Anyone tried the Galfer big brake kit on their GS?

I got as far as sorting out 7.5mm front caliper spacers and a set of very low mileage 320mm r1200rt discs for my last gsa LC but never actually fitted them as the bike was still under extended warranty , may do it on the new one some time in the future.

There were a couple of reviews somewhere on line (may have been youtube ) about the galfer disc upgrades
 
If you are riding a GS LC with Brembo brakes, if so then I don't understand how you could describe the standard brakes as poor, except in the perhaps unlikely event that you are using it very hard as a race bike! Maybe there's a fault with yours - have you compared with another similar bike?

I assume the kit includes spacers to mount the standard calipers further out, so the only improvement is going to come, not from any change in calipers, but just from the greater mechanical advantage in retardation effect by working at a slightly bigger distance from the axle - I wouldn't have thought it will be a massive difference, and depending on the tyres you are using, may just have the effect of breaking traction and activating the ABS that bit sooner. Looks like the pads in the kit are different, but you could fit different pads to the existing setup if they gave a significant advantage, and might be worth trying first.
 
Cardinal said:
I’ve been struggling with poor braking - Any thought on this? 305 to 320mm diameter increase. Would it provide a worthwhile increase in braking performance?

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=36&Ct=HA&SbCt=BA_15_36_HA_50
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Nowt wrong with the brakes at all , maybe you have a problem with them on yours , worth seeing your dealer . I have done my first set of pads in 3500miles and can scrap a front tyre in 1200 miles so I'm sure they are fine. To add it reads like a bit of sales bullshit from motoworks , ...you must buy these because,,,,,,,, bollox imho
 
Thinking about this some more - the increase in braking effect I guess will be proportional to the increase in radius. If you go up from 305 mm diameter disks to 320 mm then the radius (which is half the diameter) increases by only 7.5mm. The outer edge of the area gripped by the pads will move out from approx 152.5 mm to 160 mm (ignoring the fact that the pads probably don't grip right up to the outer edge of the disk). This represents a change of only about 5%, and though I don't know if that translates linearly to an increase in braking effect, it doesn't seem that significant to me. A marginal gain at best.
 
fred_jb said:
Thinking about this some more - the increase in braking effect I guess will be proportional to the increase in radius. If you go up from 305 mm diameter disks to 320 mm then the radius (which is half the diameter) increases by only 7.5mm. The outer edge of the area gripped by the pads will move out from approx 152.5 mm to 160 mm (ignoring the fact that the pads probably don't grip right up to the outer edge of the disk). This represents a change of only about 5%, and though I don't know if that translates linearly to an increase in braking effect, it doesn't seem that significant to me. A marginal gain at best.
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Agree , boils down to how big your balls are really
 
I do a few track days a year on the bike and as my confidence has increased the brakes have come under more pressure. I now run in the intermediate group but find that by the time I finished the morning session the brake lever is coming back to the handlebar. I’ve changed fluid and pads to no effect.

I know people will suggest I buy a more appropriate bike for track work but I find it very entertaining hustling the big bus and scaring the occasional sports bike rider.

Saying that I did have a look at a KTM GT but the appalling trading price offered for my GS put me off (6.7k for a 2013 TE). Instead I plan on throwing a little bit of cash at my bike to try and get it to perform better. Suggestions welcome!
 
Sounds like a heat related issue then, if it causes a soft lever after hard use, especially if it recovers once cooled down. The lever coming back to the bar suggests that the fluid is becoming compressible which I would have thought only normally happens if either the fluid itself, or moisture it has absorbed, boils, giving gas in the system - with gas being compressible unlike most liquids. More powerful brakes, unless they run a lot cooler, are not going to help if the fluid cannot exert sufficient pressure to operate them. Is there a higher grade fluid you could use which is compatible with the seals etc?
 
Better to buy a track bike. This only going to go one way. BTW, you should use the brake as hard for as short a time as possible with gentle but fast closing and releasing of the fingers in line with the angle you are entering into. I have not had issues brakes wise with a GSA on track.

First of all try dot 5.1 brake fluid. The boiling temp is about 45 degC higher. Don't worry, it is Glycol based like dot 4. Dot 5 is a no-no as it is silicone based. Also change the fluid at least once a year after winter preferably.
 
Thanks guys - good advice on fluid - hadn’t realised that 5.1 was silicone free. I had bought 5 but was then advised it wasn’t compatible so just used the bmw stuff.

Would I need an abs flush changing to 5.1?
 
There's nothing wrong with the GS LC brakes. Cleaning the disks with a clean rag and brake cleaner after a bike wash can really improve them. The pedal travel on my rear brake is stupid. Must get it looked at.
 
Going to Galfer discs and pads of the standard size will bring a noticible difference over stock, without increasing the disc diameter.

Is it certain that the calipers will fit, if you go for 320 discs?

Al
 
Blackal said:
Going to Galfer discs and pads of the standard size will bring a noticible difference over stock, without increasing the disc diameter.

Is it certain that the calipers will fit, if you go for 320 discs?

Al
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Yes , all you do is space out the radial calipers with 7.5mm spacers and the calipers will work fine with larger discs
 
Neil W said:
Yes , all you do is space out the radial calipers with 7.5mm spacers and the calipers will work fine with larger discs
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I appreciate that, but will the wheels allow the calipers to be fitted over the disc and also be removed?

Al
 
FWIW going from the standard disc on my Husky dirt wheels to a 320 on it's SM wheels makes a HOOOOGE difference in braking power ~ I'm not sure of the dirt wheels disc size but it'll be a bigger difference to the one you're looking at Cardinal.

What doesn't change though is the ability of the front brake to overheat when I'm really going for it (and I mean really going for it); same calliper, same amount of brake fluid and bigger braking forces equals, if anything, a hotter front brake so (even if the disc has a bigger surface area to cool better)............I'm not sure if bigger discs would answer your problem?

Andres
 
Bigger discs don’t mean greater braking force, just increased mechanical advantage.

Heat input should be similar
 
Blackal said:
Bigger discs don’t mean greater braking force, just increased mechanical advantage.

Heat input should be similar
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........and the increased mech adv gives you a greater braking force? Whatever, when I apply the brake I nearly fly over the bars with the 320.......not something the dirt disc does :D

Andres
 
Outtomunch said:
........and the increased mech adv gives you a greater braking force? Whatever, when I apply the brake I nearly fly over the bars with the 320.......not something the dirt disc does :D

Andres
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Sorry - braking force, as in pressure on the disc surface.

Increase (theoretically) the disc diameter to 500mm - apply the same hydraulic pressure - you’ll probably go into orbit. No increase in heat to the disc/caliper/pads though

AL
 
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