Any tips for re attaching the centre stand spring (r1150gs) after overhaul?

Morpheus

Morpheus

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Hey all,

I know this job has a reputation of being a bit of a bugger. However before I give myself a hernia trying to extend a really strong spring does anyone have a suggestion how one can refit this double spring when working solo?
given I lack strength I've been wracking my brain to find a leverage based solution ... so any pointer from more experienced GSer peeps would be very welcome at this point .

:)
Sarah
 
Long screwdriver through the U on the end of the spring, end of screwdriver on the licatingblug on the stand, push screwdriver handle down, spring slides along screwdriver blade to the lug, then ‘ping’ onto the lug … if you get what I mean ., obviously with stand in the retracted position, takes seconds, mind you I’ve had years of practice :D
 
Morpheus said:
Hey all,

I know this job has a reputation of being a bit of a bugger. However before I give myself a hernia trying to extend a really strong spring does anyone have a suggestion how one can refit this double spring when working solo?
given I lack strength I've been wracking my brain to find a leverage based solution ... so any pointer from more experienced GSer peeps would be very welcome at this point .

:)
Sarah
Click to expand...
When I did mine I tied a shoelace to the spring end then made a loop with a strap and tied the shoelace to it. I then laid down and pushed with my foot in the loop to stretch the spring and guided it with my two free hands. Once you get the lengths right for foot leverage itwas easy.
 
I'm loathed to put forward this suggestion as I'm definitely a novice on these things...I have used the technique of inserting coins or washers into the spring to extend it to the required length to put it into place easily. Time consuming but simple ie bend the spring to the left insert a coin, bend the spring to the right insert a coin, repeat as required.
Install the spring(s) and then use the centre stand to experience the joy of coins dropping.
I hope this is helpful and I've not misunderstood the problem.
Karl.
 
You can use strong washers or coins in between the spring loops. This will stretch the spring sufficiently to easily remove it. Leave the coins in place and then you can easily refit it!
Karl P said:
I'm loathed to put forward this suggestion as I'm definitely a novice on these things...I have used the technique of inserting coins or washers into the spring to extend it to the required length to put it into place easily. Time consuming but simple ie bend the spring to the left insert a coin, bend the spring to the right insert a coin, repeat as required.
Install the spring(s) and then use the centre stand to experience the joy of coins dropping.
I hope this is helpful and I've not misunderstood the problem.
Karl.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks all - the spring is currently off the bike and fully compressed so the 'coinage' method won't work. I'm gonna try the big screwdriver method tomorrow and see where I get to...

This the last little bit of a winter refurb and refit of the side/centre stand combo as the side stand had snapped off... (and it was too short any ways) plus a refit of a standard end can.

so now I have nice new GSA side stand ... all bolts/pivots cleaned etc.

the bike is going to be my daily runner this year - so I feel like this is the time to do a battery check/air and fuel filters and plugs my bike is a 2000(w) so I assume single spark. How does one tell quickly?
 
Shoe lace and a ratchet strap, I usually use a paddock stand on the bike and tie the ratchet strap to the paddock stand and the other end to a shoe lace, shoe lace over the spring and away you go, other way I’ve used is wheel the bike up to a vehicle ie back wheel touching the bumper and hook the ratchet strap to the vehicle tow hitch and shoe lace on the other end over the spring.
 
What yer need is one of theseIMG_1296.jpegthese bits on the end are for fitting and removing springs under tension
IMG_1297.jpeg
 
Update!

success this morning with a steptoes method .. well a variation of.

I placed the end of the spring on the nub that is on the centre stand and then put a pry bar through the middle slot of the connecting plate at the other end.

I then placed the end of the pry bar in the circular hole at the top of the centre stand (just behind pivot) and this gave me the ideal combination pivot point, leverage and length -- it took a couple of goes but she's now back to gather.

Additionally I started her up (having been charging with a trickle charge for 48 hours, and after a bit a fiddle with the choke to get her to idle when cold she purred like a kitten (well battle worn tiger, she is 24 years old)

a few minor gas leaks for the exhaust and manifold were sorted with a quick nadge on the clamps and then......

Oil leak...

tracked it down to the bolt at the top of the near side (left when on bike or port for the sailors) cylinder just in front of/below the air flow meter and intake

I plan on topping up the oil tomorrow and doing a local run to get her up to temp and then dropping the oil for a total change (with filter)

This bolt.... it appears to simply be a case of undo, clean refit and reseal... however what is this bolt "bolting" ? what's it holding? as it just appears to be a random bolt into the top corner surface of the cylinder/block?

It is a common leak point?

The other cylinder (starboard) was a little tappet-y - but I assume thats just cold and waiting for oil to get round top end (bike was level)

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as Mr big book of Haynes is a little unclear on random bolts.

:)
Sarah
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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