Any issues with optimate chargers and GS LC?

steadysteve

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Feb 26, 2012
Messages
2,961
Reaction score
302
Location
Lincolnshire
Just wondering if anyone has had issues with the optimate on their lc?
Plugged mine in yesterday and it came up with a red light saying reversed polarity..

The socket works okay as an outlet but doesnt want to play nicely for charging.
Never had any issues with my optimate on the 3 previous bikes it has been used on so I assume the charger itself is okay.
Cheers.
 
Did you install the fly lead, or use the accessory socket? If you used the socket, do you have a can bus optimate?
 
Never had any issues with mine but used the lead to the battery as using the Aux socket in canbus mode seemed to leave everything live
 
I've got an optimate 4 and charge via Canbus. No issues but if the battery is flat it has to come out and be charged normally. Never had a reverse polarity error - suggests positive plug was on the wrong terminal and vice versa?
 
Not had any problems with mine. Been using it for a month now in can bus settings via aux socket on dash.

sent from planet earth
 
Also have run it in normal mode to charge battery on another bike

sent from planet earth
 
Thanks for the info-- decided to backtrack and remove the recent wiring I had added to power some spotlights. Seems like this is upsetting the electrics somewhere:nenau
Not sure why as its only a couple of spurs taken from an adaptor which plugs in between the aux socket and the bike loom.

The spots are now fed from the spare feed on the right side, behind the side panel.... but there is another problem now because it keeps tripping out on the can bus. The lights come on and stay on if the switch is on, but then trip out if the switch is turned off and on again.

The lights are led, so not taking a massive current, and have a 2amp fuse which is not blowing but they still trip the can bus.
Soooooo, is it a case of the can bus being so sensitive that it trips before the fuse blows, or is the spare connector limited to 2 amps max?
Any info appreciated. Thanks
 
I can't understand, with modern battery technology, why anyone still bothers with trickle chargers. My GSA LC sits outside under a cover through the winter and starts first press of the button after several months. Particularly now that the centrifugal decompression valves on the LC mean there is less initial effort required from the starter motor.
 
Thanks for the info-- decided to backtrack and remove the recent wiring I had added to power some spotlights. Seems like this is upsetting the electrics somewhere:nenau
Not sure why as its only a couple of spurs taken from an adaptor which plugs in between the aux socket and the bike loom.

The spots are now fed from the spare feed on the right side, behind the side panel.... but there is another problem now because it keeps tripping out on the can bus. The lights come on and stay on if the switch is on, but then trip out if the switch is turned off and on again.

The lights are led, so not taking a massive current, and have a 2amp fuse which is not blowing but they still trip the can bus.
Soooooo, is it a case of the can bus being so sensitive that it trips before the fuse blows, or is the spare connector limited to 2 amps max?
Any info appreciated. Thanks

If you purchase the BMW spot lights they have to be coded to the ECU in order to work
 
I can't understand, with modern battery technology, why anyone still bothers with trickle chargers. My GSA LC sits outside under a cover through the winter and starts first press of the button after several months. Particularly now that the centrifugal decompression valves on the LC mean there is less initial effort required from the starter motor.

Mine has an alarm and tracker which, after a period of time will draw some power from the battery, and if left for that long the battery may drain to the extent that it's harder to/doesn't start, especially in winter. My dealer messed up the tracker install leaving it draining all the time rather than periodically and it drained the battery flat overnight, so it doesn't take that much.
 
If you purchase the BMW spot lights they have to be coded to the ECU in order to work

Thought that might be the case., although these are plugged into the spare socket with the bmw fly lead so not really sure whats going on-- its not as if they are plugged into the bmw spotlight socket(i assume thats the one on the nearside, behind the side panel near the headlight?) And the ecu doesnt recognise them.
Mine are durite ones that I took off my last bike. As I say, they work but dont like being switched off and on again...
Didnt want to spend another grand on bmw lights and nav 6.
Couldnt find any info on max amps for the spare socket.
 


Back
Top Bottom