Another Paralever Bearing Thread

dicktheleg

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Ok, I've got play in my paralever bearings, it's barely perceptible but it's there.

Thought it might be FD bearing but with the wheel removed and the torque arm disconnected I can just detect it by moving the bevel box.

It is there but very minor and I wonder if it's worth trying to adjust it out now or should I leave it until it's a bit more significant.

Reason for the question is that I'm touring two up and heavily laden in Europe in September and I've no idea how quickly it's likely to get worse.

What experiences have you folks had with these bearings and the rate at which they deteriorate?

Thanks in advance.
 
Personally I would replace then especially if they have been on a bike for a time already.

I've done one set on a 25k GS and another on a 75k GS and on both bearing sets the brinelling was perceptible with the naked eye.

The job is dead easy and will only take a few hours, the bearings are about £30 each iirc.
 
If slight then adjust, quickly. If left for a while they normally get damaged.

Adjust them now and see how they go over the next three weeks. Mine have 70K miles, kept adjusted once in a while, approx every 12-18 months at the first sign of the slightest play, and no problems.
 
same problem here

heat the left adjuster locknut to break up the factory loctite. loosen the nut and completely take out the pin. clean the threads completely to get a good torque reading from clean threads. torque to 12nm(new BMW torque value) with small torque wrench. mark pin to frame so you can see if locknut turns the pin while torquing locknut to 160nm. . if threads are clean in both pin and locknut, the pin should stay the proper torque value. check for side play. ride for 30 days and check again. if play returns, i'd replace the bearings. btw, NO MORE LOCTITE! this is according to BMW.
 
This thread has jinxed my bike. Out for a ride today and the rear feels "off". When I get back home there's a small amount of slack and the swingarm creaks when I bounce up and down on it. I've stripped the para lever bearings and they won't turn due to the brinelling on the races. The previous owner has had then replaced I would say and whoever did used lm grease.....
 
This is just the sort of job I keep a torque wrench for. BTW, Loctite increases the effective torque so don't be tempted !
 
BTW, Loctite increases the effective torque so don't be tempted !

Where did you get that information from? One of the properties of loctite thread lockers is that they aren't a grease and don't affect torque values: http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf

However, it doesn't matter anyway as the factory torque settings are calculated allowing for the use of the loctite that the factory specifies you use, so feel free to be tempted if you like...
 
See Post 4.
The spec has changed & now specifically says don't use the stuff. Use Loctite at the new torque setting and the threads are likely to be overloaded.
 
But not if the spec specifically says don't use the stuff.

If a spec says don't use the stuff, it'll be because of another factor such as the breakout torque value that the fastener may be subject to or because the fastener or its vicinity may not be able to tolerate the heat required to soften the applied loctite prior to removal or some other factor but NOT because the 'on torque' value is affected.

And in any case, the factory specifically mandates the use of loctite for the paralever pinions (whether or not you think it's a good idea). So whichever way you look at it you are, with respect, talking rubbish and disseminating misleading information.
 
See Post 4.
The spec has changed & now specifically says don't use the stuff. Use Loctite at the new torque setting and the threads are likely to be overloaded.

Nice edit, I quote your original reply above.

I'd like to see the spec that says don't use loctite, rather than a quote from a bloke on a forum who says its so...

But to be honest even if the use of loctite isn't necessary (and there we agree), that wasn't my original point - it was your assertion that the use of loctite increases effective torque. Have you any references to back this up or was it some bloke on a forum again?
 
Please read what was being discussed. The new torque setting specifies NO LOCTITE. has been given for good reason.

Use it when when mandated to and don't use when it's not mandated. Simples.

BTW A fastener that can't cope with 150C from a heat gun must be made of some very strange unobtanium.
 
i got my info from chris harris on youtube. he said BMW sent him to school and said new torque value is 12nm and do NOT reapply loctite. thinking about it, common sense tells me not to use loctite. here i have an adjuster bolt held by a locking nut torqued to 160nm. why should i be afraid it will loosen with all that torque? i personally think loctite here is a bit silly.
 
Please read what was being discussed. The new torque setting specifies NO LOCTITE. has been given for good reason.

Use it when when mandated to and don't use when it's not mandated. Simples.

BTW A fastener that can't cope with 150C from a heat gun must be made of some very strange unobtanium.

Your whole 'do not use loctite' assertion comes from a second hand quote via Chris Harris's YouTube video. I've watched the video and agree with what he says - I've not been using Loctite on paralever pinions for years (after advice from Steptoe on here). But his video has somehow become gospel and people are quoting it as "BMW's specification" - show me the specification and I'll believe him, you and all the people that quote him.

But in the end that isn't the point. I originally took issue with your assertion that "loctite increases the specified torque". I've no idea where you plucked that gem from but it's plain wrong and helps no one. There are many reasons to use or not use loctite but that isn't one of them.

And yes, most fastener materials can cope with 150c (except for some plastics - loctite is used on non metal fasteners too) but the substrate into which it's screwed might not like the application of heat (paints / coatings / material etc). Have you taken a moment to think how you are going to get your fastener up to 150c? The flame / hot air gun exhaust etc is a bloody sight hotter than 150c. Think about it...
 
loctite only increases removal torque, not installation torque.

If you don't understand this, step away from the spanners.
 


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