Are any mods available to update an '06 R1200GS?

Primalcarl

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Are there any mods or upgrades that are worth doing to a 2006 R1200gs?

Got plenty of time on my hands with this lockdown, would be interested to know what people have done to theirs and if any parts from newer models also fit?
 
I've got a 2005 and had it for 30,000 miles and the best mods I've made have been:-
A decent rear shock (I picked up a good used Nitron)
AF-XIED units(again bought used)
And a used Sargent seat.
Unfortunately all fairly costly, I paid around £800 for the lot but without doubt I've had my moneys worth.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
 
Led headlamps

Led spotlamps

Suspension refurb - rebuild

Givi airflow screen

grip puppies

aftermarket levers

Tucano urbano muffs

tablet satnav


where do you want to stop ;)
 
Wilbers suspension
MRA screen
LED headlights/indicators
Grip puppies
sergeant seat/cool cover
GSA tank fitted
fuze block fitted
 
1. check all servicing up to date
2. have shocks serviced. this will be big performance upgrade if they haven't been serviced. you could upgrade but might not be necessary if springs in right ballpark and depending on how you ride (luggage etc)
3. decent tyres
4. mudslings front and rear
5. vavle cover guards are a no brainer for if/when bike gets dropped
6. denali sound bomb mini fits in place of oem horn and is way more powerful
7. seat - i had gel pad fitted as relatively cheap and simple but helps on otherwise hard seat

Performance wise there is not a huge amount you can do. You could have the bike set up on dyno but for 100hp not really worth it. Full exhaust system may give a few hp
 
Wow, so many great suggestions!

I already have led spotlamps, a Nitron rear shock & grip puppies, hugger and fender extender.

Next I think then will be LED lights, a better seat and a Denali horn!
 
Balance the throttle bodies very carefully. The difference between about right and spot-on is significant. Other than that, all the usual servicing work to reassure yourself it's in good order then decent mudguards (I've a MudSling at the front and a Wunderlich rear inner guard), a decent screen (lots of threads on here about screens) and maybe, depending on the seat and your inseam, a set of lowered footpegs. Bling such as lights, exhausts and paintjobs are down to individual tase (or lack of).
 
Check spring rate on rear shock is correct and that it's been serviced. Nitron intervals are approx 18k miles. They will know from serial number when it was built and serviced. If in doubt prob worth having it done. But also get the front serviced. Nitron front isn't too expensive if you budget stretches to that.

as well as valve cover guards, swingarm crash bung a nobrainer. r&g is £20 and protects of bike falls on right side
 
I have a Soundbomb mini looking for a new home ;)

And a factory low seat as well
 
Sgt.Cupid said:
I've got a 2005 and had it for 30,000 miles and the best mods I've made have been:-
A decent rear shock (I picked up a good used Nitron)
AF-XIED units(again bought used)
And a used Sargent seat.
Unfortunately all fairly costly, I paid around £800 for the lot but without doubt I've had my moneys worth.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

two great ones in that list....

the Sargent seat is supposed to be the DBs … but when I rode one, if you think you're marc marques' much faster other brother.... don't get this seat it ruins the bike, you can't move around to ride it properly. An adventure seat off ebay will be dead cheap and means you can go an hour without hospital treatment

I would fully recco a new screen, either bin it totally and keep your hearing. Or buy a the z technic biggy its brilliant..... 1/3 of the noise, no real turbulence and great protection, seems a bit big and a little warm in the summer... after a year I don't notice the heat

Dunlop road smart 3 tyres and a home made fork brace at the top of the stantions. It reduces the flex between the ends of the bars and the wheel spindle doing what you asked... if ride hard u can get 8" of slop you didn't want... if you can't find it, ride much harder through high speed S bends
 
Just briefly on the throttle body balancing, how do you do it without a fan on an air cooled r1200gs? I last did it when it was significantly cooler, and had to be careful as the bike still heated up fairly quick
 
Primalcarl said:
Just briefly on the throttle body balancing, how do you do it without a fan on an air cooled r1200gs? I last did it when it was significantly cooler, and had to be careful as the bike still heated up fairly quick
Click to expand...

Whenever i've done mine i have just got on and done it without even thinking about it and, all has been fine, nothing ever has broken :thumb2

You of course, may not be happy doing that so, a couple of suggestions. Get a big fan and point it at the bike or, wait until it's below zero outside and/or blowing a gale and do it outside :thumb2
 
UturnTony said:
Whenever i've done mine i have just got on and done it without even thinking about it and, all has been fine, nothing ever has broken :thumb2

You of course, may not be happy doing that so, a couple of suggestions. Get a big fan and point it at the bike or, wait until it's below zero outside and/or blowing a gale and do it outside :thumb2
Click to expand...

I think when mine was done 10 -15 mins max was all it took,

a lot depends on the person doing the job, if theyve done it loads of time before, then it will be a relativly quick procedure.

For a first time it would be considerably longer

I had a fellow tosser do mine :thumb, made a big difference
 
Santa-2512 said:
I think when mine was done 10 -15 mins max was all it took,

a lot depends on the person doing the job, if theyve done it loads of time before, then it will be a relativly quick procedure.

For a first time it would be considerably longer

I had a fellow tosser do mine :thumb, made a big difference
Click to expand...

Yes, it's usually done in 10/15 mins. but there was an occasion it wouldn't seem to balance and i had the engine running for ages without any harm whatsoever.
It later turned out i had a bad connection into one of the coils which was causing the problem. Whilst on my last USA trip, i saw the temp. gauge go into
the red a number of times when the ambient was 45 degrees or so without any ill effects so, i just don't fret about it anymore.
 
I have often wondered if a fan on the oil cooler, as used for on radiators, would help cool the engine when stationary... ?!��
 
GSGRIFF said:
I have often wondered if a fan on the oil cooler, as used for on radiators, would help cool the engine when stationary... ?!��
Click to expand...


depends on ambient temps and how / where u ride
if stuck in London in the summer brilliant idea
if ride briskly on open roads <25C unnecessary
ride like a maniac across Europe >30C and hit traffic brilliant idea
 
botus said:
depends on ambient temps and how / where u ride
if stuck in London in the summer brilliant idea
if ride briskly on open roads <25C unnecessary
ride like a maniac across Europe >30C and hit traffic brilliant idea
Click to expand...

See post 15. R1200GS TC, 40/45C ambient, gauge in the red, no fans nothing just the bike and, nothing broke, the engine idled and pulled ok. no sight glasses popped out, no problems encountered.

Others may have had other experiences i suppose but i can only speak from experience.
 
UturnTony said:
See post 15. R1200GS TC, 40/45C ambient, gauge in the red, no fans nothing just the bike and, nothing broke, the engine idled and pulled ok. no sight glasses popped out, no problems encountered.

Others may have had other experiences i suppose but i can only speak from experience.
Click to expand...

the fact it still runs is not a sign its a great idea...
mine in Europe with their hideous fuel when its over 30C ambient, struggles to idle and behave round town, just like engines do when too hot (less happy / responsive and generally wanting a fight to do what they normally do easily).

one very hot high speed run it burnt 1 ltr of oil. (never used any before or since and its now 15k miles on from that one off down to Annecy)

fully synthetic oil can survive to some extent above 320C, other stuff will give up around 220C - whilst the sump oil temp might only be 85C, internal parts working for a living (like little end bearings / cams around the exhaust area) can easily run silly temps very rapidly.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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