Mutley
Registered user
Must be doing something wrong, found myself doing 100 on the M5 because I wasn't concentrating yesterday. It was deafening and the steering was a little vague but other than that it was fine 
Anybody swapped the swinging arm bushes and engine mounts on a tourer?
- Thread starter Rob Farmer
- Start date
were you on a gs then 
Deleted account 230523001
Registered user
Mine tooThey all do that sir.
Yep, Evos up to about 94 ish all seemed to do that. My 90 FXST did it for a while and then stopped except for a little misting. Same with my wife's 91 FXR. It used to be a lot worse if you thrashed them from cold before the barrels etc. had chance to expand.
That fits ...
... nicely with what I was told; start it, leave it for 10 mins to warm up and expand, and then ride it
... nicely with what I was told; start it, leave it for 10 mins to warm up and expand, and then ride it
Deleted account 230523001
Registered user
... nicely with what I was told; start it, leave it for 10 mins to warm up and expand, and then ride it
Indeed.....It can prolong your engine life considerably. I have witnessed what can happen if you don`t do it with Buells, and they are the same engine. They don`t like being started and ridden immediately, they like a nice long slow build up.....
So far in this thread we've got:-
1/ Dodgy engine mounts
2/ Poor lights
3/ leaking engines
4/ Strange handling because Harley didn't fit an essential engine mount
5/ low performance
6/ sensitive to tyre pressures
Any thing else to encourage any potential Harley owners
1/ Dodgy engine mounts
2/ Poor lights
3/ leaking engines
4/ Strange handling because Harley didn't fit an essential engine mount
5/ low performance
6/ sensitive to tyre pressures
Any thing else to encourage any potential Harley owners
judge
Registered user
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- Feb 24, 2002
- Messages
- 10,323
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I took it up to 80mph the other day but it wasn't a pleasant experience and now have a bubbling rear base gasket
Did you buy the wrong one Rob
Nope!
I think the V-Rods look great without anybody on board but very strange when somebody is sitting on them.
I think the V-Rods look great without anybody on board but very strange when somebody is sitting on them.
Did you buy the wrong one Rob
Bugger!!
Just got this back from Progressive -
We unfortunately do not make the touring link for your year and model bike, sorry.
Progressive Suspension
Troy Bosiljevac
Customer Service Tech
6911 Marlin Circle, La Palma, CA 90623
714-523-8700 ext: 207
Just got this back from Progressive -
We unfortunately do not make the touring link for your year and model bike, sorry.
Progressive Suspension
Troy Bosiljevac
Customer Service Tech
6911 Marlin Circle, La Palma, CA 90623
714-523-8700 ext: 207
Mutley
Registered user
A bit of scaffolding tube should do it 
Stabiliser link
Not sure of your year/model but True Track still do one for 93-08 Big Twins and Dynas 94-13.
http://www.true-track.com/
Various on eBay too, some quite cheap but look to be the same thing IYSWIM. Some stock of the Progressive link out there too (or is yours older?)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-PROGRESSIVE-TOURING-LINK-CHASSIS-STABILIZER-1993-2008-HARLEY-FLHX-FLHR-FLHT-/130868285486?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e785b902e
Seems odd that there are lots listed for 09 onwards when everyone seems to say the new frame has eliminated the "death wobble". My 05 FLHT gave me the worst moment of my biking life at 85 on the M20 on the way to a European tour; new undies required but I stayed on and it never did it (or 85) again...
Some kits for older bikes have new swing arm shaft and bearings as the original cleveblocs were rubbish (HD now use spherical bearings that should last the bike's lifetime). On rubber-mounted Big Twins check the rubber bushes on the swingarm and front of engine. Dynas can break their rear mounts. Worn wheel bearings can give the same effect too.
Sorry Neil, some of us prefer working on the bikes to polishing our tassles
A
Not sure of your year/model but True Track still do one for 93-08 Big Twins and Dynas 94-13.
http://www.true-track.com/
Various on eBay too, some quite cheap but look to be the same thing IYSWIM. Some stock of the Progressive link out there too (or is yours older?)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-PROGRESSIVE-TOURING-LINK-CHASSIS-STABILIZER-1993-2008-HARLEY-FLHX-FLHR-FLHT-/130868285486?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e785b902e
Seems odd that there are lots listed for 09 onwards when everyone seems to say the new frame has eliminated the "death wobble". My 05 FLHT gave me the worst moment of my biking life at 85 on the M20 on the way to a European tour; new undies required but I stayed on and it never did it (or 85) again...
Some kits for older bikes have new swing arm shaft and bearings as the original cleveblocs were rubbish (HD now use spherical bearings that should last the bike's lifetime). On rubber-mounted Big Twins check the rubber bushes on the swingarm and front of engine. Dynas can break their rear mounts. Worn wheel bearings can give the same effect too.
Sorry Neil, some of us prefer working on the bikes to polishing our tassles
A
from true-track site :
All riders know that the rear tire wears faster than the front. Most of this wear comes from friction. The friction comes from force applied to the tire.
What happens then is that the force acts as leverage on the swingarm and since the nearest motor mount is not until you get between the cylinders, then the drive line is allowed to move from side to side slightly.
I did not believe it made that much of a difference until I was at the 06 V-Twin show in Cincinnati and met the owner of True-Track. He had a FLH frame upside down in a press that simulated the force. I watched as the little movement at the motor mounts for the engine lead to a two inch side to side movement at the rear axle.
He had a device that is easily installed that makes a third link for the driveline. This is what Eric Beull explains in a patent for the isolated driveline that True-Track cites.
The "FALL AWAY" must be at minimum factory specification (the lock to lock sweep).
Tires: Tread (good), pressure and balance accurate.
HD models with "cleveblocks" (1980-2001) in the swing arm pivot must be replaced with solid bearings (HD changed to spherical bearings in 2002 and later Baggers). NO, NOT WITH DELRIN
("PLASTIC IS ELASTIC") as a replacement. It does not insure rigidity at this weak point. The maximum operating temperature of Delrin is 257 degrees then they go soft. The trans temp can exceed this.
you can get rod ends for peanuts from RS..but you have to know where to bolt them easily.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumatics-hydraulics-power-transmission/power-transmission-rod-ends-spherical-bearings/rod-ends/?searchTerm=spherical+bearing+10mm&sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294965164&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=Brand
All riders know that the rear tire wears faster than the front. Most of this wear comes from friction. The friction comes from force applied to the tire.
What happens then is that the force acts as leverage on the swingarm and since the nearest motor mount is not until you get between the cylinders, then the drive line is allowed to move from side to side slightly.
I did not believe it made that much of a difference until I was at the 06 V-Twin show in Cincinnati and met the owner of True-Track. He had a FLH frame upside down in a press that simulated the force. I watched as the little movement at the motor mounts for the engine lead to a two inch side to side movement at the rear axle.
He had a device that is easily installed that makes a third link for the driveline. This is what Eric Beull explains in a patent for the isolated driveline that True-Track cites.
The "FALL AWAY" must be at minimum factory specification (the lock to lock sweep).
Tires: Tread (good), pressure and balance accurate.
HD models with "cleveblocks" (1980-2001) in the swing arm pivot must be replaced with solid bearings (HD changed to spherical bearings in 2002 and later Baggers). NO, NOT WITH DELRIN
("PLASTIC IS ELASTIC") as a replacement. It does not insure rigidity at this weak point. The maximum operating temperature of Delrin is 257 degrees then they go soft. The trans temp can exceed this.
you can get rod ends for peanuts from RS..but you have to know where to bolt them easily.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumatics-hydraulics-power-transmission/power-transmission-rod-ends-spherical-bearings/rod-ends/?searchTerm=spherical+bearing+10mm&sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294965164&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=Brand
Thanks Phil,
I've sent true track an email, they do a complete kit for my bike, its not cheap but worth the effort.
I was looking into making my own linkage but to be honest I'm trying not to get into too much spanner work. I'd sooner just fit a kit and ride the bike. The whole point if buying the Harley was to be able to just ride it.
So far the to do list is:-
Front wheel bearings
Front engine mount
Either true track swinging arm kit or just new swinging arm bearings.
Sort out the steering lock
Not too bad for a 23 year old bike.
It's hard finding out what the differences are between the years and models though. I'd have expected more info than there is on the Internet. The dealers aren't too helpful. I'm getting used to hearing "it's obsolete" I guess that's why so many get broken, always wondered where all the early evos had gone.
I've sent true track an email, they do a complete kit for my bike, its not cheap but worth the effort.
I was looking into making my own linkage but to be honest I'm trying not to get into too much spanner work. I'd sooner just fit a kit and ride the bike. The whole point if buying the Harley was to be able to just ride it.
So far the to do list is:-
Front wheel bearings
Front engine mount
Either true track swinging arm kit or just new swinging arm bearings.
Sort out the steering lock
Not too bad for a 23 year old bike.
It's hard finding out what the differences are between the years and models though. I'd have expected more info than there is on the Internet. The dealers aren't too helpful. I'm getting used to hearing "it's obsolete" I guess that's why so many get broken, always wondered where all the early evos had gone.
Most Part Numbers remain consisitant, just uplifted by - A,B,C etc.... so if you ask for 123456 then you will be told "obsolete".... cos the latest P/N is 123456-C..... still fits though...... If you post on HDRCGB then they will all say the same.... "track down the official parts book for your model year" and you can work it out...... HD Microfiches only go back to 99.... so it's a challange.. but it is amazing whats out there...
http://www.fatboyzdiner.co.uk/harley_index.html
These guys seem to know their stuff ref 1340 Evo'... they seem to source a lot of parts/spares etc for HDRCGB.
I've not used them myself, Mutley will know them too... but they seem to solve a lot of supply issues for the guys on the forum.
These guys seem to know their stuff ref 1340 Evo'... they seem to source a lot of parts/spares etc for HDRCGB.
I've not used them myself, Mutley will know them too... but they seem to solve a lot of supply issues for the guys on the forum.
Apoligies if this has been posted before, but this site enables you to find the partnumber via Microfiche style look ups.
http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/OEMpartfinder.htm
http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/OEMpartfinder.htm
have a look at the rear engine rubber mounts, when they go it wallows like a pig, they are easy to replace and cheap.
I think I'm going to replace all the rubber bits as a matter of course and then see how I get on with the standard set up. I'll then be in a position to decide if it's worth going for the true track.
What I could really do with is somebody who has an electraglide taking it for a spin and giving me a second opinion.
Thanks Twizzle.
Nice to have some help and backup guys. I haven't got a clue who sells what or is any good. Much appreciated
I asked the guys outside the local Harley dealer the other week but they all seemed to have 1000 miles on 2-3 year old bikes and hadn't a clue what I was talking about.
