Any body used these guys....

X21ekx

X21ekx

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Was thinking of doing a refurb on the front engine cover whilst I was off over the Christmas period and I remember reading somewhere it's worth changing the old bolts for new Stainless ones, and I was going to buy a kit from these guys... www.shawstainless.co.uk has anyone used them?? Are they any good? Full kit looks a good price £56.99 that's for all the bits and bobs
Cheers in advance
 
Chris took over the business from his dad, Keith, who was in the business since 1980 to my certain knowledge.
Gents both, & good quality fasteners.
I don't know if it still applies but the kits that were offered by Moto-Bins & Motorworks were actually from the Shaws.
 
So, are we trusting the disc and caliper bolts included in the £70 set? Definately an attractive price.
 
stainless bolt kits

BigDan said:
So, are we trusting the disc and caliper bolts included in the £70 set? Definately an attractive price.
Click to expand...

Would company take a chance on someone's life in this litigious world where they can be sued for injuries or death.Ask them in writing and keep their response for future reference.
 
BigDan said:
So, are we trusting the disc and caliper bolts included in the £70 set? Definately an attractive price.
Click to expand...
It's not recommended to use stainless for the disc rotor bolts... metal properties of those bolts are particularly important!

And if the op is set on using the stainless bolts. Make certain you use some proper anti corrosion paste on the threads before fitting. Otherwise in a year when you come to undo them...you'll be cursing yourself!

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
I wouldn't use stainless bolts for disc rotors. The discs need to float and stainless is prone to "pick up" Anyway I've never had corrosion problems on disc bolts on any bike.
 
Stainless is more "Brittle" then Steel, so will shear/snap more easily without warning in stress related areas. Whilst Steel will bend first...

For Brake components I would stick with OEM.

For all vanity components SS will be fine...
 
twizzle said:
Stainless is more "Brittle" then Steel, so will shear/snap more easily without warning in stress related areas. Whilst Steel will bend first...

For Brake components I would stick with OEM.

For all vanity components SS will be fine...
Click to expand...

That about sums it up I reckon.:thumb
 
Sgt Bilco said:
That about sums it up I reckon.:thumb
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I popped the word "Brittle" to paint a picture, Stainless is as strong as Steel in tensile terms, but the Carbon/Chromium mix makes it prone to stress related shearing rather then a nice "bend" warning ......

Well that's about all I can remember from school....140 years ago..
 
And if the op is set on using the stainless bolts. Make certain you use some proper anti corrosion paste on the threads before fitting. Otherwise in a year when you come to undo them...you'll be cursing yourself!
Click to expand...

Been there, done that! Cotswold BMW replaced my engine cover and fitted SS bolts. I queried the issue of metallurgy between the cover and the bolts and got a shrug of the shoulders. The bike was back at the dealers within nine months for another new cover due to the reaction of the SS with the cover because when the bolts were tightened they scraped through the paint to the alloy!:blast
 
Stainless is very tough try bending a sheet into a tight fold - virtually impossible on a hand folder that's perfectly happy with mild steel. There are high tensile versions check the tensile strength compared to the OEM disc rotor bolts.

The issue is electrolytic corrosion against aluminium. The aluminium oxide expands a lot from the base metal and jams the threads. The stainless screw then shears off when you try to unscrew. Drilling a sheared off stainless is a nightmare. Spark eroding is probably the only safe option. Great fun on an engine crank case.

Always use LOTS of good quality anti seize paste and take it all the way up the threads as corrosion (usually) begins under the screw heads. Avoid using the same grade stainless nut and bolt. They will gall (self weld), the threads just strip and the nut can't be unscrewed. Plain carbon steel nuts rarely gall on stainless, but they will corrode quickly.

http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/basics.htm

This states that copper is a bad idea in a marine environment - UK roads are salty. I've never had a problem with copper-greased stainless into aluminium but this says think again and avoid copper.

http://www.boatingmag.com/prevent-engine-corrosion-marine-grade-anti-seize
 
X21ekx said:
Yep! So that's me confused.com lol
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And you thought it was easy........Alloy corodes when exposed to air, steel rusts....you can lacquer/anodise/paint Alloy and you can Paint/Chrome/Plastic coat steel.... Bolt the two together with a third material "Stainless" and you can start an abusive cocktail of reactions resulting in a bolt (Stainless) that welds itself in to the alloy.... Now, Stainless can if cheap ( not high tensile) snap easier then steel bolts.... So ... Your nice shiney cheap stainless bolt happily snaps off in the thread, whilst the rusty OEM fasteners glide undone.........

Still, at least the remaining bolts look nice.....

Now, place these cheap stainless bolts into a high stress environment like brakes and suspension / steering ....no thanks I prefer OEM bolts... Same as exhuast studs I only ever use OEM ones......
 
I'll make dinner whilst awaiting technical correction from "Engineer"....:D
 
twizzle said:
I'll make dinner whilst awaiting technical correction from "Engineer"....:D
Click to expand...

He's preparing his paper as we speak. :eek:

I've been told by people better qualified than I'll ever be that SS bolts are good all round but on brakes, just stick with the OEM ones as they are designed for the job. One chap also told me that technically, they are a one use item but no one really does that. My bike is a menagerie of improvements and farkles but the brake bolts are standard OEM parts.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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