Has anyone successfully fitted these? The instructions are hard to follow. Do the fork stanchions have to be cut through on the lathe? Or does the reduction part just separate under force? I've disassembled an old set of forks, and the stanchions have some small springs and clips inside them, so the cartridges can't slide all the way down. That must be the bit that needs removing.
Andreani Misano fork cartridges
- Thread starter robertotoole
- Start date
Just done it. Forget the instructions, they are nonsense. No lathe needed. It shows the stanchion internals being removed, but that's not how to do it. You undo the circlip at the bottom, pull out the bits you can, and then use a long stick such as a broom handle to knock out the spring and other bits from the inside. The rest of the installation is easy. I'll post a full sequence of photos soon.
Have they improved the bike’s handling significantly?Just done it. Forget the instructions, they are nonsense. No lathe needed. It shows the stanchion internals being removed, but that's not how to do it. You undo the circlip at the bottom, pull out the bits you can, and then use a long stick such as a broom handle to knock out the spring and other bits from the inside. The rest of the installation is easy. I'll post a full sequence of photos soon.
I'll find out tomorrow. I haven't ridden it yet. However, it's not a fair comparison, as my forks were in quite a bad state. When I took them apart I found the oil was bad, and full of dirt.
Short test ride today, on a very bumpy and twisty road. The biggest improvement is to the steering, which is now much quicker and predictable. Bumps were handled nicely, and I even let go of the bars with no wobble. I've just got it set to the base settings. I think I might reduce compression damping a bit. I ride the same road on my 2021 Africa Twin, which is perfect. My GS is closer to that quality now. The big difference is in how the forks flex back and forth. That has been reduced, but it's still there. It will never match the rigidity of the big fat AT forks. But it is much better.
With the forks off the bike, I noticed that the springs were pushing the legs to full extension. They weren't quite reaching that point before.
Some of that improvement might be due to the old forks needing a refurb anyway. But it does feel much better than I can remember it having been in the past, and I've owned it for 23 years and 100,000 miles.
If you are doing a suspension refurb anyway, I recommend this upgrade. It is fairly easy. The hardest parts were:
1. Trying to understand the instructions, then deciding to ignore them - I got a spare fork leg and experimented on that first, so I could work it out.
2. Removing the clip on top of the seals. The seals had worn down, and the clip had corroded into the metal of the leg. It's not a circlip, which seems crazy. I had to buy some hook and pick tools to get them out. The inside of the leg was in a bit of a mess, and I had to dremmel some burring, and fill a small hole. But they are now fine.
This was all done using cheap tools from Amazon.
Hook and pick set.
Fork spring compressor.
Oil level gauge (110mm is the level required)
Circlip pliers
The new seals were driven in by placing the old seals on top of them, followed by a 38mm socket, and knocking that in. They went in straight and complete first time.
The original fork leg bottom bolt is too long for the cartridges, so I used these shorter bolts.
Also note that the metal gasket that goes below the seals is no longer available from BMW or any of the usual suppliers. I had to reuse the ones that were in there, even though they were a bit mishapen. I did my best to get them back into shape.
I'll post some more details when I get a chance.
With the forks off the bike, I noticed that the springs were pushing the legs to full extension. They weren't quite reaching that point before.
Some of that improvement might be due to the old forks needing a refurb anyway. But it does feel much better than I can remember it having been in the past, and I've owned it for 23 years and 100,000 miles.
If you are doing a suspension refurb anyway, I recommend this upgrade. It is fairly easy. The hardest parts were:
1. Trying to understand the instructions, then deciding to ignore them - I got a spare fork leg and experimented on that first, so I could work it out.
2. Removing the clip on top of the seals. The seals had worn down, and the clip had corroded into the metal of the leg. It's not a circlip, which seems crazy. I had to buy some hook and pick tools to get them out. The inside of the leg was in a bit of a mess, and I had to dremmel some burring, and fill a small hole. But they are now fine.
This was all done using cheap tools from Amazon.
Hook and pick set.
Fork spring compressor.
Oil level gauge (110mm is the level required)
Circlip pliers
The new seals were driven in by placing the old seals on top of them, followed by a 38mm socket, and knocking that in. They went in straight and complete first time.
The original fork leg bottom bolt is too long for the cartridges, so I used these shorter bolts.
Also note that the metal gasket that goes below the seals is no longer available from BMW or any of the usual suppliers. I had to reuse the ones that were in there, even though they were a bit mishapen. I did my best to get them back into shape.
I'll post some more details when I get a chance.
Thanks
I tackled a series of 10 big speed bumps this morning (yep, that's what UK roads are becoming). It handled them well.
Brook Suspension at Bradford are Andreani dealers and know their stuff
I dealt with Brooks recently when I ordered a nitron shock and misano carts for an RnineT. Marc at Brooks was brilliant to deal with and the Misano's have been a great upgrade for the money. As noted above, the instructions are generic and shite.
If you have one, I use a cycle work stand for holding the fork legs vertically while working on them. I dont have a specific oil level tool, I just use the depth gauge on my verniers and syringe with a bit of hose to adjust the level.
If you have one, I use a cycle work stand for holding the fork legs vertically while working on them. I dont have a specific oil level tool, I just use the depth gauge on my verniers and syringe with a bit of hose to adjust the level.
I think Brooks will fit them too. Motorworks sell them. There’s a place in Bristol that fits them. I imported mine from Italy, as no uk shops had the correct model at the time, about a year ago.
I left my forks attached to each other with the lower bridge, which made it much easier.
I left my forks attached to each other with the lower bridge, which made it much easier.
I used my Africa Twin on the same route today, and the GS with cartridges felt similar to the AT, so can confirm it is worth doing.
Cartridge insets make a huge difference and improvement
Just fitted Ohlins ones to one of my bikes
Just fitted Ohlins ones to one of my bikes
I think there was a cartridge kit available from HPN when the GS paralever airheads were new. They ran out about 15 years ago. Sports Evolution and Andreani cartridges now available are similar. SE looks higher quality and with better support, as they are BMW specialists.
I can’t comment on the benefit of cartridges but I made some changes to my forks a while back which made a huge difference to the fork action. If I remember correctly I fitted Wirth springs and changed the oil using a different grade and level in each leg.
Cartridges should achieve similar results but with easy adjustability to fine tune and adapt to different conditions.
Sold as a BMW optional extra, also available from HPN and, I believe, others. Full kit came with cartridges plus bar risers and different indicator stalks so you could access the adjusters. And longer preload spacers for use with PD bikes.
I've got some spare fork parts if anyone wants them. Sliders, a stanchion, progressive springs etc. Free if you can pick up. Also some electrics, including alternator parts. In Kenilworth, Warwickshire UK.
