Alternator mount/cover and oil sight glass removal/replacement pre-job check!

[Bikermike1411]

Hi all,

Next up on the recommission of my 1150 is the engine paint. It’s…suffered….in 15 years since it was last used, and looks like it wasn’t in good nick when it went away either.

Anyhoo….

I’ve tried to remove the front swing arm (telever?). Undoing one side (right) just spins the left, and I don’t have anyone to hold the left side. My 13 year old lad is willing, but I value not rounding a bolt head when his side invariably slips off, or worse crushing his fingers against the cylinder block even more than his help. I think I can access all
The bolts for the cover by simply dropping the arm from the front shock and loosening the oil return pipe down the side of the engine. There’s only two smaller bolts behind the pipe, plus (from memory) two slightly larger ones behind the swing arm, I’ve already cracked 10 or so of the bolts I can access - all came easily enough, although they’re being replaced on the rebuild as they’re ’orrid.

Obviously I’ll need to release the alternator, but I was going to change the belt anyway so that’s no problem.

Assuming this all goes to plan, here’s the questions…

1. Does the radial shaft seal absolutely need replacing - and if so, is it a sweary job or straight forward? Do I need to get/borrow a specific diameter drift/tool to drive the new one home or can I use a large diameter deep socket?

2. While it’s all down I need to spray the crankcases under the cylinders. The area around the oil sight glass is a bit of a mess as below




Is replacing this a case of levering/removing the old one out and pushing the new one in with a new spring clip? I planned on cleaning the cruddy paint off with a brass brush, then removing the sight glass before spraying up the crankcase and replacing it. My only concern with this is what impact having paint on the mating surface might have on the resultant seal. Obviously I’d try and minimise this though.

Any pointers gratefully received!

Cheers
Mike

 

[Bikermike1411]

Btw, I’ve read the oil sight glass thread here:

Thread 'Has anyone replaced the oil sight glass.'

Jun 30, 2025

Mine is so cloudy I'm unable to see the oil level.
The vids I've seen say to smash it and remove using a tool to lever it out.
I don't want to end up with a bike stuck in my garage with a stuck smashed level inducator if I can't get it out so any advice will be welcome.
Basically how easily it comes out.
Removing a circlip if there is one?
I'm sure it's easy to drift the new one in.

• TLSgazza
• Replies: 11
• Forum: 1200 GS Hexhead

And watched the linked video even before reading that - just wanted to check it is that simple (ish)

The crank seal is my biggest concern

 

[Paul Young]

I’d do the paint work with the old sight glass in place, since it won’t matter how much is gets damaged/painted. Then replace it afterwards - small wood screw in the side and lever it out with a claw hammer, then tap the new one into place.

For the telelever spindle, have you taken a look at the part diagram? The ends of the spindle are covered by caps - items 7&8 on HERE

 

[DrFarkoff]

1150s are a push fit No clip


1200 Hex heads onwards

 

[theoneandonly]

The crank seal is my biggest concern

ride it , see if it leaks , then worry about it.

 

[Bikermike1411]

I’d do the paint work with the old sight glass in place, since it won’t matter how much is gets damaged/painted. Then replace it afterwards - small wood screw in the side and lever it out with a claw hammer, then tap the new one into place.

For the telelever spindle, have you taken a look at the part diagram? The ends of the spindle are covered by caps - items 7&8 on HERE

I’d thought the same Paul! Just didn’t want to ‘tear’ the edge of my lovely new paint getting the old one out.

I’m also uncertain as to where I drill/screw it. I’m assuming it’s straight through the glass iniine with one of the holes on the backing plate, rather than the rubber as I don’t want to damage where it seats.

Telelever….yep, I’ve removed both caps (plastic on the right, screw in on the left) and I’m working on the bolt heads.

It’s like a front wheel spindle in effect - just one where I can’t hold both sides myself and it’s bloody tight! I’m sure there’s a knack/trick people use. In theory if I could lock the ratchet handle on the left side somehow against the cylinder to prevent it moving, one good crack on the right should undo it. That’s fraught with problems though! I’ll see if I can rope my neighbor into helping with the promise of a brew and a biscuit this weekend.

 

[Bikermike1411]

ride it , see if it leaks , then worry about it.

That sounds easier! Is it the ‘normal’ way of doing it?

I was under the impression it came out completely when the front cover was removed and had to be put back in/replaced as a separate step?

 

[Steptoe]

I’d thought the same Paul! Just didn’t want to ‘tear’ the edge of my lovely new paint getting the old one out.

I’m also uncertain as to where I drill/screw it. I’m assuming it’s straight through the glass iniine with one of the holes on the backing plate, rather than the rubber as I don’t want to damage where it seats.


It’s like a front wheel spindle in effect - just one where I can’t hold both sides myself and it’s bloody tight! I’m sure there’s a knack/trick people use. In theory if I could lock the ratchet handle on the left side somehow against the cylinder to prevent it moving, one good crack on the right should undo it. That’s fraught with problems though! I’ll see if I can rope my neighbor into helping with the promise of a brew and a biscuit this weekend.

I use a seal puller to remove sight glasses,
They can be plastic or glass depending on how old it is - smash it, insert puller and lever out.
I’ve always removed telelever bolts over the years as you’ve described - long handled socket bar in the left bolt with it wedged against the cylinder and undone the righthand bolt .

 

[Wrigsby1]

Hi all,

Next up on the recommission of my 1150 is the engine paint. It’s…suffered….in 15 years since it was last used, and looks like it wasn’t in good nick when it went away either.

Anyhoo….

I’ve tried to remove the front swing arm (telever?). Undoing one side (right) just spins the left, and I don’t have anyone to hold the left side. My 13 year old lad is willing, but I value not rounding a bolt head when his side invariably slips off, or worse crushing his fingers against the cylinder block even more than his help. I think I can access all
The bolts for the cover by simply dropping the arm from the front shock and loosening the oil return pipe down the side of the engine. There’s only two smaller bolts behind the pipe, plus (from memory) two slightly larger ones behind the swing arm, I’ve already cracked 10 or so of the bolts I can access - all came easily enough, although they’re being replaced on the rebuild as they’re ’orrid.

Obviously I’ll need to release the alternator, but I was going to change the belt anyway so that’s no problem.

Assuming this all goes to plan, here’s the questions…

1. Does the radial shaft seal absolutely need replacing - and if so, is it a sweary job or straight forward? Do I need to get/borrow a specific diameter drift/tool to drive the new one home or can I use a large diameter deep socket?

2. While it’s all down I need to spray the crankcases under the cylinders. The area around the oil sight glass is a bit of a mess as below


View attachment 429766

Is replacing this a case of levering/removing the old one out and pushing the new one in with a new spring clip? I planned on cleaning the cruddy paint off with a brass brush, then removing the sight glass before spraying up the crankcase and replacing it. My only concern with this is what impact having paint on the mating surface might have on the resultant seal. Obviously I’d try and minimise this though.

Any pointers gratefully received!

Cheers
Mike

Id be leaving the old one, masking off, clean paint and respray, remove masking and ride off .. looks fine and I've only replaced one when I've had to...

 

[Bikermike1411]

I use a seal puller to remove sight glasses,
They can be plastic or glass depending on how old it is - smash it, insert puller and lever out.
I’ve always removed telelever bolts over the years as you’ve described - long handled socket bar in the left bolt with it wedged against the cylinder and undone the righthand bolt .

Thanks Steptoe, I’m glad you’ve confirmed this! I’ll take another look in the next few days!

 

[Bikermike1411]

Update…couldn’t leave it be. Only been back of my holiday a couple of hours…..

Managed to crack it with the help of the lad. He sort of watched the left side and held it in place while I shocked the right. No fingers were damaged in the process!



The more I dig into this bike the more I can see it becoming a bigger restoration than I originally planned. The paint under both barrels and the bottom of the engine is horrid. Nothing I can’t sort with a bit of time though!



I’ll drop the exhaust off soon so I can see the engine fully to assess how far back the paint issue goes. The header nuts came off easily enough so that’s a bonus.

Thanks everyone!