Well, I'd bought the GS and had pottered round the UK for a year or two so decided it was time for our first bike trip abroad.
Looking at all the threads on the website I thought that the Picos and Northern Spain would be a good introduction - great scenery, longish trip and warm
!
Had a long run down to Plymouth without any problems and boarded the ferry. I must say I was impressed by the way the bike was strapped down quickly by the staff and by the boat in general - the food was great and prices were better than on the P&O NorthSea Ferries. We didn't bother with the 'fancy' restaurant on either voyage and found the grub from the normal cafe certainly good enough. Lovely comfortable cabins too - top marks for Brittany Ferries.
Next day we were ready for the off. Got a bit sweaty waiting for the doors to be opened. (one or two of you may recognise yourselves here).
After landing in Santander we set off for the Hotel Del Oso (we booked 3 night here in with the ferry booking - a good deal).
Its easy to see why this hotel is such a popular choice with members of this website (thanks for the recommendations) – it’s a lovely hotel, great rooms and fantastic food, especially the famous stew!
Fantastic view from the room…
It was here that we also met with Tricky (see his superb trip report ) Also really nice to meet Richard, Russ and their lovely ladies with whom we had a lovely evening meal. I think Kay maybe had a bit too much wine
Which one is the real ugly brute here ? …
TBH the only criticism of the Hotel Del Oso (and the other place we stayed) was the late eating times – 9pm, it’s a bit late for us. However, we were in Spain so in a way it helps us get more into the local custom of eating late, so no complaints at all really.
Next day we went upto the Fuente De for the cable car.
Going up…
View from the cable car…
We weren’t really prepared for a long walk, and just changed to jeans and trainers but once at the top we just had to sample the views.
(if you’re reading this Tricky, you must take the cable car next time…absolutely stunning walking).
The walk took us back down to a small village (Espinama) for drinks and then a short walk back to the cable car base to get the bike (plus my Zumo which I’d mistakenly left in my helmet with the cable car operator!
).
Evenings were filled with talk between GSers of what routes to try the next day and we took the long circular route of Potes to Riano (no pics of the lake, can’t compare to the excellent ones in Tricky’s thread), to Cangas De Onis and back to the Hotel.
The roads are generally OK, some potholes, gravel, cows and donkeys, but still OK….after all, we were on a GS…er right !
Fuel was OK at +/- 96p per litre.
I found it actually more relaxing riding over in Spain than here in the UK. Roads were well signposted, riding on the right felt OK from the second we left the ferry, it’s easier to wave to oncoming bikers
.
Typical picos road
Road upto Cain De Valdeon
Covadonga (…to be pronounced in an Australian accent
)
Richard, Russ and the ladies had also booked for 3 nights at the Hotel Del Oso so left after 3, but we decided to stay on at the hotel, we liked it so much. We had booked 3 nights at the Del Oso, left 2 nights unbooked so we could be flexible, then 2 nights at the Casa Zalama (see later). Plus there was still plenty to see and do in the area. We had decided we weren’t going to ride all day, every day – so we spent that morning drinking and reading at the hotel, then a short ride into Potes for more drinks and a browse round in the afternoon.
Next day we were out to a little village called Camarena to walk the Garganta Del Cares. Actually there were 3 or 4 walks from near there. Can’t remember which one we did, but it was stunning…
Path is cut into the side of the gorge…
The locals cause a bit of an obstruction, buy were friendly enough…
Then rode on (yet another) superb road (Camerena to Sotres via Tielves).
Next morning it was finally time to leave the Del Oso and ride to our other pre-booked accommodation – Casa Zalama (yet again booked following recommendations from other site members...cheers guys).
Last view from the Del Oso
.
The weather looked good but, as so quickly in this area, soon turned very wet. We had intended taking a different road across the Picos to the Casa Zalama, but this particular road was pretty bad, with large pot holes, gravel strewn hairpins all compounded by the rivers of water running across the road. Anyway, we changed tack and took a route up to the coast and the roads from San Vincente De La Barquera via Comillas (CA131 ?). Great road and lovely weather was the result.
Took in a few drinks en route…
Once out to the Picos region the scenery changed but was no less lovely, with nice roads, pretty villages and more wildlife (I’ve never seen so many hawks, eagles, vultures etc)
(Route took us via N623 and C6318)
Eventually we reached the Casa Zalama in San Pelayo and were met by Marie and English partner Graham. What a great warm welcome. Parked the bike in their gated park across from the Casa and settled in.
This is another simply fantastic place. Graham has done a lot of work over the years renovating this Casa (with help from local craftsmen) and it shows. Beautiful. And Maria’s cooking….well what can I say, just delicious, everything.
San Pelayo is a quiet village in nice rolling countryside. Quite different from the Picos area, but still lovely.
Though there were no other bikers in the Zalama the 2 nights we were there (some had just left), there was a family of 5 Australians, plus Spanish families – it made a really great mix and a good mix chatting round the large fire before evening meal. Apparently most of their business comes from Spanish tourists so that demonstrates some of the authenticity of the place. PS Graham also a has a very good selection of wines, spirits etc!
We were made to feel very welcome with Maria pointing out local places to visit and Graham being a very entertaining host.
Next day we took a trip down to Burgos, (a fantastic road down to Burgos, or should I say up – there were some great twisties on this road between San Pelayo and just after Valdenoceda (N232). After Burgos we rode upto Vitoria via the toll road (for speed), then cut west on a great road
and stopped in Artziniega for a bite and to take in some of the local sights!
…followed by another fantastic meal and lovely evening in Casa Zalama, exchanging stories of places visited during the day with the Aussies.
Next morning was our last day in Spain so after breakfast and saying our goodbyes we headed for the Canon Del Ebro (as recommended by Maria).
View from the room
We would have loved to have stayed longer here, highly recommended.
We re-rode the fantastic N232 and turned off to Dobro. At first the scenery was not so great till we caught sight of the Del Ebro valley
and then the Canyon itself. As we rounded a corner the whole thing came into view and was spectacular. There was a viewing point (knocked up from some old 2x1 !!!) overlooking the gorge and we were circled by about 10 massive Griffon Vultures, not more than 10 metres above us – I wonder if they were hoping for lunch !
Unfortunately we had a ferry to catch so we joined up with the N623 towards Santander. Fantastic ride back, generally great road surface, views, switchbacks…perfect.
Boarded the ferry again with no problems and met up with Richard, Russ and the girls again. It was nice to meet up and exchange experiences. I know you’re old hands at foreign bike trips but this was our first trip and a superbly enjoyable one at that.
So to round up…
Great people, fantastic scenery, lovely hotels, challenging roads, superb food – good times !
Sorry if it’s a bit ‘wordy’ but I had problems keeping it down to this number of words. Cheers for reading
,
Rich
Ps special thanks goes to Garmin for making the Zumo (totally invaluable)
Looking at all the threads on the website I thought that the Picos and Northern Spain would be a good introduction - great scenery, longish trip and warm
!Had a long run down to Plymouth without any problems and boarded the ferry. I must say I was impressed by the way the bike was strapped down quickly by the staff and by the boat in general - the food was great and prices were better than on the P&O NorthSea Ferries. We didn't bother with the 'fancy' restaurant on either voyage and found the grub from the normal cafe certainly good enough. Lovely comfortable cabins too - top marks for Brittany Ferries.
Next day we were ready for the off. Got a bit sweaty waiting for the doors to be opened. (one or two of you may recognise yourselves here
).
After landing in Santander we set off for the Hotel Del Oso (we booked 3 night here in with the ferry booking - a good deal).
Its easy to see why this hotel is such a popular choice with members of this website (thanks for the recommendations) – it’s a lovely hotel, great rooms and fantastic food, especially the famous stew!
Fantastic view from the room…
It was here that we also met with Tricky (see his superb trip report ) Also really nice to meet Richard, Russ and their lovely ladies with whom we had a lovely evening meal. I think Kay maybe had a bit too much wine
Which one is the real ugly brute here ? …
TBH the only criticism of the Hotel Del Oso (and the other place we stayed) was the late eating times – 9pm, it’s a bit late for us. However, we were in Spain so in a way it helps us get more into the local custom of eating late, so no complaints at all really
.Next day we went upto the Fuente De for the cable car.
Going up…
View from the cable car…
We weren’t really prepared for a long walk, and just changed to jeans and trainers but once at the top we just had to sample the views.
(if you’re reading this Tricky, you must take the cable car next time…absolutely stunning walking).
The walk took us back down to a small village (Espinama) for drinks and then a short walk back to the cable car base to get the bike (plus my Zumo which I’d mistakenly left in my helmet with the cable car operator!
).Evenings were filled with talk between GSers of what routes to try the next day and we took the long circular route of Potes to Riano (no pics of the lake, can’t compare to the excellent ones in Tricky’s thread), to Cangas De Onis and back to the Hotel.
The roads are generally OK, some potholes, gravel, cows and donkeys, but still OK….after all, we were on a GS…er right !
Fuel was OK at +/- 96p per litre.
I found it actually more relaxing riding over in Spain than here in the UK. Roads were well signposted, riding on the right felt OK from the second we left the ferry, it’s easier to wave to oncoming bikers
.Typical picos road
Road upto Cain De Valdeon
Covadonga (…to be pronounced in an Australian accent
)
Richard, Russ and the ladies had also booked for 3 nights at the Hotel Del Oso so left after 3, but we decided to stay on at the hotel, we liked it so much. We had booked 3 nights at the Del Oso, left 2 nights unbooked so we could be flexible, then 2 nights at the Casa Zalama (see later). Plus there was still plenty to see and do in the area. We had decided we weren’t going to ride all day, every day – so we spent that morning drinking and reading at the hotel, then a short ride into Potes for more drinks and a browse round in the afternoon.
Next day we were out to a little village called Camarena to walk the Garganta Del Cares. Actually there were 3 or 4 walks from near there. Can’t remember which one we did, but it was stunning…
Path is cut into the side of the gorge…
The locals cause a bit of an obstruction, buy were friendly enough…
Then rode on (yet another) superb road (Camerena to Sotres via Tielves).
Next morning it was finally time to leave the Del Oso and ride to our other pre-booked accommodation – Casa Zalama (yet again booked following recommendations from other site members...cheers guys).
Last view from the Del Oso
The weather looked good but, as so quickly in this area, soon turned very wet. We had intended taking a different road across the Picos to the Casa Zalama, but this particular road was pretty bad, with large pot holes, gravel strewn hairpins all compounded by the rivers of water running across the road. Anyway, we changed tack and took a route up to the coast and the roads from San Vincente De La Barquera via Comillas (CA131 ?). Great road and lovely weather was the result.
Took in a few drinks en route…
Once out to the Picos region the scenery changed but was no less lovely, with nice roads, pretty villages and more wildlife (I’ve never seen so many hawks, eagles, vultures etc)
(Route took us via N623 and C6318)
Eventually we reached the Casa Zalama in San Pelayo and were met by Marie and English partner Graham. What a great warm welcome. Parked the bike in their gated park across from the Casa and settled in.
This is another simply fantastic place. Graham has done a lot of work over the years renovating this Casa (with help from local craftsmen) and it shows. Beautiful. And Maria’s cooking….well what can I say, just delicious, everything.
San Pelayo is a quiet village in nice rolling countryside. Quite different from the Picos area, but still lovely.
Though there were no other bikers in the Zalama the 2 nights we were there (some had just left), there was a family of 5 Australians, plus Spanish families – it made a really great mix and a good mix chatting round the large fire before evening meal. Apparently most of their business comes from Spanish tourists so that demonstrates some of the authenticity of the place. PS Graham also a has a very good selection of wines, spirits etc!
We were made to feel very welcome with Maria pointing out local places to visit and Graham being a very entertaining host.
Next day we took a trip down to Burgos, (a fantastic road down to Burgos, or should I say up – there were some great twisties on this road between San Pelayo and just after Valdenoceda (N232). After Burgos we rode upto Vitoria via the toll road (for speed), then cut west on a great road
and stopped in Artziniega for a bite and to take in some of the local sights!
…followed by another fantastic meal and lovely evening in Casa Zalama, exchanging stories of places visited during the day with the Aussies.
Next morning was our last day in Spain so after breakfast and saying our goodbyes we headed for the Canon Del Ebro (as recommended by Maria).
View from the room
We would have loved to have stayed longer here, highly recommended.
We re-rode the fantastic N232 and turned off to Dobro. At first the scenery was not so great till we caught sight of the Del Ebro valley
and then the Canyon itself. As we rounded a corner the whole thing came into view and was spectacular. There was a viewing point (knocked up from some old 2x1 !!!) overlooking the gorge and we were circled by about 10 massive Griffon Vultures, not more than 10 metres above us – I wonder if they were hoping for lunch !
Unfortunately we had a ferry to catch so we joined up with the N623 towards Santander. Fantastic ride back, generally great road surface, views, switchbacks…perfect.
Boarded the ferry again with no problems and met up with Richard, Russ and the girls again. It was nice to meet up and exchange experiences. I know you’re old hands at foreign bike trips but this was our first trip and a superbly enjoyable one at that.
So to round up…
Great people, fantastic scenery, lovely hotels, challenging roads, superb food – good times !
Sorry if it’s a bit ‘wordy’ but I had problems keeping it down to this number of words. Cheers for reading
,Rich
Ps special thanks goes to Garmin for making the Zumo (totally invaluable)
.
