Anyone know how to change the oil and filter on Xcountry?

King Rat

King Rat

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Please guys, this isn't quite like just letting the oil out of the bottom and pouring new in the top like the 1150.....and I can't find where the filter lives either. I don't want to ride her anymore until I have done the oil and filter, just to be on the safe side.

Does anyone know where I can get a workshop manual from please? It doesn't have to be a full repair version - just owner maintenance one would do. Oil/filter changes. How to do the water cooling.....plug replacement and how to go about it. Just those normal, simple things.

I didn't realise a simple little single could be so complicated! :confused: It is more involved than the 1150 Adv thast's for sure.

I can't find anywhere a suggested oil change mileage - the book just says got your Motorrad dealer and they will do it for you. Very helpful.:rolleyes: Is a 6000 mile service interval sensible using semi-synthetic. Or is it more highly stressed than that?

Thanks for any help you can provide. I am a bit cautious about using her until I know where these thigs are. So have only been using the 1150 and not used her since she arrived.
 
Don't fret!

The motor is actually very under stressed. Official oil changes should be every 6000 miles, but i don't think i've ever let my bike go that far between changes.

The oil filter lives behind a round case with 3 machine screws holding it on, on the right side of the engine, just above and forward of the stator cover.

To drain the oil you need to drop the sump plug, and you will also need to drain the oil tank. If you look at the bottom of the oil tank from the sidestand side, you should see what looks like a big brake bleed nipple. find a bit of flexi rubber hose thats fits this, then loosen the nipple off until the oil stops running out.

Tighten nipple, replace sump plug, fit new filter and refill with oil. Book will tell you that the engine needs to run to get oil around it :eek:

The last time i did mine i think i cranked it over with the fuel pump disconnected to make sure there was oil where it should be before reconnecting and starting it up to check levels.

IIRC i think it takes 1.7l, but i need to check this.

HTH
 
Losttheplot said:
Don't fret!

The motor is actually very under stressed. Official oil changes should be every 6000 miles, but i don't think i've ever let my bike go that far between changes.

The oil filter lives behind a round case with 3 machine screws holding it on, on the right side of the engine, just above and forward of the stator cover.

To drain the oil you need to drop the sump plug, and you will also need to drain the oil tank. If you look at the bottom of the oil tank from the sidestand side, you should see what looks like a big brake bleed nipple. find a bit of flexi rubber hose thats fits this, then loosen the nipple off until the oil stops running out.

Tighten nipple, replace sump plug, fit new filter and refill with oil. Book will tell you that the engine needs to run to get oil around it :eek:

The last time i did mine i think i cranked it over with the fuel pump disconnected to make sure there was oil where it should be before reconnecting and starting it up to check levels.

IIRC i think it takes 1.7l, but i need to check this.

HTH
Click to expand...

Brilliant - thank you. I can go and examine the engine for thse things now and searchg for some pipe to drain the oil with.
 
Losttheplot said:
Don't fret!

The motor is actually very under stressed. Official oil changes should be every 6000 miles, but i don't think i've ever let my bike go that far between changes.

The oil filter lives behind a round case with 3 machine screws holding it on, on the right side of the engine, just above and forward of the stator cover.

To drain the oil you need to drop the sump plug, and you will also need to drain the oil tank. If you look at the bottom of the oil tank from the sidestand side, you should see what looks like a big brake bleed nipple. find a bit of flexi rubber hose thats fits this, then loosen the nipple off until the oil stops running out.

Tighten nipple, replace sump plug, fit new filter and refill with oil. Book will tell you that the engine needs to run to get oil around it :eek:

The last time i did mine i think i cranked it over with the fuel pump disconnected to make sure there was oil where it should be before reconnecting and starting it up to check levels.

IIRC i think it takes 1.7l, but i need to check this.

HTH
Click to expand...

I would think cranking it over with the plug out would also get it spinning fast enough to circulate oil through the oil pump to make sure everything was lubricated before firing it up. Although, there will be residual oil trapped between moving parts, so provided the motor isn't put under any load, a few revs won't do any harm.

Good oil at 5000 miles should be fine then.
 
Hi,
since the linky gives you the details, on 'advrider', in the thumper section bmw g650 section, most issues have been gone over many times.
Whatever you do, please do not use more than 2.3L of oil in total, a bit less is even better.
Unless you keep kranking and getting rid of all the oil, there will be some left in the system.
Too much when filling leads to all kind of issues, the least is the mess in the airfilter housing.
vbrgds
Josey
 
King Rat said:
I would think cranking it over with the plug out would also get it spinning fast enough to circulate oil through the oil pump to make sure everything was lubricated before firing it up. Although, there will be residual oil trapped between moving parts, so provided the motor isn't put under any load, a few revs won't do any harm.

Good oil at 5000 miles should be fine then.
Click to expand...

You haven't looked at what's involved in getting the plugs out yet have you :D
 
Don't be too obsesive about the oil change intervals. I've gone over 12,000 kms between changes before now and the oil was still in good condition. Mind, most of that was done in 1 long trip....if that makes any diference.
 
mikecbrxx said:
Don't be too obsesive about the oil change intervals. I've gone over 12,000 kms between changes before now and the oil was still in good condition. Mind, most of that was done in 1 long trip....if that makes any diference.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I shall use good oil, but I learned long ago that oil and filter chages are very cheap in the long run. I don't suppose going longer between changes every now and then makes any difference unless you are thrashing the nuts of it. Engine rebuilds though, they are mighty expensive - and it means the bike is off the road for a lot longer than a few hours! My philosophy has always been to take the line of least resistance, so servicing is done on the nail and thoroughly - maybe that is why my 1150 Adv has been trouble free for all it's life, while others are citing clutch failures, drive shaft bearing failures, suspension failures all in under 50,000 miles.

I alsdo ride with mechanical sympathy - my 1150 Adv has never seen 6000rpm, I tend to ride at between 3000 and 4500rpm, occassional short bursts to overtake up to 5000rpm. I don't use the clutch as a brake either, which is something the off road skills guys at the NEC were teaching - dragging the clutch to control the bike over rough ground. I did ask about it, but they just said it was part of the technique - it doesn't sit well with me, because it wears the clutch out faster.
 
I dont do many miles on my xc. 6000 miles would take me two years!! What do you lot think about changing oil/filter on a time basis rather than mileage. Thanks, oh, merry xmas.
 
Burty99 said:
I dont do many miles on my xc. 6000 miles would take me two years!! What do you lot think about changing oil/filter on a time basis rather than mileage. Thanks, oh, merry xmas.
Click to expand...

Of late I've done about 1000 miles/year on mine. Changed the oil and filter every year (I think I read somewhere once/year or every 6000 miles, whichever comes sooner. As the old saying goes, oil changes are cheap. engine rebuilds....).
 
Burty99 said:
I dont do many miles on my xc. 6000 miles would take me two years!! What do you lot think about changing oil/filter on a time basis rather than mileage. Thanks, oh, merry xmas.
Click to expand...

I would be wanting my bike to sit in good oil, not old oil full of nasty hydrocarbons and acids from combustion - engines prefer to be used you know! Think about the old Climax FWB water pump motors. Basically a better version of the Hillman Imp engine (the Imp was based on the Climax) - they have to run at 7000rpm constantly, for hour after hour. many of them are 50 or 60 years old and still going perfectly - they are fine provided they are run up on a regular basis. Sitting doing nothing after having been used is not good for them.
 
King Rat said:
Oh, am I in for a shock? Is it not similar to others, like my GS1150, where you pull the lid off and just unscrew them?
Click to expand...

In essence it is similar, but the plastics (?) and airbox need to come off first to allow yourself access to the plugs.

When changing the plugs, it's worth having a compressor and blow gun handy to clear any rubbish that may have settled around the plugs prior to their removal (which then allows the crap to drop into the cylinder).

And then while you've gone to the lengths to get into the plugs, it's not a lot more work to check the valves while your in their.

HTH

Nathan
 
H
King Rat said:
I would be wanting my bike to sit in good oil, not old oil full of nasty hydrocarbons and acids from combustion - engines prefer to be used you know! Think about the old Climax FWB water pump motors. Basically a better version of the Hillman Imp engine (the Imp was based on the Climax) - they have to run at 7000rpm constantly, for hour after hour. many of them are 50 or 60 years old and still going perfectly - they are fine provided they are run up on a regular basis. Sitting doing nothing after having been used is not good for them.
Click to expand...

If you know that, you should also be able to work out a 650 oil change :D
 
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