling water. Eventually the fat old fart that appeared to be a "chef?" (he looked like a fucking giant pear turned upside down) graced me and the other couple with his presents. He shouted across from the bar if anybody wanted a coffee. "Yes!" all three of us replied.

……………………………...
Having chomped on my stale pan au chocolate, amongst other bits of "safe" food, I swiftly bugger off to my room to pack up. Moments later I was downstairs to check out and yet again not a fucker in sight, poked my head in the restaurant, nobody. Fuck it, I left the key on the reception desk, strapped US30 to the bike, lid on, gloves on, "race on" let’s go.
A few bends later on my way down to the valley, I was greeted with what seemed to be a "shite" weather for the day and a view I just had to stop for and take a snap.
………………………………..
Having now descended 1600m down in the valley bellow, after I followed (with a shock in my eyes) a suicidal cyclist (with biggest pair of plums I've known to see

) doing in excess of 65 kph all the way downhill while still assisting his speed with carrying on peddling, he barely slowed down round tight hairpins

. He seemed a local fruit plantation worker, as he turned in to the the plantation at the bottom of the hill, not you average grandpa on a road racing bike clad in lycra whilst showing of his fine muscular legs he's built up over the years ascending the enormous distances up to the top of some famous Col's. Having witnessed that, a monotonous journey on route 9 heading east has began

. Full of commuters and motor homes, farm equipment (Wine Grape Harvesting),with Radio 2 in my ears, I was fast falling behind schedule . It was a horrible experience with 50mph speed limit through out the country, a lack of overtaking places and endless towns/villages just a few kilometres apart. I felt like I was gone old, died, then was born again and now back where I was the life before. Where are those James Bond optional extras on the list to speck the bike with?
Having left route 9 , I Eventually pulled up at the Bistro Cafe carpark (the Giant Rabbit Place), having just come round the bend and seeing a pedestrian suspension bridge crossing the river Rotten (yes that is correct spelling) in a village called Bellwald on Route 19.
I had a quick coffee and a "Shite Veggie" burger. It wasn't the best one I had, but it kept the hungry worm happy for a while. I then took my GoPro and a wondered over to the said bridge for a quick up-close look and pic or two, well try doubling that then multiplying on your fingers and toes and you will soon realise you've got none left to carry on counting on

. Yet again "Fuck, FUCK!!!!! Fuckiedie fuck………"
An Hour Later, or what seemed like 15 minutes. I was back on the road heading for the world famous furking Furka Pass

. I knew there was some fun ahead of me to be had so proceeded with following endless train of German and Dutch Tourist in their luxury convertible motors and motorhomes. Stopping occasionally at the rail crossings to let the Glacier Express through. The train was (or what seemed like) full of Chinese tourists pointing their phones out the windows and having selfie stick "jousting" sessions in the isles. It was an interesting sight to observe, as the train kept crawling round the bends in front of line of traffic.
Eventually the road has opened up and I was within a touching distance of a famous trio of mountain passes. The Nuffenen, Grimsel (both had been done last year) and a Furka. Ahead of me to my left I can just make out a glacier in between other mountain peeks and to my right a wast green field, flat as a pancake and a gravel track running through it for a good mile. The sun was shining and I though I am going down there for that perfect shot. Off I went, stopping for a photo or two, I then looked up ahead and realised that the said gravel track was going to take me back out to the main drag. I have set up a go pro on the side of the top box, set ride and damping modes into off road and set of taking the Mighty 1290 for a spin on a surface it was meant to be ridden on. Just a few moments later, I have arrived at the end of the track and a tight rope across it, "I ain't turning back to waste even more time" I though and proceeded to taking rope down. Phew, I was through, having replaced the rope as it was found behind me. Yet again, the good old "Fuck, FUCK!!!!! Fuckiedie fuck………"
Before I knew it I was at the town of Gletsch. Head left and you will start climb up north to the top of Grimsell Pass (been there, done it….. it is a wrong direction on this occasion anyway) or stay on the road and you head east to the top of Furka pass.
As it was around Lunch time and every Cafe/Restaurant along the way was full of cyclist, bikers and other tourists alike. So It was my chance to enjoy a what normally a very busy road and a mountain pass with just a few cars or cyclist I was able to pick off one by one with ease. Half way up at the famous hair pin at Belvedere, I've pulled in to the car park for a snap or two (putting me further back in my scheduled arrival time). I attempted to do a selfie, which I just couldn't get right. So I see a pair of old hippies (in full Harley kind of Leather if you like) wondering about and smoking some fancy pipes. I asked them in my now very forgotten and rusty German (assuming they spoke it too) if they would mind taking a picture of me with the bike and a Furka/Grimsell passes in the background. One spoke no german only Italian and French and when I handed over to him my iPhone, he rolled his eyes, as he just couldn't put the thing to use. it was a complete novelty for him to hold on to a three year old iPhone that you could take pictures with and there were no buttons to press?! His mate had to step in (who spoke German, French and a little English) and there is me trying to explain what to do with the thing to the pair

. Eventually after a what seem like an age we managed to get a picture or two. Yet again "Fuck, FUCK!!!!! Fuckiedie fuck………"
………………………………..
I proceeded to my climb towards the top of the pass where I stopped a couple more times for a few more pics.
……………………………….
Now seriously in danger of arriving after 7:30pm to my digs for the night in Merano, Italy ("Fuck, FUCK!!!!! Fuckiedie fuck………"), I swiftly left Furka behind me having had only a few moments to enjoy it in the shite weather that Arsey and I had so far.
I knew I still had some ground to cover, with a stop for a leak and a drink, maybe something to eat. I proceeded on to the next pass in line on my route, It was be an Oberalppass Via Realp and Andermat.
But then a quick stop for a leak, resulted in more of this.
By now I have arrived at Oberalppass, roads were much more quieter and as a result I though it was a bit of a Peach.
……………………………
I stopped for a quick bite on a Peach I have taken with me from the hotel and a 1 of 5 nut & yogurt cereal bars my wife kindly showed in my top box on the morning of departure. I then wondered over to the small trailer on the edge of the carpark and chatted to the lady selling local goat cheese, some "Tasty" pies I couldn't have, some local mustards and various organic cordials made from herbs and berries sourced from a local mountain sides. Having discovered that the cheese she was offering me to taste wasn't "tasteless" Veggie shite, I ended up buying jar of Black & Red Currant Mustard for my wife instead. She loves a good mustard, so I thought it be up her street. No pun intended.
………………………………
Next I was heading for the Town of Flims Waldhous, I was meant to stop here for a lunch but since I now was nearly 3 hours behind schedule, I decided to refuel and press on towards Chur, taking a turn towards town of Thusis and onto Davos. Upon Leaving Thusis I crossed over Motorway 13 and entered a tunnel, as the sun was now behind me I was unable to read a billboard indicating traffic in the tunnel and by then it was too late to turn around. I spent next 20 minuted inside the tube where slow crawling vehicles were churning out some funky fumes, by the end I had a headache and my throat was dry as…. After emerging from the chamber of death, I took risk of crossing solid white line past what I though a police car, but turned out to be Swiss Border patrol vehicle. The line of traffic was. well how long is the string……?
I soon was joined by other bikers doing same thing, so in a group I felt like I was less offending to the law. Riding through Davos, a hungry worm was starting to make noises, unfortunately I just wasn't able to see anything from the side of the road as I was riding and I wasn't going to stop now to go wondering the streets in search of food. I made a swift decision to head towards Umbrail Pass, without realising that I had yet to takle a Fluela Pass just a few kilometre up the road.
I left Davos behind me and sun now behind a mountain on my right. As I was starting to make my initial climb towards Fluela, I got frightened by this sudden tremendous noise fast approaching behind me, I looked in the mirrors and couldn't see anything, as I was doing so, an almighty downwash surrounded me for a split second. An emergency helicopter flew right over me and what seemed like inches above my head. It carried straight on and in very short distance it made a steep climb and done a sort of loop the loop before descending into the valley below whilst hovering sideways.
I though, "ohhhh! what happened?" I rushed to the top, where in the car park, I can see a number of people either looking down into the valley through binoculars, there DSLR's or some attempting to zoom in on the action bellow on their phones. Naturally being a curious kind of person, I pulled in and took my old Panasonic superzoom camera out the tank bag. I can see a commotion going on down bellow, while helicopter now moved and landed on the side of the farm a few hundred meters away.
Back to the commotion. It appears that a cow and a calf have got them self in a dangerous terrain and as a result the cow has suffered some form of an injury to her right front leg. She couldn't stand on it. The terrain was kind of boggy, rocky and next to the stream. Without any faffing, the vet (who now was on site and I assume called out the helicopter), the cattle farmers and a helicopter crew member proceeded to strapping a harness around the cows main body some 4-5 minutes later, the helicopter came in with great precision directly over the cow, a winch rope has now been deployed and helicopter hovering some 40-50 m above, the crew have attached the winch to the harness. I sure have now seen it all now, including a "Flying Cow". Moments later what I can only assume, the cow was landed directly into the awaiting trailer behind a stone barn. I could't see the "trailer" nor what happened to the cow, but I could see a 4x4 just poking it nose from behind the barn. Shortly the helicopter was back to drop the winch line, and to pick up a farmer, his calf and a crew member, who have been flown to the barn. All of this has taken just 12 minutes. That is exactly how long I fell behind on my scheduled arrival to the digs for the nigh. "Fuck, FUCK!!!!! Fuckiedie fuck………"
I took a video and an odd picture sadly no actual picture of a flying cow, but it is on video, you’ll have to take my word for it.
On I go, Without realising, I rode straight over the Fluela Pass without stopping and descending into the valley bellow on the other side.
I turn right at the junction, and head some 6 km to the next turn in the town of Zernes. I stop and take this Picture for our own Bear. I though he might appreciate the small gesture.
………………………………………..
As I leave Zernes, the road is quiet and not a soul in sight, It is short approaching 6;30pm local time and I start to climb towards a mountain in the distance that is lit up with that magical "golden hour" light. I can't resist but to stop yet again to take a quick few snaps.
………………………………………..
Moments later, bike brought back to life and on I go again.less than 10 minutes later I arrive at the top of a Pass dal Fuorn. It is fucking cold now, as temperature dropped to mere 8ºc and I am at 2146m above sea level.
I stop here, take a few snaps, have another cereal bar and a drink of that clear stuff, the hungry worm is now trying to take on contortion as a bit of an exercise. I resort to digging out my TOG24 duck down jacket, that I brought with me as a casual jacket as well as ideal thermal liner form my Rukka Jacket. I take a quick leak, again (cold tend to make me pee more than ever, even though I drank less today than a day before) Great, I feel better now. Heated seat and grips on, down the pass I go.
The terrain and colour of the rock is starting to change now.
……………………………………………
My arrival time seem to have crept back a little, I must've gained time somewhere.
I shortly arrive at the village of Santa Maria Val Muster and take a sharp right tun through a narrow passage, which soon taking me to the top of umbral pass. It is a steep and narrow pass, I was preying nothing was going to jump out from the behind one of the bends or hairpins. I passed a hotel overlooking a village and valley bellow. Thinking this be great to stay at tonight, but I already have booked and paid for accommodation in Merano. Off I go with the said hotel now in a very distant past. Soon in the dusk I arrive at the top of Umbral Pass, I dismount and take a quick picture in front of the flags at the border.
………………………………………………..
It is a great road, especially when empty. On the way up, I was met heading down a lone cyclist and a farmer in his beat up Peugeot van. It was a great run up. It feels even colder up here despite my onboard thermometer suggesting it is still 8ºc. I am thinking now to myself, "I'd love to ride Stelvio Pass", but it is to darn late and I still have 80km to ride to Merano and my sat nav suggesting it'll take 1hour and 40 minutes to get there. Meaning I'll be at the hotel after 9pm. "I can make that before 9pm" I mumbled to myself.
Back on the bike, I power it up and cancel out all of the waypoints on a satnav, right up to my final destination. I pressed on south east, at the fork, I take a road left as instructed on the screen. I climb further up without any though what is up there other than thinking it must be the summit of the Umbral pass.
I yet again stop at the side of the road to have a picture of a very friendly heard of cows with the little ones beside them.
……………….
Ok up I go again. A the top I arrive at what seem to be a building site and a few pissed up characters wondering about watching the sun go down, I assume. I park up the bike as the view to the east is simply magical and not to shoot it be a crime. Fuck it if I am late and there is no dinner left at the hotel so be it. I take my chances and shoot a few pics. The light is amazing and pictures will never tell the story fully but sure to remind me what it was like a few years later.
It is now 7;30pm the sun is fast going down and my onboard thermometer showing 5ºc. It is cold, but my warm powerparts options keeping the chill at bay. I take a look over the edge at the valley bellow, it is darn dark, poke your eyes dark! "This'll be interesting" I though. I get back on the bike, Let a Polish registered small Truck come up the road and start heading down. Nearer the bottom in the dark woodland part of the road I get greeted by a lone Harley rider and a T4 Transporter camper van, both heading up the pass. My fog lights are on and so is high beam. That LED headlamp is fantastic and cornering light go to stage 3 at every hairpin, making me feel like the bike literally looking around each and every corner before I do. It is great. After god nows how many tight and bumpy hairpins, I soon descend into a village and realise I am in Italy, as I greeted by a speed camera with a flashing amber beacon on top. "I am on a home straight" I thought. Looked at the sat nav, I have gained 4 minuted by coming down the pass. "Excellent" I can definitely make it to the Hotel before 9Pm and satnav suggesting, I'll be there at 09;07pm.
I soon enter a small town called Pratto Allo Stelvio. It is pitch black and only lighting I have is from the street lights, few locals bimbling about in their beat up Fiat Panda’s and Piaggio Ape's and of cause the front end of my bike. I am thinking to myself. "The town name suggests Stelvio must not far from here? I kept thinking “If only I took the motorway this morning, I would've avoided allot of the traffic and probably had the time to do the planned route in full." Still I refuse to pay tolls so no motorways in Switzerland for me unless these are classed as dual carriageways. "Well there is always another year" I though to myself.
As I exit the town, I get overtaken by a black BMW that was doing well over a 100 km/ph before the official speed limit change. I follow him and we both take right at the roundabout, I accelerate and follow at his speed, until he catches up with traffic ahead. In and amongst the traffic I see three bikes on French plates, I overtake initial set off cars and trucks and blend in behind the bikes. they acknowledge me with a horizontal "V" and one with sticking his leg out. I give a quick flash of high beam, to let them know I have noted their acknowledgement. Soon another opportunity arises to overtake remaining line of trucks, and cars. I see no intension of doing so from my French friends and accelerate away leaving them behind.
I soon again catch up with a car and in front of it is a local farmer in his tractor pulling a trailer full of grapes. You can smell the sweetness of the grape in the air. It was intoxicating as the temperature now come back up to 19ºc. I was starting to get quite warm. But wasn’t going to stop to take my duck down jacket off. So the seat and grips got switched into hibernation mode for now. I am gaining time minute by minute.
Eventually, all three of us get overtaken a Polish registered Fiat Punto. This guy took a huge risk overtaking on a blind corner to the right

. I have witnessed similar event some 10 years ago in Wales that ended up not good. My panicked voice call to the emergency operator must still be out there in the archives. I just thought to myself, "Polish drivers remind me of Russian drivers, taking far too many unnecessary risks".
Lucky this time it all ended up without a tragedy. Once the road opened up and I could see no oncoming traffic, the driver in front of me indicated that I can pass him, so I did and stuck my foot out to thank him.
I followed the said Fiat for the next 35-40 minutes until it turned off. The road approaching Merano, was getting busier and busier. I ended up missing a turning by concentrating on a traffic ahead. Lucky the next turning just up the road took me back on a correct path, while gaining 2 minutes in time. "Result!" I thought.
Before long I leave the SS38 and take my exit. A few Moments later I found myself traveling in what appears to be a tight network of residential streets. "There is no way A hotel is around here" I thought. Still I had faith in the NAV and proceeded with following its instructions. I make a turn right and follow a street. It is deserted with nobody around. Then Lit up like a North Pole Star is my hotel. I arrive and pull up in at the front. I get greeted by a gentleman who does recognise me from my enquiry on Booking.com and proceeded guiding me to a prepared motorcycle parking space under the carport. I park up. we shake hands and he says that he will see me inside in a few moments. I take a note of the time, it is 08:56pm. I've made it. Result!
I take the necessary stuff and go to check my self in. I am greeted by a lady at the reception, she is full of life and and I believe she's a keen cyclist or a runner as there are allot of racing numbers tastefully placed around the place with one female name on them all. She seem of a sporty type. It is her and a gentleman who greeter me earlier that run the place as a husband and wife. We have a chat about where I’ve been, where I’ve come from and so on. I apologise for being nearly 3 hours late, to which she replied, the reception is open for another hour so it isn't a problem. I asked her about the dinner, she said there is no dinner available at the hotel as such, only evening drinks, but just a 5 minute walk up the road would take me to a neighbouring guest house that will serve a pizza until 10:00pm. The restaurant service however does stop at 09:00pm, she said. She hands me the keys and leads me up to my room ,on the way up she lets me know that there is a swimming pool in the basement which is open every morning from 07:00am and access is included in my room rate. As she took me to my room, I thank her for the warm welcome. The room was nice and modern with a double bed and usual bathroom/toilet, desk, wardrobe arrangement and a private balcony that has a bistro set, where if staying longer than one night probably handy to chill out in the morning sun with a fine cup of coffee.
I took a quick shower, changed my clothes, and headed out to the said restaurant. It really was less than 5 minute walk for me the 3L

, probably 6 minutes for our own home grown tossers of this parish

.
This place is popular with locals

, as there was a queue of 4 people waiting to collect their takeaway pizzas. I get seated outside under a giant up-lit horse chestnut, with loads of people still enjoying great time having some food a lough and a drink. The place had a street party feeling you get and see in the Med themed movies. It was great! Instantly reminded me why my wife and I love coming to Italy.
I ordered a large beer and proceeded to catch up with Arsey in private messaging. Naturally, as one does, I do get "mildly insulted" with the choice of pizza I ordered. Which in no time at all has arrived. served with some plain olive or chilli oil on the side. It was HUGE! Must've been 16"-18". It was also the best pizza I have ever had in Italy. The crust, it was crusty but melted in your mouth. Equally the dough wasn't your usual pizza express bounce of the walls rubber, it was just lovely. I ate half the pizza and I was feeling stuffed. I proceeded to having a chat with my wife over the phone and eventually finished of the monster of the pizza. it was simply to good to leave unfinished. That beer I had, must've been quite strong, as I felt pissed up on one pint

, but it was well deserved.
The menu for the pizza had a good choice of “Veggie Shite”
The pictures of the Hotel and the Guest House/Restaurant-Pizzeria I took next morning.
I took a slow stroll back to the hotel, at which point I stopped and looked into the distance of shimmering lights while listening to crickets make that summery noise and just stopping for a moment to relax and do nothing in particular. A tough day indeed, but what a hoot!
Back at the hotel, I sent a couple of pictures to my wife, one of the cow and one of the snow capped mountain which I thought was the top of “Umbrail Pass”. Flicking trough the rest of pictures, I noticed a headline above the pic -Umbrail & Stelvio- after all the dark valley bellow was the Stelvio pass which I rode without even realising.



Even in the near darkness, the place was Magical and having it nearly all of it to myself was an added bonus too.
TBC…...
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