anything else to change while gearbox off

gog

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On Saturday my R1100GS lost all drive, accompanied by a horrible whirring noise from the gearbox/clutch area. Luckily it was just up the hill from my house so turned around and coasted back home.

I think that its likely the clutch friction plate splines have failed, though it could also be gearbox as for the last few months I have had trouble downshifting.

Ordered a new sachs clutch pack. Hoping the input splines on the gearbox are OK but have been kindly donated a second M94 box just in case.

Is there anything seals or gaskets I should be changing while the bike is split that far?
 
Certainly sounds like the splines. Suggest you pull it down and report back once you've checked the main shaft splines also. Get a decent heat gun to soften the loctite on the pivot bolts. I have one plus the required socket in the toolbox if you need them.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/356358-Pulling-the-gearbox-1100RT?highlight=Clutch. Might be helpful. Some good tips from Dr Farkoff / Jaythro, Steppers and others to yours truly! Some !of the pics are expired unfortunately but most of my own are still there.
 
Seals, I wouldn't disturb them if they are oil tight…but thats me.

Ensure the clutch pushrod is straight.
If you're disconnecting the gear selector from loom…which I think you have to, make sure when refitting the plug under the tank that the fragile male pins engage correctly, go gentle as they can bend and you end up with no gear readout or start.
 
cheers chaps. peter i have read your thread previously, good stuff. ive got a mapp torch and 12mm hex socket, though not sure how to go about holding the hex to torque the 30mm lock nut up without a special tool, may see if i have a spare 30mm socket to cut.

charles i was hoping to leave the seals as ive no oil leaks currently, just wasnt sure if there was some you really should do as 'preventative maintenance'. know that when i do the clutch on the discovery, the rear main oil seal should always be done too!
 
bought one off the link gorila posted peter, thanks though. like to have the tools myself for next time since it seems like the bike is staying :D
 
I leave the seals alone unless there is any sign oil weeping or visible damage

gog said:
nothing? or has everyone finally defected to the 1200's? ;)
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I get the same feeling gog as it does seem to be getting very quiet in these parts...:confused:
 
gog said:
bought one off the link gorila posted peter, thanks though. like to have the tools myself for next time since it seems like the bike is staying :D
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OK. Would have done the same masel had I realised they were on eBay at that price!
 
would have made one peter but i could only find one 30mm socket and didn't want to cut it. won't miss the £15 for long :thumb2
 
Puffin said:
I leave the seals alone unless there is any sign oil weeping or visible damage



I get the same feeling gog as it does seem to be getting very quiet in these parts...:confused:
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Rubbish.
There are plenty of us here.
Just quiet as these girls are reliable is all.:beerjug:
Going on for 100K now had her 12 years and she's staying.
 
i have quite a few,i torque up the outer pin ,then the inner adjustable pin ,mark it at twelve with a felt tip pen,then use a 30mm std socket to tighten up the big nut to correct torque setting ,the pen mark has never ever moved ,so i know its in the correct place:thumb
 
You don't need to remove the final drive or swingarm to change a clutch. The gearbox, swingarm and final drive are all kept bolted together and pulled off as a single unit. Don't waste your time taking it all to bits.
 
Steptoe said:
You don't need to remove the final drive or swingarm to change a clutch. The gearbox, swingarm and final drive are all kept bolted together and pulled off as a single unit. Don't waste your time taking it all to bits.
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A good opportunity to look for more problems though..or maybe just to slap some lube on :rolleyes:
 
flatdog said:
Rubbish.
There are plenty of us here.
Just quiet as these girls are reliable is all.:beerjug:
Going on for 100K now had her 12 years and she's staying.
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They are 'generally' reliable..had to have a bottom end rebuild on my 1150 at around 64k miles due to worn and scoured main bearing shells and the give away noisy front drive chain chakker (thanks Mikey). Possibility that the previous owner/w****r/Yabsley had laid it down while still running then fumbled to get it upright rather than immediately switch it off thus avoiding a possible airlock in the oil pump and then the further damage to the shells caused by limited oil circulation :blast.

Anyway, she has just turned 70k is definitely a keeper. Also now have an 1100gs which I'm sorting out as a winter bike, seems to have been abused in a previous life but the engine is quiet as a mouse!
 
Steptoe said:
You don't need to remove the final drive or swingarm to change a clutch. The gearbox, swingarm and final drive are all kept bolted together and pulled off as a single unit. Don't waste your time taking it all to bits.
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aye, plan is to take it off in a oner to inspect and back on same way if all except clutch looks ok. i do have a touch of play in the rear wheel though so likely to be doing the big bearing shortly anyway, so bits will need to come apart at some point.
 
Might be worth while knocking a trolley together so you can rest the whole lot on it and pull it back in a oner? Depends how many hands you have to help I suppose?
 
i've got a proper bike ramp and several decent jacks with platforms and wheels peter, plus extra hands available if needed. i doubt they will be but someone has to make the coffee ;)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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