another great idea

I know.. you must feel like i feel when a customer has been doing some home improvement and askes me to come in at the end to put it right.. and here I am doing something that I don't understand that really I should have left to a pro..

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Long shot, but..........

Have you checked the condition of the hall sensor rotor. It has a slotted key way on it which aligns with the corresponding Key on the crankshaft.

But you never know if someone in the past has wrecked it so that it no long aligns correctly.

:nenau
 
Sorry for tardy reply.. In a "eureka" momment I took the bottom pulley off a few nights ago .. I have never been so disappointed see something I have done correctly .. it's a bit of a fiddle to keep it centralised and fit the bottom pulley . But it was in the right place.
Cheers

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I'm just wondering about the quick connectors on the fuel lines. Is it possible they're restricting the fuel flow somehow? It's one of the changes you made to the bike. There might be enough coming through for a few squirts of the injectors, but not enough to run the bike. It might explain why your plugs are dry.
 
It's a good point. I had intended doing a fuel pressure check last night. But didn't find the time.. I also intend doing a flow test. . I am convinced it's something basic.. and appreciate all the suggestions

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Jesus christ, i've never seen such a scatter gun approach to diagnostics.
 
Jesus christ, i've never seen such a scatter gun approach to diagnostics.
I agree with you.. as i did yesterday, sorry if you have misunderstood my continued requests for help as instructions on"how too"
Please accept my apologies

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Post 187, you bodge repaired a connection block that had been crimped.
before that, it ran, rough, but it ran.
Revisit that and buy a new connector….
 
Jesus christ, i've never seen such a scatter gun approach to diagnostics.

yeah, I would tend to agree, but what do you suggest would be the order of events to start solving this situation from where he his now?
 
True, sorry about that. I think the OP needs professional help at this point though.
 
Once had a similiar problem where one of my bikes wouldn't start (royal enfield). But went through the basics of checking for compression, tdc/timing. Made sure I was getting a spark. Def had fuel so was convinced it was carb. Spent the night stripping the carb down, making sure it was set ok and still nothing. A random conversation with someone and he said sometimes you get a spark but if it's breaking down under load it won't be enough.
Got home, put a new plug in and she started 1st kick!! So in my case, on that bike, it was a plug breaking down.

Guess moral is, if you really have confirmed all the basics then it could be leads/plug breaking down. There is kit out there that can check for spark under load but no idea how much it costs. Think its easier to swap parts out if you are able / someone around willing to donor?

Pity about some of the negative comments on here, but we all started from knowing nothing and we all learn from our and everyone else's experience. Hope you crack it yourself. You will have earned it i reckon ;)
 
Thanks Tom. You are the second person today to suggest a spark plug fault.. I have long regretted throwing my old ones out.
I expeted a bit of criticism, it goes had in hand with asking for help.
Generally people have been keen to assist. The few negative comments I received (usually without any positive input!!) is probably more offensive to those trying to help me and might make some people think twice before making a suggestion for fear of being ridiculed not ideal for a forum!.


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Would expect new plugs to be ok long as they correct type and gapped ok? So may be breaking down elsewhere ..
 
Thanks Tom. You are the second person today to suggest a spark plug fault.. I have long regretted throwing my old ones out.
I expeted a bit of criticism, it goes had in hand with asking for help.
Generally people have been keen to assist. The few negative comments I received (usually without any positive input!!) is probably more offensive to those trying to help me and might make some people think twice before making a suggestion for fear of being ridiculed not ideal for a forum!.


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As a self taught and very amateur mechanic who along the way has had his share of frustrations, I truly feel for you. Much respect for attempting this renovation and don't give up.
 
Check the TPS is operating within range. If the TPS doesnt work the bike doesnt run.

Aim for 380mv you can do this without the engine running.

You need some thin bits of wire to put in terminals 1 and 4 ( I think) then close the connector with the cables sticking out. you can then test the MV's.
 
I decided today that I would tack the bike back together and hide it under a dust sheet until winter comes.. summer is mostly over I am going away for most of September and I have a long "to do list"

I came home to find my new HES sensor had been delivered along with my fuel pressure test kit.. I quickly tacked on the HES, cranked over by hand no spark .. Swearing I pressed the starter button.... Fired 1st time and idles lovely

I don't think I need the pressure test kit! ..

When I peeled black the insulation on the old HES cable it didn't look good (I tried to photograph it) anyway it does seem that the cables had been shorting out and my spare was being triggered by the fuel pump HES.. Either that or .. magic.!?
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well looks like you may have found your issue really pleased for you what a nightmare you have had
 
Hopefully it will start next time I try .. you are right it's been a nightmare . .

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